Cutting metal roofs

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Alaskajohn

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Typically have these things cut to order, but I need to cut a small piece for a couple awnings. I have used large snips and reciprocating saws to cut these with these in the past, but the cuts were not professional looking. I want the awnings to not look like a cub scout hacked on them with a dull knife.

Are there good blades for circular saws that will work on these? I have 6 1/4 and 7 1/2 circular saws. Any thoughts on a blade that will give me a clean cut on one of these panels?

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Metal-Sales-Pro-Panel-II-8-Ft-Tahoe-Blue-Panel/1002747680

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Well, when I did my roof and siding several years ago I had several "experienced" people tell me to use a circular saw with the blade mounted backwards. It worked but making cutouts for windows and doors was very difficult.
Metal snips make a cleaner line but they are very difficult to use, good leather gloves are needed to protect your hands and the hands get tired quick on long cuts.
Last week I used a bunch of scrap pieces to finish the roof on the horse stall. I wasn't concerned about the cut so used a sawzall with a metal blade and the cuts were fairly clean and it was much easier to keep a straight line. I suggest cutting the metal upside down because the saw foot does scratch the surface.
 
Typically have these things cut to order, but I need to cut a small piece for a couple awnings. I have used large snips and reciprocating saws to cut these with these in the past, but the cuts were not professional looking. I want the awnings to not look like a cub scout hacked on them with a dull knife.

Are there good blades for circular saws that will work on these? I have 6 1/4 and 7 1/2 circular saws. Any thoughts on a blade that will give me a clean cut on one of these panels?

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Metal-Sales-Pro-Panel-II-8-Ft-Tahoe-Blue-Panel/1002747680

View attachment 71704
D0748FM_Main-Image20200114.png

The more teeth the finer the cut. Cutting metal is MUCH slower than cutting wood so be patient. We don't typically do sheet metal, but one more resource would be to call an hvac co. in the area and ask their blade pref. If you carefully buffer and place a board over each side of the line leaving enough room for your saw, it will stabilize the material so you will get fewer "jumps" which result in a rougher cut.
 
Several good options mentioned. Another that I have used is to cut until I have one straight cut left, use a straight edge like a large square as a guide, and score it with a razor knife a couple of times and then work it back and forth. Sometimes the edge of a table etc. is helpful to start the bending.

They also make hand shears like the powered model Jim mentioned. The shears that cut out about a quarter inch are way better than the basic tin snips but all are a pain to do right.
 
I use a metabo "potato slicer". Its basically a grinder that uses a 6 inch slicer wheel. Its runs at a higher rpm than a side grinder. It is a cutting SOB. Every one at the weld shops has their own personal metabo. It is one of my most used tools only eclipsed by a chainsaw. They are not cheap, maybe 280 bucks. There is no comparison to a side grinder with a slicer wheel.
 
Speaking of a metabo. I had a 50 foot i beam, probably 20 inches deep. It was in my shop and i needed it removed. I dont have th hd equipment to remove it. So i called the weld shop. They hsve front end loaders and what not. They came and pulled that besm from my shop. They cut the beam from the pilasters with a metabo. Its not that it is over kill for roofing but it is that versatile.
 
I use these on my Metabo for any kind of sheet metal cutting, take your time and they do a nice job, IMO.

View attachment 71731
Great thread!

I had heard about the backward circular saw blade (wear heaing protection) butdid know I could run the blade forward like @hashbrown mentioned.

Re manual shears

Dont close blades all the way to avoid weird bumps along the edges. I prefer the niblers for straight cuts.

Re metabo

I have 5 or 6 harbor freight drill master angle grinders scattered everywhere I look. In all I may have $90 invested in them. Why should i spring for metabo ?

I am considering addiny a 20v Dewalt angle grinder to carry in my jeep and add to the collection.

Any opinions on those?

Ben
 
I have an old Makita 7 1/4" circular saw. For metal I put in a "grinder blade" which are pretty cheap but wear down fast. Great for metal roofing, cutting old water heaters in half, cutting angle iron, etc. Always gives a good "homestead edge" finish. You can cut a window or other hole out of metal siding/roofing by cutting close to the corners, then finishing the corners with a loose hacksaw blade.
 
Why should i spring for metabo ?

Not saying you should, just what I use. Any angle grinder will work as long as you can clamp the wheel on tightly.

Make sure if you use them to wear protective gear, if you pinch or fetch those cutting wheels they can shatter and send pieces flying.
 

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