My reloading method for straight-wall cartridges:
Note: I use fine grain double base powders. They meter much better through a volume measure than stick or flake powders. If you use stick or flake powders you may have to weigh each powder charge every time. Get the best scale you can (+/- 0.01 grain) to eliminate variations in powder charges.
*For new cases the first time and range brass the first time. It is not necessary to do this after the first time.
1. carefully examine the brass for defects wiping it down as you do
2. tumble/clean brass
3. carefully examine the brass for defects wiping it down as you do
4. lubricate the body and inside of neck – (you can skip the lube when using carbide dies)
5. full length size the case and remove primer
6. ream the primer pockets to uniform size and depth*
7. remove burrs on the inside of flash holes*
8. trim the case to the desired length (I use the maximum case length that fits the chamber but most use the "trim to" size)
9. chamfer the neck inside and out to remove any burrs
10. carefully inspect the brass, clean out the flash hole if necessary, weigh the cases and select those that are +/- 2 grains from the median weight. (set the others aside for plinking or general shooting when accuracy is not important)*
11. expand the case mouth just enough that a bullet will start into the case.
12. prime the brass without touching the primers (I use the RCBS hand primer for this)
13. set all the cases in the reloading block neck up
14. Set the scale to the weight of powder for the load you will use
15. adjust your measure to throw exactly that amount
16. readjust your scale to ten times the weight of powder for the load you will use
17. throw ten charges into the pan from your measure and weigh it (your scale can vary 0.1 grain for each charge weighed - throwing 10 charges removes most of that variance)
18. adjust the powder measure so it throws ten charges to the exact weight of 10 times your desired weight (This adjustment gets you closer to the actual weight per throw)
19. throw a single charge and weigh it - if it is right then continue - if not then check it with ten charges again and adjust the measure accordingly(if your charge is within 0.1 of the desired weight your thrown charge is likely more accurate than the scale)
20. throw your charges into the cases in the block
21. when all the cartridges have powder in them inspect the level between the cases to make sure that they are all at the same level. Any high or low ones have to be emptied and recharged.
22. seat the bullets in the cases by seating them half way down and then turning them 180 degrees and finish the seating process.
23. crimp the case as needed - taper crimp to remove the bell only for semi-autos and heavier roll crimps for magnums
24. pack the cartridges into the box and label them with the date, load information and caliber
Keep records of ALL the loads you try. The ones that don't work need to be recorded so you don't keep trying that load again.
I keep record of my load workups, The reloads that work best go into a three ring binder, into my reloading database and are backed up on two computers.
I have two record forms, a sample target and a ballistic / trajectory print out that is corrected with actual shooting at each range. I keep the chronograph data in electronic and hard copy.
Having reloaded for several decades I have my favorite loads in one binder with sample target and trajectory sheet and then complete records for each caliber in a caliber specific binder.
Do not over expand the case mouth - it will cause cracks in the neck. All you need is enough bell that the bullet barely rests inside the mouth - not down inside it.
on crimping the case - most semi-autos use the mouth of the case to headspace. too much crimp will not only cause mis-fires but it can cause dangerous over-pressure due to the step in the chamber at that point. Magnum and cartridges that are used in tubular magazines may need a heavy crimp to keep the bullets firmly in the case during recoil and under the spring pressure of the magazine.
Always follow the load information in the book. If you change ANY component reduce your load and work up. The only exception to this is if you use a longer overall cartridge length - DO NOT REDUCE CHARGES when you allow more room for the powder. That is a recipe for disaster, especially in bottle-neck cartridges.
Speer, Sierra, Hodgdon, Lyman and Hornady have safe, reliable, data - you won't find it on so-and-so's web page.