Chicken feed--what do you feed your chickens?

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I second the question.....what is the best feed for chickens that are going to be isolated in a mountain valley. And how much feed do you need per chicken per week or month?
 
I have a mixed flock and less than half are laying at any one time (the others are roosters, bantams, or senior birds). I give them game bird feed with oyster shell on the side so the non-layers don't get overdosed on calcium.

They also get wheat or corn as a treat, and occasionally left over pasta or rice but that is rare since I also have 6 dogs that get first dibs on table scraps. They do free range 2-3 times a week to gobble up grass/bugs, they have a large run that provides some additional insects when the weather is warm.

As far as how much feed, I would guess the average layer maybe eats 3/4 cup a day? Haven't calculated it but the feeder is always kept full. Google says 1/4 lb per day for the average layer.

In a mountain valley area remember that fresh greens (carotene) give eggs the prized dark orange yolks so if there isn't much grass around either grow some for them or give them a feed with carotene added in. And when it is cold outside whole corn before bedtime helps to keep them warm.
 
Some people feed their chickens their own eggs. I don't and never plan to. I try to feed them organic vegetarian feeds but in a shtf situation this will be impossible of course.
I'd store oats, cracked corn [ chickens can't digest whole kernel I hear,don't know] and worms and crickets. Our chickens loved the green grasshoppers locust but would NOT TOUCH the ones with red in them.
They also love lettuce and clover we would pick and hand to them . Actually they will eat all kinds of things we eat, like all meats . Sometimes we would give them a treat of beef. Also vinegar in their water now and then helps with digestion and controsl parasites.
 
Meerkat said:
Some people feed their chickens their own eggs.
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I always feed egg to newly arrived chicks and also to any bird that needs some TLC/calories. Usually I will give a hen/chicks some scrambled egg or raw egg mixed into a mush with feed for breakfast for the first week as it is more palatable than dry feed. They go crazy for egg so it is an easy way to get them eating or get meds in them. None have ever taken to breaking/eating eggs as result (unless of course the egg breaks accidentally).

In fact for ailing chicks some water/raw egg/sugar makes for a great rescue remedy to pump calories into them and give a weak chick some quick energy. It is the perfect nutritionally balanced chick food.

But I don't feed them eggs as a regular part of their diet otherwise, would rather give extra eggs away or cook them up for my dogs.
 
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Sonya_6 said:
I always feed egg to newly arrived chicks and also to any bird that needs some TLC/calories. Usually I will give a hen/chicks some scrambled egg or raw egg over rice for breakfast for the first week as it is more palatable than dry feed and has the perfect nutritional balance for them. They go crazy for egg so it is an easy way to get them eating or get meds in them. None have ever taken to breaking/eating eggs as result (unless of course the egg breaks accidentally).

In fact for ailing chicks some water/raw egg/sugar makes for a great rescue remedy to pump calories into them and give a weak chick some quick energy.

But I don't feed them eggs as a regular part of their diet otherwise, would rather give extra eggs away or cook them up for my dogs.
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I think about half of those who have chickens do feed them their eggs. I choose not to but thats just me. We have never had weak biddies or chickens, maybe it is just lucky ? Our come in the mail at a day old. Right out of the egg if I heard right anyway. Out of 20 biddies 1 or 2 at most will have pasty butt, but that is taken care of with gentile warm wash rag and QTip.
They say they have to send 10 males to keep females warn in shipping. I think it is to get rod of some roos, but maybe not.
We sell the roos at about 3mon. Feed store says everyone wants our birds. They are so nice and healthy. Who knows someday we may have to try the egg thing though?
 
Sonya_6 said:
I have a mixed flock and less than half are laying at any one time (the others are roosters, bantams, or senior birds). I give them game bird feed with oyster shell on the side so the non-layers don't get overdosed on calcium.

They also get wheat or corn as a treat, and occasionally left over pasta or rice but that is rare since I also have 6 dogs that get first dibs on table scraps. They do free range 2-3 times a week to gobble up grass/bugs, they have a large run that provides some additional insects when the weather is warm.

As far as how much feed, I would guess the average layer maybe eats 3/4 cup a day? Haven't calculated it but the feeder is always kept full. Google says 1/4 lb per day for the average layer.

In a mountain valley area remember that fresh greens (carotene) give eggs the prized dark orange yolks so if there isn't much grass around either grow some for them or give them a feed with carotene added in. And when it is cold outside whole corn before bedtime helps to keep them warm.
Click to expand...

Good idea on the corn but not much in warm or hot weather.
 
Meerkat said:
Good idea on the corn but not much in warm or hot weather.
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Yeah I think they send extra little roos just to move them out too.

But whoever told you chickens can't digest whole corn was mistaken. If they couldn't digest it their poops would be full of whole corn the next day! From what I understand they can break down all seeds/grain as long as they have access to good grit.

Whole corn is supposed to be better in cold weather because it takes longer to digest than corn chops. I feed corn chops simply because whole corn seems too big for tiny bantams to swallow comfortably but I have since found out some corn chops only contain the cheaper parts of the grain without the good part, and it is hard to tell what you are getting when you buy it.
 
Sonya_6 said:
Yeah I think they send extra little roos just to move them out too.

But whoever told you chickens can't digest whole corn was mistaken. If they couldn't digest it their poops would be full of whole corn the next day! From what I understand they can break down all seeds/grain as long as they have access to good grit.

Whole corn is supposed to be better in cold weather because it takes longer to digest than corn chops. I feed corn chops simply because whole corn seems too big for tiny bantams to swallow comfortably but I have since found out some corn chops only contain the cheaper parts of the grain without the good part, and it is hard to tell what you are getting when you buy it.
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I'll have to check that corn thing out, thanks for info.
 
I feed my birds anything and everything, they're just like pigs to me; nature's garbage disposal.
They get layer pellets in the morning, and in the afternoon they might get chicken crack (scratch) to fill up their craws and provide extra heat for cold nights.
Otherwise I give them almost all of the table scraps including chicken, and carcasses. Occasionally, when I have cackleberries coming out of my ears, I'll cook up a large batch for them. They love 'em.
Also at times I'll crush up their eggshells and mix it in with wet mash.

I have one dog who's happier than all get out to have a fresh chicken after a good chase, so no free ranging.:(
 
dademoss said:
Mine are eating "Nutrena Nature Wise Layer Feed, 16% pellet" plus whatever they find wandering around the compound, and whatever was left over from dinner. During the molt they get Nutrena "Feather Fixer"
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I think that's the same feed we use, but instead of feather fixer, I use game bird feed for the extra protein.
 
BBQJoe said:
I have one dog who's happier than all get out to have a fresh chicken after a good chase, so no free ranging.:(
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Yeah I have a couple of dogs like that too. Mine only free range 2-3 hours before sunset when those dogs are inside. At sunset they will all go in the hen house, but if I let them out earlier in the day I can't get them all back in to let the dogs out.

If your dog is a house dog you might want to try that (unless you have a spouse/kids that will leave the door open when the birds are loose).
 
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VenomJockey said:
I second the question.....what is the best feed for chickens that are going to be isolated in a mountain valley. And how much feed do you need per chicken per week or month?
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Whatever Tractor Supply has in stock and table scraps. Don't know if it's the best but I do know the chickens eat it and live to lay eggs.

How much to feed? I fill the feeder to the top twice a week. Feeder is never empty and they can eat all they want.
 
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Road kill is good too. Make a maggot farm with it; a long tube with a screened bottom whose holes are just large enough to let the maggots fall through. Drill holes up and down the sides so the flies can get in to lay eggs on the carcass. Hang the tube vertical. The longer the pipe, the less likely there is to be any smell. Just keep adding meat to the top all summer long. Or, just feed them the road kill straight.
 
There is no smell of rotting meat. There are designs/examples of these on the internet, and they work. Look up maggot feeder for chickens. One can always skip the maggot production and feed straight road kill; it won't be hanging around long enough for it to rot if a velociraptor chicken has anything to say about it. Chickens are not vegetarian by nature. As many know, if they don't get enough protein, they canabalize a non-dominate member of the flock.
 
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I'd like to eventually not buy any feed at all and just feed them whatever keeps them healthy. But too much other stuff going on now and I am just tired of all the work and study.
I wish we had some of the family or people we could trust to help set up a sustainable living type of farm. But that is not going to happen. And we are not gettign any younger.
We checked into a farm type community but even if we could have found sane people who is to say their family is sane also?
 
Meerkat said:
Got more biddies and pullets today. Organic non medicated feed and no shots.
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What breeds?

If you are worried about shtf feed situations you can always store feed wheat in mylar, it should last 20-30 years with an O2 absorber and that will sustain them with a little free ranging. One trick I learned is store it in the original bags (with mylar) instead of a bucket. Feed bags are darn tough and will protect against everything except maybe mice.

A 5 gal mylar bag is the same size as a 50 lb feed bag. Dump the wheat or whole corn out of the bag, line the feed bag with the mylar bag, then pour it back in and seal 95% across the top.

One important tip -- lay the bag on its side and shake to settle the contents, then seal it completely as it lies flat so it hardens into a stackable shape after the air is sucked out. If it is standing upright when the oxygen is absorbed it is impossible to stack and very awkward.
 
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Sonya_6 said:
What breeds?

If you are worried about shtf feed situations you can always store feed wheat in mylar, it should last 20-30 years with an O2 absorber and that will sustain them with a little free ranging. One trick I learned is store it in the original bags (with mylar) instead of a bucket. Feed bags are darn tough and will protect against everything except maybe mice.

A 5 gal mylar bag is the same size as a 50 lb feed bag. Dump the wheat or whole corn out of the bag, line the feed bag with the mylar bag, then pour it back in and seal 95% across the top.

One important tip -- lay the bag on its side and shake it so it is flat, then seal it completely so it has a flat stackable shape after the air is sucked out. If it is standing upright when the oxygen is absorbed it is impossible to stack, and very awkward. Feed bags can also be used to store rice or anything else you keep in larger quantities if you don't want to use buckets.
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2 Rhode Island Red 3 day olds. and 2 Barred Rock 3 week olds. Don't want over 4 and I personally didn't want the RIRs but hubby likes them. I like them too but they are not as docile and quite as the BRs.
 
Meerkat said:
2 Rhode Island Red 3 day olds. and 2 Barred Rock 3 week olds. Don't want over 4 and I personally didn't want the RIRs but hubby likes them. I like them too but they are not as docile and quite as the BRs.
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Agree about RIRs. I try hard to only get docile breeds so the little bantams don't get picked on and avoid all production layer types (production RIRs, Golden Comets, Sexlinks etc...) as it seems most are fairly aggressive.

Though I did get a couple of heritage Rhode Island Reds and they are nice sweet birds. I bought two "female chicks" from a local breeder and one was/is male, he is now 3 years old and lives in his own pen within the coop (I don't send any of them to freezer camp). Course in a shtf situation having a standard rooster would be nice to make more layer chicks so he is sort of a "prep", at least that's the justification.
 
Sonya_6 said:
Agree about RIRs. I try hard to only get docile breeds so the little bantams don't get picked on and avoid all production layer types (production RIRs, Golden Comets, Sexlinks etc...) as it seems most are fairly aggressive.

Though I did get a couple of heritage Rhode Island Reds and they are nice sweet birds. I bought two "pullets" from a local breeder and one was/is male, he is now 3 years old and lives in his own pen within the coop (I don't send any of them to freezer camp). Course in a shtf situation having a standard rooster would be nice to make more layer chicks so he is sort of a "prep", at least that's the justification.
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LOL, you sound like me. None of ours go to freezer either. But if it got bad they would, We just like the eggs. Hubby use to hunt and can clean anything if he has to.
 
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