Building Queen size Platform Bed (Project #7)

[zannej]

This one is not urgent, but since my shoulder/arm is still recovering from injury & I haven't been able to be as productive as I've wanted, I have been in planning stages. I liked the upholstered bed frame from the View Along the Way blog but I wanted to be able to take the bed frame apart for transport. I then saw upholstered bed plans from Ana White. She's encouraged me to share the end product/plans on her site.
I currently have a regular cheap low bed rail with box spring that is collapsing. Mattress won't stay put & is hanging over the edge about 18". I want a taller frame that will not collapse & will not let my 10" memory foam mattress slide. Since I'm clumsy & bump in to things a lot, I want the frame to be padded.
I shopped based on product availability & price in my area. I mostly went with Lowes so I can get military discount.
My supply list:
LUMBER

• Three 1x8x8' boards for the upholstered outer sides & foot @ $10.86ea
• Five 1x6x10' boards cut in half for large slats @ $11.74ea (not sure why they are more expensive)
• One 2x6x10' board that will be cut in half for foot and head of the frame @ $11.53ea (the 8' ones will be cut longer so 10' can be cut a little shorter)
• Three 2x6x8' boards for sides of support frame & leg blocks @ $8.92ea
• Five 1x2x10' boards @ $3.68ea cut in half for filler slats

HARDWARE

• Four Simpson Strong Tie #A35 18-gauge Steel Framing Angles @ $0.48ea for vertical corners of main frame
• Four Everbilt #12274 Heavy-Duty Corner Brace (screws included) @ $12.84 for 8-pack for connection of frame corners to leg blocks (I can use spares for other projects)
• Two Simpson Strong Tie #LUS26Z 18-gauge 2x6 Joist Hangers @ $1.08ea to hang center support board
• Two Simpson Strong Tie #A3 18-gauge Steel Framing Angle @ $0.48ea for connecting center board to center leg block
• Black & Gold Tapered/Angled 20cm furniture leg @ $28.99 less 5% coupon for 4-pack w/ screws (I am still exploring other leg options as there are numerous ones of same style & size)
• One Derilla Adjustable Center Bed Leg @ $13.99ea for center support (best bang for my $ I could find- Need to figure out what sort of screws to use to hold it in place as I won't be using the bolts )
• Simpson Strong Tie #SD9112R100 #9 hex head wood screws @ $10.98 for 100 to secure Strong Tie hangers & braces
• Power Pro #8 2" Wood Screws @ $5.98 for 50 + star screwdriver bit to secure outside upholstered boards to frame (not pictured)
• One Pack Hillman Nylon Spacers @ $0.98 for 2-pack for spacing the slats- they can be re-used for each slat spacing and removed once slats are secured (not pictured)
• One Hillman 1/2" x 48" Double Face Tape @ $3.18 to adhere slats to frame
• Unspecified upholstery staples of undetermined quantity (need to figure out what the best stapler is & what staples to use)

ADDITIONAL MATERIALS

• Three Yards of undetermined black fabric (must be pet resistant) that is at least 54" wide- cut in to strips of 10" to 12" wide to wrap around batting on 1x8s
• One bag of PolyFil Extra Loft 90"x108" Batting @ $12.97ea to wrap around the 1x8s as padding (may use more than one layer depending on how cushy I want it & can use the leftovers for other projects)
• Three Yards of RTC 52"W Unbleached Muslin Fabric @ $2.97 per yard (so $8.91) to wrap around batting under fabric
• One Anti-Slip Grip Pad @ $18.99ea to go over slats to keep mattress from sliding

Product photos of legs

Build Plan

1. Purchase Materials (obviously)
2. Cut lumber to size & sand it smooth (details later- may get 10' pieces cut at store)
3. Dry fit frame & trim & chamfer/blunt sharp corners/edges & drill holes for screws
4. Wrap batting & muslin over top & bottom of 1x8 trim but cut batting short to not intersect joint & secure with clamps & or tape & staple
5. Wrap upholstery fabric over muslin + batting and overlap a bit more & wrap around sides carefully to not leave creases
6. Assemble 2x6 frame using braces then attach joist hangers & attach center frame board
7. Attach 2x6 scrap blocks for legs, then attach legs
8. Clamp upholstered sides to frame & screw in place
9. Dry fit slats using spacers to determine exact positioning & attach sticky tape to underside of slats to secure to frame- move spacers between each slat & remove when all are placed
10. Stretch anti-slip mat over slats
11. Attach headboard (not sure if additional hardware is necessary- might have to drill appropriate size hole & use bolts & nuts)
12. Place mattress & pillows & jump on the bed

More details in next post to avoid going over word limit

 

[Peanut]

In case it's something you haven't considered yet... if you have just ignore...

I got a new bed couple of summers ago. These days they've done away with box springs and metal platforms are cheap. I did the rough math on your parts list... approx... $200. Then you have to build it and pad it.

The metal platforms I priced tonight were from $65 to $170, and you don't have to build them. They are easy to fold up and pack if you have to move. They come in many styles and colors.

You can order foam in various thicknesses 1 inch, 2 inch ect. and in various lenghts x widths from amerzon and other internet retailers. Foam is super cheap.

Just glue the foam to the metal parts you might bang into... then glue cloth to the foam, again, super cheap.

For my bed platform I bought a 2ftx2ft x 2 inch thick seat cushion foam at Wally's for $2. I used a box cutter to cut it into strips then used tiny electrical tie wraps to attach foam around the bottom of the platform legs where I might bang my toes. Problem solved! With a comforter on my bed I can't see the legs or foam.

Anyway, buying an inexpensive metal frame that's easy to fold up and move... spend less than $20 for foam and a little cloth seems a lot simpler and more convenient than building one from scratch.

These 3 photo's are platforms I saw on the amerzot website tonight. The most expensive was $130.

 

[Peanut]

Took me a while to find it... picture of the legs of my bed platform with foam to protect my toes! Again, with a comforter on my bed the legs and foam can't be seen...

Also, my platform is like the first photo, comes apart into 2 halves. Each half can then be folded up. I think I paid $110 plus $2 for foam, a few pennies for electrical tie wraps.

One more bit... the top of the metal platform is a tiny bit smaller than the mattress, less than 1/2inch smaller. In almost 2 years I have never banged my knee or leg into the metal platform, only the mattress. It has never been an issue.

 

[zannej]

More details:
I will be re-using my existing headboard from the Ashley Catiline bedroom set made in the 90s. (Note to self- find that Halloween rat figure)

Cut List & Assembly Details:
A= Cut two 2x6x8' boards to 80" (6'8")
B= Cut one 2x6x10' board to 57" (4'9")
C= Cut one 2x6x8' board to 77" (6'5")
D= Cut two 1x8x8' boards to 80" (6'8")
E= Cut one 1x8x8' board to 61.5" (6'1-1/2")
F= Cut ~19" scrap from a 2x6 board cut to 77" in to three 5.5" chunks & Cut ~16" scraps from a 2x6 board cut to 80 in to two 5.5" chunks
G= Cut five 1x6x10' boards to 60" (5')
H= Cut five 1x2x10' boards to 60" (5')
I= Strong Tie A35 braces (large)
J= Strong Tie Joist Hangers
K= Strong Tie A34 braces (small)
L= Strong Tie 1-1/2" hex head screws
M= Everbilt corner braces
N= Tapered Legs
O= Adjustable center leg
P= Everbilt Screws
Q= Self tapping 2" screws
R= Screws for tapered legs
S= Screws for center leg (UNDETERMINED)
T= Cut 2/3 of batting in to two 3yd strips
U= Cut 1/3 of batting in to one ~2yd strip
V= Cut 2/3 of muslin in to two 3yd strips
W= cut 1/3 of muslin in to one ~2yd strip
X= Cut 2/3 of upholstery fabric in to two 3yd strips
Y= Cut 1/3 of upholstery fabric in to one ~1yd strip
Z= Upholstery Staples

Attach A (sides) to B (ends) using I (large angle brace) & L (hex head screws)
Attach C (center) to J (joist hanger) with L
Attach four of F (blocks) to underside of corners of A & B using M (everbilt brace), P (everbilt screws, and Q (self tapping in outside corners)
Attach one F (block) to middle underside of C (center 2x6) using K (small angle brace) and L (hex screws)
Attach N (tapered legs) to F (on 4 corners) using R (included screws)
Attach O (center leg) to F (center) using S (screws)
Attach T (batting), V (muslin), and X (fabric) to D (side 1x8s) with Z (staples)
Attach U (batting) W (muslin), and Y (fabric) to E (end 1x8) with Z (staples)
Attach D to A with Q
Attach E to B with Q
Place G and H staggered over A and secure with double sided tape

Consider using thin clear double sided tape for temporarily securing wood pieces before screwing them together.

Frame with angle braces & joist hanger

Wide shot showing all braces

Top view of slats on frame with headboard attached (I didn't bother to draw it out in detail or get measurements right)

End of the bed view (the foot board of the 1x8 overlaps the sides, but on the 2x6 frame the sides overlap the foot & head)

Side view of the bed frame (1x8s overhang top and bottom by 1/2")

Bottom view with center leg in perpendicular position (might have to go with diagonal or parallel depending on screw positions)

Close up detail of corner braces

Center leg parallel to center board

Center leg perpendicular to center board

(I may have used foot and leg interchangeably but I'm too lazy to go check)

Questions:

1. Should the center brace have the support/attachment part run parallel, perpendicular, or at a 45° to the center board? (I want to get the best support but also need to make sure there is no conflict with screws from braces)
2. Any fabric suggestions (I want something black, pet resistant, and easy to clean but at an affordable price)
3. Any other ideas, thoughts, or suggestions? (like what screws to use for things?

 

[zannej]

Took me a while to find it... picture of the legs of my bed platform with foam to protect my toes! Again, with a comforter on my bed the legs and foam can't be seen...

Also, my platform is like the first photo, comes apart into 2 halves. Each half can then be folded up. I think I paid $110 plus $2 for foam, a few pennies for electrical tie wraps.

One more bit... the top of the metal platform is a tiny bit smaller than the mattress, less than 1/2inch smaller. In almost 2 years I have never bang my knee or leg into the metal platform, only the mattress. It has never been an issue.

View attachment 63999

Thanks for the suggestions Peanut. I considered the metal frames & searched through them. Your suggestion made me think of the idea of spraying pool noodles black with fabric paint & attaching them to the frame. It's not my toes I'm worried about so much as my shins.
Reasons why I ruled out metal frames: not tall enough, wouldn't stop the mattress from slipping off, wouldn't support memory foam well (due to slat spacing), & could not attach to my headboard (I asked sellers about it & they said there was no way to attach-- that second image you showed in the post before this one was one of the ones I liked & considered but wouldn't work for my situation). With the store bought ones it can be hit or miss. You never know if holes are machined properly, if metal is welded properly, if it's going to hold up to my weight, etc.
Even though it costs a lot, I would like to have something I built myself and that I know is sturdy. I would have the satisfaction of having built it & also have more ability to customize it. When you compare the price of this to some of the crappy mdf/particle board bed frames out there, it's still cheaper.
From an aesthetic perspective, I also want something that matches the rest of my room's decor (which is why I really like the legs I picked for it). My original plans for bed frames was *much* more ambitious. It included storage shelves, drawers, and a hydrolic lift to look under the mattress/base the way you lift the cover on a pickup truck bed.

I've been saving my $ up and haven't spent my stimulus check yet. After getting my brother's cats neutered, I want to buy lumber and build a few things. I just wish I knew whether prices will continue to go up or if there is a chance they might go back down again. Plywood sheets made from the lumber mill in town cost $96 a sheet and there's 10.45% tax on it.

Tax is another thing for me to factor in. Military discount from Lowes tends to knock the price down enough that sales tax isn't so bad. I need to find out if they give discounts for damaged stuff and if that discount is more than military discount.

 

[Weedygarden]

I then saw upholstered bed plans from Ana White. She's encouraged me to share the end product/plans on her site.

I have watched many videos Ana White has made. She has some great plans for many practical pieces of furniture and fixtures. I have not made furniture or cabinets lately, but I appreciate that her work has encouraged many to build and to expand their skills and knowledge. She has an encouraging husband, which is important as well.

 

[Peanut]

I have absolutely no issue with my mattress sliding on my metal platform. Nothing but gravity holds it in place. It doesn't move unless I move it when changing sheets.

But, out of curiosity I looked into the issue. There seems to be about a dozen viable methods for securing a memory foam mattress including velcro, carpet tape, various types mats, even safety pins with old suspenders.

Here are a few websites that go into the details of these methods.

https://www.memoryfoamtalk.com/how-to-keep-mattress-topper-from-sliding/
https://sleep.report/how-to-keep-mattress-from-sliding/
https://bedperfect.com/keep-mattress-sliding/

 

[zannej]

Thanks, Peanut. I guess I'd just prefer a different bed frame that is taller but I would prefer wood instead of metal. I want an excuse to use my power tools on something I believe I can manage. Even if at some point down the line I decide I want to change headboards, I'd like to have a nice bed frame that is not made of particle board or metal. It's a personal preference thing. I will see if any of those non-sliding methods work in the meantime though.

Weedygarden, I love how she walks the viewers through it, talks about mistakes she made, and is so encouraging. I hope her kids grow up to be interested in building stuff as well.

Part of the reason I want to do this is to be able to build something practical. I used to build some things with my dad and one of my dearest late friends was a great carpenter (not by trade, but by hobby). He once made an old-fashioned spindle (big wheel with spokes and hole shebang) using old wood & hand tools. He gave it to his niece. On a lark she took it to have it appraised and the appraiser thought it was an antique with remarkable craftsmanship. He was shocked when she told him "My uncle made this last week." LOL. Now that I think about it, I vaguely remember an old census record showing that one of my ancestors (on my father's side) was employed as a box maker.

 

[Spikedriver]

@zannej my brother did something you might consider. When his queen waterbed sprang a leak, he threw away the waterbed bladder and put a queen size regular mattress in the frame. Already padded and upholstered and at the right height.

I know you're looking forward to building this project, and I don't want to rain on that parade. But I bet you can find somebody looking to get rid of a waterbed dirt cheap, and then figure out how to use your existing headboard...

 

[zannej]

Thanks for the Suggestion Spikedriver. Man, I wish I'd had room for my late friend's old waterbed. It had a custom storage headboard & was very cool-- but I believe it was King size. I only remember it because when we were kids, my brother punctured the mattress somehow (he was pretty little). Fortunately, the friend wasn't mad. He knew it wasn't malicious & my brother was too young to understand that he broke it. He & his wife were very patient with other people's kids. My parents offered to pay for a replacement, but he told them not to worry about it. Come to think of it, I think he built that bed frame. I really miss him. If he were alive today he'd probably help me build it. Even if he couldn't stand or do any of the heavy lifting anymore, he could walk me through it.

I just checked Marketplace & found nada in my area.