Apple Trees In North Central Texas

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I live in far north central Texas, south of Wichita Falls, and I'd like to have some apple/pear/apricot trees. Probably 6 apple, 2 pear, and 2 apricot.

Can anyone give me advice on:

-- Tree spacing (they will all be in a 1-acre section of a 2 acre pasture with full sun)
-- Breeds/varieties ( i like honeycrisp apples, but I know they don't do so well in TX)
-- Planting time /size of new trees
-- Hole depth, planting technique, watering requirements, etc.
-- Protection from sheep/goats/donkey

The ground here is absolute murder. Sandy clay about 6-12" down is hard sandstone like a concrete slab. I'll have to have a backhoe dig the holes. Post oaks are the primary tree here, my place is densely wooded with them (except the pasture of course).

Thanks :)
 
Personally, I'd go to the local farm supply stores and ask around about folks who have apples, pears etc.

Then go talk to them. I'd drive right up in their yard and ask them about their trees. Might take talking to more than 1 or 2 people.

The point being... they've grown fruit and can give you pro's and con's.

I used to have 200 peach trees. More than once someone stopped and asked me about growing fruit here. I didn't mind a bit, it made perfect sense. If you want to know how to grow something where you live ask someone who's already doing it.
 
Alaska is too cold for apples. Crabapple does well here so we buy apple trees that have been grafted to crabapple rootstock. I'm not suggesting crabapple rootstock is your answer. I'm suggesting that you might be looking for a work around.
 
Virtually all of the fruit trees I have planted called for 20' apart with like trees planted next each other to make it easier for cross pollination.

The planting instructions generally talk about the hole being determined by the size of the root balls.

I have made the mistake of planting trees with protecting them. As a result I have a dwarf crab apple tree that the deer destroyer the tree above the graft. I have crafted fences from 4' wire fabric around each tree. Worked good until I removed the fencing to early and the deer nearly girdled the trees cleaning the velvet from their horns. This year I am going with the plastic tube/sleeves you may have seen along highways were they have planted young trees.

I am in SW PA so can't talk about if apple trees will work for your area. Peaches were not happy with me. Apples, pears, Cherry have survived my crude hand.

You will also have to learn about pruning once they start going.

If you plant in spring plan on watering very regularly. Planting in fall you may get away with less watering.

Nuff for now.

Ben
 
I planted my apple trees every 10'OC. The next row was 10' down and shifted 5'. The gal that I got the trees from helped me plant them. She is a botanist with the State and her family has apple orchards.
 
My soil is pure clay. When I plant my fruit trees, I add lots of compost and peat moss to the hole and work it in. I have planted dwarfs and semi-dwarfs. Mine are not in a row, so spacing was not a big concern for me.
 
joel said:
Compost & animal manure, wood chips is the best way to keep soil loose.
https://www.centuryfarmorchards.com/
Also soil test & extension agent.
Click to expand...
I would like to make the above statement clear.
Call the agent & ask him/her what they would do.
DO NOT compost your Extension agent, the state police frown on that!
 
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