Car inverter

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bkt

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Apologies if this isn't the right forum - move it where ever it's appropriate.

What would you folks recommend for a 110/120v power inverter for a car with a 15A fuse on a power plug (cigarette lighter)? I'm not looking to run a microwave and my daughter in law's hair dryer at the same time, but I will be doing somewhat more than charging a cell phone.

I'm looking for make/model. What brands are good, which should I stay away from?
 
We bought a small unit that plugs directly into the power plug, very low power but has USB ports for charging cell phones. I suggest doing some research on line and see if you can find some info on getting the best ones. We got ours at a local membership store called Bi-Mart but Best Buy has them as well and even the large supplier we bought our standby solar system inverter has a few that are from 100 watts to 180 watts that plug in to power outlet/cigarette lighter sockets, that's at www.donrowe.com. .
 
I agree with Viking. There are special set ups for cell phone chargers for cars. Probably the best ones to purchase are from the store that sells the phone you have. I broke one on a trip last summer and bought a cheap one at a quick gas store. It came apart when I pulled it out of my phone.

I purchased 3 pieces a couple weeks ago to charge a phone. I needed something for my overnight bag and something in my car. They are not one piece. The part that goes into the lighter is one part, with a USB that plugs into that. For the wall outlet, it is a separate piece with USB connection. I got all 3 of these at my local ACE hardware.

Now to the car inverter: a car inverter can be attached to a car battery and I knew someone who had one several decades ago. It would be an outstanding prep for any of us to have. To have an outlet in your car that is powered by your car battery could have many uses. I could see a crockpot cooking while driving down the road. There are endless possibilities. The person I knew who had the inverter purchased a kit from Heathkit many years ago. I don't think they are still in business and I wonder if anyone else sells an inverter for a car, outside of the lighter.
 
I recommend that you go straight to the battery. The cigarette lighter socket severely limits the amperage that you can use. No matter which inverter you have it will be limited by the socket currently in your vehicle. I'd hook to the battery, install a fuse or breaker, mount the inverter wherever it was convenient, and run your 120V line to a convenient location, or two.

If all you want is 50W or 100W then you're fine with the cigarette lighter. Somewhere around 150W you will top out on the capacity of the lighter socket, even the I would worry about extended use.
 
I keep one of these In my car and truck. just clip to the battery when needed or could hook permanent with fuse. Never had a problem with them.
66817_W3.jpg


https://www.harborfreight.com/750-watt-continuous-1500-watt-peak-power-inverter-66817.html

Jim
I left one exactly like that in my service vehicle when I retired.
Used it for years.
But the next guy would need it more than me:).
For the low-power ones that will be left 'always-on', research the fan.
Some fans come on wide-open when the unit is turned on, others only when it is under load.
It makes a big difference if it is going to be a permanent installation.
Some can be left on continuous and draw almost no power, others, not.
 
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I left one exactly like that in my service vehicle when I retired.
The next guy would need it more than me:).
For the low-power ones that will be left 'always-on', research the fan.
Some fans come on wide-open when the unit is turned on, others only when it is under load.
It makes a big difference if it is going to be a permanent installation.
Some can be left on continuous and draw almost no power, others, not.

Where do you think I got the idea to buy that one...?
I think when I got them they were like $30, now $45.

Jim
 
Nice, thanks Phideaux. And Caribou, I agree that a direct battery terminal connection with a fuse makes more sense than limiting it to the 10A or 15A cigarette lighter.
 
I carry a small one in the truck for many years that I have never used.
Most of our gadgets and gizmos all charge with a 12v-USB adapter the size of your thumb. Don't need an inverter for those.
But if you find yourself out in the middle of nowhere and need to drill a couple of holes in sheet-metal with your corded drill and have no inverter?:eek:
...All I can tell you is a .40 S&W makes a perfect 3/8" hole (don't ask me how I know:D).

Now if you want to get serious, Phideaux is hiding this:

*Not a 12-volt inverter. A 48-volt backup unit.
 
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Well, I was sorta hiding it for a while, but decide I would hook it up last year. Now it resides in my laundry room , beside my breaker box with the breaker for all my kitchen outlets tied to it.

Park the golf cart by the back door ...one cable connect and I got my kitchen on lots of power at 15 amps.

Of course it has a limited built in battery that will at least give me time to hook the golf cart.

ups.jpg


Jim
 
I'm sure you know, but the Red connector at the bottom is a Power Pole, but looks more like a 30a model.
THats a nice set up to have
It's an industry-standard Anderson SB50 connector that carries the 48 volt DC power into the unit.
Allows hot-swapping of batteries and 50-amps continuous current.
 
We've used different types over the years. The main thing to watch for is to be sure that the inverter's cooling fan does not come on in the unit just by plugging it in. We emphasize to the retailer that if the fan comes on just by plugging it in we will be back for a refund!

It's okay if it comes on when the unit is working. It's supposed to do that. Some manufacturers seem to think that making the fan come on will make the unit last longer by keeping it cooler. The problem is that the fan is the first thing to wear out on them. If the fan does quit or is noisy you may be able to cut and tape off the ground lead to the motor. I've done that on some and gotten several more years of service out of them. They have a thermal switch that shuts them off if they over heat so safety isn't an issue.
 

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