Non ethanol fuel!!

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ssonb

ssonb

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We as prepared individuals have a problem ... The formulation of the new age non ethanol fuel.
The new version does not contain the anti vaporization additives that were blended in years ago.
The risk of obtaining a dose of ethanol thru non dedicated fuel pumps or dispenser hoses.
Sta-bil helps some but only use it for shorter term storage needs, like one season to two years.
Pri-G is much better but twice now in my experience the gas stored in sealed metal drums and temp controlled storage at the age of eight (8) years it has become almost non viable. If it is mixed 75/25 ( stored/fresh) can it be used as fuel again.
On the plus side any power tool left with stabilized fuel unattended for an extended time the repair is minimal to get the tool running , just drain and replace old fuel then remove carb spray cleaner make sure float needle is not stuck reassemble and fire up.
 
ssonb said:
We as prepared individuals have a problem ... The formulation of the new age non ethanol fuel.
The new version does not contain the anti vaporization additives that were blended in years ago.
The risk of obtaining a dose of ethanol thru non dedicated fuel pumps or dispenser hoses.
Sta-bil helps some but only use it for shorter term storage needs, like one season to two years.
Pri-G is much better but twice now in my experience the gas stored in sealed metal drums and temp controlled storage at the age of eight (8) years it has become almost non viable. If it is mixed 75/25 ( stored/fresh) can it be used as fuel again.
On the plus side any power tool left with stabilized fuel unattended for an extended time the repair is minimal to get the tool running , just drain and replace old fuel then remove carb spray cleaner make sure float needle is not stuck reassemble and fire up.
Click to expand...
Ethanol-polluted gas is a leftover from the Obama days, trying to fix the gasoline shortage he created:
The American Jobs Creation Act of 2004 created the Volumetric Ethanol Excise Tax Credit (VEETC) to subsidize production costs. The 2008 Farm Bill reduced the VEETC's 51-cent tax credit to 45 cents. Other measures taken by Congress to jump start ethanol production include the 2004 VEETC bill, which provided for a Small Ethanol Producer Tax Credit which gave tax credits to small ethanol producers. More recently, the Tax Relief Act, Unemployment Insurance Reauthorization Act, and Job Creation Act of 2010 extended the tax cuts allowed by VEETC from the end of 2010 to the end of 2012.
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You forgot to mention how much ethanol-polluted gas reduces your gas mileage so you actually end up spending more $/mile.:mad::
In one US test, a 2007 Chevy Tahoe FFV averaged 18.3 MPG (U.S. gallons) for gasoline and 13.5 MPG for E85, 26.5% worse than gasoline.
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I know this post is about non-ethanol gas, but anything is far better than what I call "crap-gas".
Most people have no clue what they are actually putting in their vehicle:(.
Read the label on the dampump! gaah
close-up-of-notice-on-gas-pump-stating-that-the-dispensed-news-photo-1645054337.jpg
 
I get 89 octane non ethanol gas for my lawn mowers from a fuel distributor. I have no idea of its actual chemical composition.
For my small two stroke equipment - chainsaws, earth auger, brush cutter, I buy True Fuel. I don’t use all that much of it.
 
Just had this conversation with my uncle.

In my own personal grocery getter, running no ethanol 87 octane, average mpg 35.45. Running e10 87 octane average mpg 32.25. That's approximately 10%. Non coincident that e10 has ten percent less gasoline?

Quick math for prices at the pump; if pure gas is ten percent higher price then it's a no brainer to purchase that? Not only does your car go farther and you have to refuel less frequently, but less wear on your gas cap, fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel injectors...

"pencils and scales". Old country saying that means every item counts?

Problem for me is that I must travel into Idaho to get pure gasoline. Oregon legislation is befuddled by such complex mathematics?
 
I keep 300 gallons of non ethanol premium gas in a bulk tank, which i have delivered. I use it mostly for my small engines, chainsaws, generators, boat, ATV's, snowblower's etc. This tank usually lasts for 1 year. I don't use any fuel treatment in this tank, but I do put Stabil in all my small equipment that I wont be using over winter. If I run low I have a 60 gallon transfer tank in my truck and I can get more. When I'm using my truck, F250 with a 460 V8, pulling a stock trailer or hay trailer, I'll use non ethanol premium. It gives me better fuel mpg, power and eliminates the pinging going up steep grades..
Usually around the end of September I order my winter diesel, 400 gallons of 50/50 mix of stove oil and off-road diesel. I don't treat this fuel either. It usually lasts through the winter.
 
Did anybody mention Ethanol gas WRECKS older motors and marine motors?
there was a huge stink over it wrecking boat motors recently.

https://www.pure-gas.org/
You're welcome. :)
 
There is one station in town that sells non ethanol fuel, it is way more expensive.
When they switch to winter blend fuel my mileage goes down.
Our Toyota Hybrid got 36 mpg in the summer and 23 in the winter due to winter blend fuel and the cold affecting the battery.
That's one of the reasons I sold it.
 
backlash said:
There is one station in town that sells non ethanol fuel, it is way more expensive.
When they switch to winter blend fuel my mileage goes down.
Our Toyota Hybrid got 36 mpg in the summer and 23 in the winter due to winter blend fuel and the cold affecting the battery.
That's one of the reasons I sold it.
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Down here, 'real gas' is only 5-10¢/gallon higher than crap-gas (E10).
If you have a calculator and a brain, and can calculate miles/gallon, cents/gallon, and cents/mile, you will find that the real-gas is actually cheaper. :thumbs:
I do not buy the cheap gas, but the Mrs does sometimes.:(
If I'm in her car and she needs a fill up, I offer to pay for it at the Exxon station and she says yes!😍
 
Tim Horton said:
There is a woman small engine mechanic that does a lot of you tube videos about fuel, fuel additives, storage, and other fuel issues.. I have used some of her small engine info to good use a time or two..

https://chickanic.com/
example.....
Click to expand...

thanks, Tim.
I have subscribed to her videos. I had never heard of her before you pointed her out.
 
I have been mistaken...I always thought gas was good for about two years max nowdays. and diesel can grow stuff as well in a couple of years. I still buy gas every fall and now I have a old 3/4 ton chevy that they took the 454 out of and installed a carberatored 350 in so I can experiment running some old/new gas mix. I mainly want enough gas to run my rototiller, occasional generator and 4 wheeler for a year or so while things sort themselves out after the crash.
 
Bad gasoline.....
A number of years ago I was given a whole bunch of gas can from a barn clean out project.. There must have been 20 or more total.. Most were 5 gallon size with several smaller ones.. Most were plastic with some being metal and some very old style metal cans.. About 6-8 containers were metal or plastic outboard boat motor tanks..

All the containers had gas in them, with several being full.. I mixed all the gas together in several of the better containers and dyed it a very light blue with some old 2 stroke motor oil mix.. I let it settle a week or so and siphoned it off 1 gallon at a time into plastic milk bottles.. The milk bottles when held to the sun you could see any water or other contaminants that inadvertently siphoned off..

Short story.. I salvaged about 15-20 gallons of gas I used in my old pickup truck a little at a time.. I would add 2-3 gallon of old gas to half a tank, then fill to the brim with fresh gas.. By letting it settle and siphoning carefully I only had about a half gallon of bad fuel, water, and crud to dispose of.. I threw away many of the old containers.. Sold some containers with the boat motor tanks selling quite well.. This project took most of the summer, but at the price of gas then I saved fuel money and made money on this little project..
 
Okay, I'm going to beat a dead horse...
I am trying to figure out how to protect my small motors (generator, snow blower, lawn mower, pressure washer) when they are not in use. I have had several seasons where the motors sat for too long and when I needed them the carburetor was corroded up from the E15-fuel.

Locally I don't see anyone locally who sells non-ethanol pump gas, but Home Depot/Lowes both sell a non-ethanol gasoline in 1 gallon cans for about $24 a gallon.

So my thinking is that if I run a little of the pure gas through the motors at the start and end of the season it will clean out the e15 and keep the carburetors in usable condition for the next season.

Does anyone have any feedback on this line of thinking?
I am not in the mindset to be changing carburetors every couple of years and am looking for a low labor solution.
 
I've never tried that option, nor the canned non E fuel. But your logic sounds reasonable. I would run them out of E85, then run 8-12oz or so of the 100% thru the engine.

We can get 100% at many stations around here. I store 50 gallons and rotate it yearly. Just finished using last years purchase and gotta find time to refill my cans. Already got over half refilled.
 
Bacpacker said:
I've never tried that option, nor the canned non E fuel. But your logic sounds reasonable. I would run them out of E85, then run 8-12oz or so of the 100% thru the engine.

We can get 100% at many stations around here. I store 50 gallons and rotate it yearly. Just finished using last years purchase and gotta find time to refill my cans. Already got over half refilled.
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Would you suggest adding Sta-Bil or something like that to the non-ethanol fuel, or just go with the pure gas fuel?
 
If you have a pastic gas tank on your device run a the gas out of it. look for a drain on the carburator and drain the last bit out of there. Totally empty is the way to store them if they will be shut down for a period of time. If you have a metal fuel tank rust can be a problem with a dry tank. so put something in there to exclude the air. either by spraying some of the product the marine industry uses to fog their engines in the fall or fill the steel tank with that expensive non ethenol fuel.
Stihl promotes their special gas and says to leave it in the tank and carb and to not add anything.
I have cleaned a lot of carbs in the fall and spring for customers after they sat with stable in them.

Or take charge and buy one of these then you can clean everybodys carbs and your diamonds. I used one for years then moved to the larger size.
https://www.harborfreight.com/25-liter-ultrasonic-cleaner-63256.html
 
UrbanHunter said:
Okay, I'm going to beat a dead horse...
I am trying to figure out how to protect my small motors (generator, snow blower, lawn mower, pressure washer) when they are not in use. I have had several seasons where the motors sat for too long and when I needed them the carburetor was corroded up from the E15-fuel.

Locally I don't see anyone locally who sells non-ethanol pump gas, but Home Depot/Lowes both sell a non-ethanol gasoline in 1 gallon cans for about $24 a gallon.

So my thinking is that if I run a little of the pure gas through the motors at the start and end of the season it will clean out the e15 and keep the carburetors in usable condition for the next season.

Does anyone have any feedback on this line of thinking?
I am not in the mindset to be changing carburetors every couple of years and am looking for a low labor solution.
Click to expand...
Just saw a video on long term storage of small engines.

1) empty tank
2) run engine to finish all fuel in lines
3) disconnect fuel line from shutoff valve
4) feed small amount of automatic transmision fluid
5) crank engine to get ATF into carb.

Done!

Should keep for years

When using it for first time which normal gas. There will be a puff of smoke from the ATF but should run ok after that.

Ben
 
There is a you tube poster called ...Chickanic.. who has, had a small engine repair business... She has done a number of fuel related videos..

Short story is she recommends using a Stabil type product.. But more important to drain the fuel tank and carb bowl before storage.. On a couple small engines I replaced the fuel line with a longer line to include a small plastic pancake type filter in an easy to access position.. This let me drain the tank and carb the best I could.. Knock on wood... It seemed to help a lot..

Here is one related video..

-- -- --
Another good info source I have benefitted from...
 
Bacpacker said:
I use Stabil in mine. Not sure about the canned fuel. Wouldn't hurt it, but how long will you store it? 6 months or less I probably wouldn't bother
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I have used non ethanol added fuel with Stable that has been stored for up to 5 years and it still contains butane and runs great in any of our small engines. The big thing is to never use ethanol added fuels at all in any small engine unless the carb gaskets and float valve tip is made out of Nitrile, ethanol ruins rubber gaskets and fuel lines. I only run non ethanol fuel in our small engines, generators, weed eaters, lawn mowers and chain saws.
 
On jet skis, I pull the fuel line from the carb and run them until they stall. I pull the choke to get them to run again on whatever residue is in the carb. Then I spray a mix of gas and way too much oil in the carb throat and run it on that for just a little bit (oils up the crankcase for winter).
 
Aerindel said:
No choice here. Only one place I know that sells non-ethonal gas, its 100 mile round trip and its $.50 a more per gallon.
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a bargain if you don't or aren't able to clean your own carbs on small gas powered units. Around here it is $100 per hour or even more by flat rate to have a shop work on stuff. I have about 10 gas engined things that I store either for the summer or winter. We are lucky here in montana because they switch to a winter mix gas so it will start and run at -40. This also seems to have more aromatics so it keeps for two years in a sealed steel drum.
 
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