Designing... and permits..

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TestBoy

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Joined
Jul 13, 2021
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16
Been lurking around for awhile.
Here are my questions....
I live in a state that has some regulations. (SC)

Most building officials that I have talked to seem to be pretty OK with things to a certain degree.
The one thing they seem to be less enthused about is any form of DIY despite the fact that being an "owner builder" is legal and I can do the work of trades myself - as long as it passes.
They probably get a lot of time wasters so I don't completely blame them.

However, getting any form of designer or architecht here is so incredibly expensive that I might as well buy a house.
It's anywhere from 10k to 50k to have them do it. Yes, for a ~2000 sq. ft. house.
We don't want anything outlandish. I just want to build it myself and that will probably factor into the design.

Certainly there has to be some software out there that does most, if not all of the work in this day and age?
I have tried the home designer pro / chief architecht stuff but it does not seem to output anything that could be used for permitting except like one page of one thing.

Any suggestions?
 
What do they call the person who defends themselves in a court of law? Bet the same applies to the majority of those that want to design and build their own home.

I know of no low cost plug and play software that allows a lay person to duplicate what a license Architect can create.


P.S. Welcome to the forum!
 
Been lurking around for awhile.
Here are my questions....
I live in a state that has some regulations. (SC)

Most building officials that I have talked to seem to be pretty OK with things to a certain degree.
The one thing they seem to be less enthused about is any form of DIY despite the fact that being an "owner builder" is legal and I can do the work of trades myself - as long as it passes.
They probably get a lot of time wasters so I don't completely blame them.

However, getting any form of designer or architecht here is so incredibly expensive that I might as well buy a house.
It's anywhere from 10k to 50k to have them do it. Yes, for a ~2000 sq. ft. house.
We don't want anything outlandish. I just want to build it myself and that will probably factor into the design.

Certainly there has to be some software out there that does most, if not all of the work in this day and age?
I have tried the home designer pro / chief architecht stuff but it does not seem to output anything that could be used for permitting except like one page of one thing.

Any suggestions?
Also welcome aboard!

If you have experience and know many/most of the "rules & regs." you might have better luck drawing up a sketch by hand. Make all applicable notes along with said sketch. By this, I mean what size pipes, wall thickness, exterior wrap, etc. all the particulars & have it well organized by the layers they use (plumbing, walls, electrical, etc.) Then, take that to an architect or engineer and ask for a quote to draw it up to meet approval. I significant portion of the arc. or eng. costs is just the hours spent asking the client questions. If right out the gate, you can demonstrate that you don't want to waste any time, they might offer a far better price. If you can present them with something on paper rather than them trying to read your mind, it's a perk. You could add, if there is something obvious I've omitted or overlooked, please let me know. Worth a shot~
 
I get that building officials probably don't want to get dragged into something if someone is hurt/killed.
But they are the gatekeepers. If it's sketchy don't approve it. If they do then perhaps they ought to be.....

@LadyLocust I might try that route.
There are a lot more to things in this state that would take us way off topic that involve the "good ole boy" systems in place.
What I want to do isn't impossible, but it's made to be very, very difficult by the powers that be.
 
I get that building officials probably don't want to get dragged into something if someone is hurt/killed.
But they are the gatekeepers. If it's sketchy don't approve it. If they do then perhaps they ought to be.....

@LadyLocust I might try that route.
There are a lot more to things in this state that would take us way off topic that involve the "good ole boy" systems in place.
What I want to do isn't impossible, but it's made to be very, very difficult by the powers that be.
If it makes you feel any better, we have a business in the construction field (metal) & struggle to find competent engineers and detailers even with all of our contacts. So much is outsourced to India, those semi local are 2 years out. And I totally get the "good ol' boys" club thing - it drives me crazy. Our area has that club in a big way. I say it's like they're teen-agers who never grow up.
 
We sort of need to stay put. It would be nice to go to say, Missouri, where I can thumb my nose at it all.. or even parts of Arkansas.
I like rules. I am an engineer myself.

The counties in our general area are pretty relaxed when it comes to permits and timeframes.
One of them is 2 years and the other is 1 year, but you can simply pay to have it extended for 6 months and the fee is $50.
I am not so concerned about the timeframe since $100 a year is a drop in the bucket.
A third county in the area has no timeframe, provided an inspection ins scheduled within 6 month intervals and failed inspections cost $50 for a re-inspection.
It's pretty obvious there are "loopholes" around the 1-2 year competion timeframes.
I would like to be dried in fairly quickly and take my time with the rest.

Back in 2008 it was not uncommon to see entire developments in various stages of construction that lasted several years. There were houses that were wrapped and had tarpaper or the like on the roofs but nothing else. Some were just footers with stem walls. Then several years later they went back and finished them off. They had rent-a-cops that kept watch to keep vandals out and not much more.
I am guessing the "big builders" got these extensions rather than sit on the completed housing they could not sell for huge profits.

I am trying to not only save money, but get what I want too. I know the idiom "you get what you pay for".
I want this to be an off grid property. When I mentioned a PV array for power to a building official they got squirmy.
Several architechs told me that the solar adds around 10k of costs to the design. If it was one I would call him/her out.
I should specify utility power then add the solar later to get around what I think is a solar tax.

This is why it would be good to have some sort of idea what they want and simply draw it up.
I already know that I want to "overbuild" things a little since we are in a relatively hurricane prone area so the areas I want to concentrate on are things that tend to get ripped off of houses here, like the roof and siding.
 
Building in a "disaster" area requires that the codes are exceeded at every step.
Using screws instead of nails keeps elements from pulling apart but you have to use construction grade screws that get the proper penetration. The screws are less hard than regular screws so as not to break. Normally an engineer has to sign off on the hardware to pass inspection. There are companies that make specialized hardware for roof retention and have specialized hardware to use with their hardware - special screws are an option. Regarding hurricanes you need to build a water channel at ground level with the house well above the extreme water line of the rise in water levels even at high tides. Remember that water is more of a threat to the home than the winds. The high winds and impacts of wind blown debris are an important, though secondary, concern.
Remember that from the top down to the foundation everything has to be connected to the foundation and that foundation has to be capable of withstanding all the forces from all the components. Normal construction uses only gravity to hold the house together. Building it to take the horizontal forces is more difficult. I am designing a home that will take an M8 quake, a forest fire, winds up to 160 mph and a wall of water up to 2 feet tall at 30 mph with no more than cosmetic damage. I think after three tries I have a reasonably strong house that is affordable and will withstand a 1 G load in all directions and two hours of 1800F heat exposure.
 
I need to clarify that I am not at the coast but 2 hours inland.
We still occasionally get a lot of rain and bad thunderstorms.

So when it comes to tying down your trusses things like hurricane clips are not required here, but I would still like to use them.
There is another product that I saw - basically a really long screw that went thru your top plate into the trusses.

I have debated 2x6 construction as well. I am not sure it justifies the expense.
 
Welcome to the forum!

We're going through a house build right now - but your questions are making me feel very thankful. The county we're building in doesn't have any codes. We're still building to a general standard as if we had codes, but we don't have to have our time wasted on inspections, or anyone telling us when the work needs to be completed, or anyone putting their nose in our business.

Do you have any Amish near you? The reason I ask is that our builders are Amish, and they are excellent with regard to doing just as much as we need, and allowing us to do the rest. No architect - they worked off my drawings. I realize your state codes don't allow you to be as free as that, but perhaps there's a similarly minded builder who can work with you. If they've already put together enough homes similar to what you want to do, maybe something they already have on hand would work for you.

Definitely wishing you luck!
 
No amish here. I used to frequently travel thru PA and saw them there all the time.
They are certainly skilled and I would love to have them.

If I could do it elsewhere I would. We considered Missouri and Arkansas but we cannot make that move work for us.
 
In our area we can build our own home. I hired an inspector to sign off on the different phases. Foundation, framing, mechanical, insulation, finish. Costs a couple thousand bucks but the banks n federal loan programs will approve financing when sold.
I have graph paper n some plastic drafting stencils. Basic drafting supplies. You can draw up each phase. One at a time. And will develop a material list as you go. As in draw floor plan. Maybe use different colored pencils for outlets, receptacles n such. Draw out each wall framing components drawing in where windows, doors n such.
I would suggest using 2x6 construction. More insulation for cooling and heating. You will recoup the minimal added cost quickly.
 
Because I have an engineering background I tend to look at stuff like 2x6 construction and want to see some hard data.
There is data on the subject and it points towards better thermal efficiency. There are oddities like windows having a deeper recess.

Here in SC, we have hot summers and mild winters. I'm not sure that going from 2x4 to 2x6 will make a lot of difference.
We already want the following in our house....
- conditioned crawlspace
- rockwool insulation
- conditioned attic

They are already starting to come around in this area with sealed crawlspaces and sealed attics. Most houses have both vented and then you have HVAC ductwork that gets absolutely soaked in the summer.
We hope to have have improved air quality and efficiency.
 
TestBoy,
2x6 is the minimum that I will use. The outside walls of my design are 2x8 and the interior walls are 2x6. All the walls are anchored into the foundation every 32 inches. (yes I have the interior walls anchored too) The exterior walls have rods from the wall anchors to the top plates and the roof is tied into top plates with H16 ties every 16 inches. (roof trusses every 16 inches instead of the normal 24 inch spread)
It all adds expense but the added strength compensates for the expense. I also have plans for 5/8 inch sheathing on both sides of interior walls and 3/4 inch sheathing outside of the exterior walls. The walls, ceiling, roof, and floor joists have ties every 48 inches so there are no unsupported sheet ends. This provides for a "one piece" diaphragm on all surfaces that forms a rigid but flexible frame. I also have steel seismic ties on the exterior walls and roof. The fire cladding is added to the exterior walls and roof with no exposed combustibles. The added strength is going to cost 30% more but it is over the codes by 100% and it increases the strength x 3 over the minimum codes. The "code +" specs carry over into the electric, plumbing and foundation as well.
 
@SheepDog I have always wondered about securing the walls to the subfloor.
What I see all the time is that the walls are simply nailed down. Sometimes there is a bead of construction adhesive but that's it.
The typical construction here is to bolt the sill to the stemwall and go from there.

You have given me something to think about....
 
We went with 2x6 construction when we built in 1994. Its hot here in the summer and we keep the house around 68. Utility bill are lower than all our neighbors.
But I think if I built again I would go with 2 2x 4 insulated walls separated by foot. The dea air space would add greatly to the r value.
 
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@SheepDog I have always wondered about securing the walls to the subfloor.
What I see all the time is that the walls are simply nailed down. Sometimes there is a bead of construction adhesive but that's it.
The typical construction here is to bolt the sill to the stem-wall and go from there.

You have given me something to think about....

I have designed sills above the foundation to allow 2x8 floor joists to sit on a water barrier and come up to support the sub-floor. The interior walls are tied to the sills with a simple "L" hold down bolt that goes through the sill plate from the sill and foundation, the sub-floor and the two bottom wall plates. That anchors the wall and the sub-floor to the foundation. The sills are designed just high enough to bring the floor joists even with the sill plates. I plan to use rock wool insulation in the floor, walls and ceilings. 7 inch batts in the floor and exterior walls; 5.5 batts in the interior walls and R90 batts in the ceiling.

I refuse to use stem walls as they are simply week points in the construction of a building. In "normal" construction only the sill plate is anchored to the foundation and the walls and sub-floor are just nailed to that. I design the floor to rest on the sills and have the anchor bolts penetrate the sill plate, the sub-floor and the two bottom plates of the wall. The entire lower wall and sub-floor are held tightly to the foundation sill. The walls can't be slid out of place and all the wood is screwed together so it won't pull up or out of position.

I have built both my garage and shop in this way. When I build my new house I will improve the process because it is a living area that will need plumbing and better ventilation.
 
More insulation equals less transfer of energy. Energy costs money.
We want to build our retirement home next year. I had looked at double wall construction and had done that before creating a 12" thick wall.
What I came up with was. For walls, 2x6 with spray foam insulation. And 2" blueboard insulation over that to make a thermal break from the studs. Tyvec, felt paper, wood siding.
R-42 blown in insulation in the lid.
Slap floor with 2" of blueboard under it for a thermal break. Toyo boiler for in floor heating and on demand hot water. Fuel oil fired. And a fuel oil drip stove in the living room that simulates a woodstove. And as backup for when the power is out.
 
@SheepDog
I am curious. I think I can picture what you are doing.

As to stem walls.. yeah I agree they are not the best.
Since this is something I am going to do myself I plan on going with block, and the footer deeper than code would call for based on our frost line.
That, and a lot more rebar.

I am wondering if I can simply use longer bolts from the stemwall and bold down the bottom plate.
For the floor joists I want to use engineered wood I-beams or trusses.

There are a lot of things that I want to do that certainly exceed code.
 
On our home I built the footer 12x16. A bit wider than required but I wanted to get a compactor between the form boards to compact the ground. Then a 6" thick 4' tall found wall.
I use a 12" j bolt that is imbedded into the concrete foundation walls. 5/8" rebar reinforced. As is the footer.
AWW wood sill plate bolted to the foundation walls. Structural floor joists nailed into the plate. Manufactured rim joists around the ends.
Sheeting on the outside is 10' long so it's long enough to go over the rim joists and sill plate. Covering them and strengthening the hinge points.
Good luck
 
I am going to need luck.

I am rather discusted with what I learned yesterday. After calling a bluff on a "go away" price I was given by offering to show up with a bank check, I got told basically...... that there are "relationships" with the "big builders" and they dont want to harm those "relationships".
So I got told no instead of just being told NO the first time.

The process is so incredibly dishonest.....
 
I am going to need luck.

I am rather discusted with what I learned yesterday. After calling a bluff on a "go away" price I was given by offering to show up with a bank check, I got told basically...... that there are "relationships" with the "big builders" and they dont want to harm those "relationships".
So I got told no instead of just being told NO the first time.

The process is so incredibly dishonest.....

Have you considering just selling that land and moving to a place without building codes?

Sorry, I know this is not a great answer. But I think living in a place where you are beating your head against building codes for the rest of your life sounds like hell.
 
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If I could just move, yes... we would sell it.
The issue is that I am a key person in my company and I have to sort of be here. I entered a protected class a long time ago :)
Then there is the family issue.

Unfortunately I may have to fight dishonesty.... with dishonesty.
Or I might just go find a college senior and help them pay for that last semester since the plans dont require stamps. :)
 
There is a lot of leeway in the codes and sometimes it is up to the inspector. Inspectors don't trust screws because nails are called for in the specs. You need an engineer to go beyond the normal accepted code related work. That goes for using larger wire in the electrical or larger pipes in the plumbing.
Building my garage and shop I had two inspectors that told me they wished they had buildings like mine. My neighbors said that if there was an emergency they were going to come to live in my shop. Sadly, for me, one of my neighbors died of a heart attack a couple of weeks ago. He is with his wife again.
 
There is a lot of leeway in the codes and sometimes it is up to the inspector. Inspectors don't trust screws because nails are called for in the specs. You need an engineer to go beyond the normal accepted code related work. That goes for using larger wire in the electrical or larger pipes in the plumbing.
Building my garage and shop I had two inspectors that told me they wished they had buildings like mine. My neighbors said that if there was an emergency they were going to come to live in my shop. Sadly, for me, one of my neighbors died of a heart attack a couple of weeks ago. He is with his wife again.
I upgraded my water lines from 1/2 to 3/4.

You know that issue when the better half starts the laundry when you are in the shower?

Not now.

Ben
 
Cool, Thanks.

That said, we have the land now. (~9 acres) We found an area in the state that seems more progressive. (Aiken County, SC)
The council has even allowed tiny homes and has been friendly towards the idea.
Before we bought the land I contacted the building department and asked about building yourself and I didn't get any pushback.
What I was told is they deal with that "all the time" so I feel a lot better about things.
They seem like they want to work with you, not against you. They have been a big help with permit questions.

Tomorrow I meet with a gentleman to get his quote on getting part of the land cleared with a forrestry mulcher.
The underbrush on some parts of the land is too thick to pass, even with a machete / brush cutting blade on weedeater.
I made little progress hacking at it.

Once we have an area cleared.... perc test.
It's sandy soil. I poured some water on the ground and it vanished pretty quick so I don't think we have a problem there.

The adventure begins, that's for sure.
 

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