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Caribou

Time traveler
Neighbor
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Joined
Dec 3, 2017
Messages
10,304
Location
Alaska
When it comes to gardening I'm starting from the ground up, literally. I need to build soil for some raised beds. I tried planting in 100% compost last summer and nothing survived the winter except the weeds. I have compost, sand, steer manure, MiracleGro and other dirt that I thought would go in at 100% as a top soil but the bag says to mix 50/50 with local dirt and I am currently looking for a source of topsoil.

What do I need to do? I just realised, I don't even know what I don't know!

I will be planting blackberries and strawberries in the next week. The blackberries and my Sequoia Strawberries arrived yesterday and I have started the hardening process. The White Pineberry Strawberries shipped today. I'm a little late to recognising my lack of knowledge.
 
How old is the steer manure? I just pick a spot in full sun with a wind break and till compost and manure in. It will take a few years to improve the soil. As for stuff not surviving the winter. You ARE in Alaska after all........
:LOL:
I put a couple bags of steer manure in a shed last summer. I don't have any soil, I have glacier poop, everything from grains of sand to rocks the size of a basketball. There is a thin layer, a couple of inches, of dirt over the top in places but nothing to build with. I just got a truck load of topsoil delivered and now I need to figure out what to mix with it and in what ratio in order to make my mix. When I say I'm starting from the ground up I'm not kidding.

I think I killed the raspberries that I planted last year by putting them in pure compost.
 
Drive around on rarely traveled state lands... If you see a spot with lush plant growth... dig up a few 5 gallon buckets of what every they are growing in... shhh! don't tell anyone.
 
We always fertilized our garden etna in the fall after harvest. Everything from pigs, cows and chickens went into it. Fresh and un composted then tilled in.
 
glacier poop!!!!:LOL::LOL:
That's what it is, rounded rocks of all sizes down to sand in a compacted form with no biomass. It's a bear to dig into.

Mom gave me her recipe.

2 parts dirt
2 parts peat moss (I'll use compost)
1 part sand
1/2 part vermiculite
1/2 part steer manure
bone meal to taste
 
That's what it is, rounded rocks of all sizes down to sand in a compacted form with no biomass. It's a bear to dig into.

Mom gave me her recipe.

2 parts dirt
2 parts peat moss (I'll use compost)
1 part sand
1/2 part vermiculite
1/2 part steer manure
bone meal to taste

Sounds like desert soil. We have everything from boulders to fine sand and no organic matter.
 
Caribou, I have been thinking about this thread. Have you ever gardened in Alaska? Is there a lot of gardening in your area? We have government offices that give gardening advice and suggestions. They are called Extension offices. I wonder if you might have one you could visit. You are dealing with new compost, but here, we can have soil tested and get recommendations for what is needed to improve it. My thought is that the local extension office might be able to make suggestions to you, based on your area.
 
Thanks Weedy, we do have extension offices. I think the compost that I'm using will be fine in a month but will suit my needs now. My beds need to be ready for plants in one week and with my slow speed I do't feel that I can add the bureaucratic speed of the college into the equation. I picked up pearlite and bonemeal today and I have the first batch in the wheelbarrow but not yet mixed. I've decided to water each layer as I go. A couple patches of sod and some cardboard that was not yet composted went in the bottom. along with 5 or 6 gallons of raw compost. That will get 16" or 18" of dirt on top of it so I'm not too worried about it taking a year to compost.

Frequent breaks seem to be SOP these days.
 
Oh, no I haven't done any gardening. That is why I'm asking such basic questions. There is plenty of gardening in Alaska. I live in what is referred to as "The Valley" where there are lots of farms. The State Fair Grounds are about ten minutes from my house, if the fair isn't going, if the fair is going any time estimates are wrong. Here is a link to a story about pumpkins. We are also noted for our cabbage.

https://www.adn.com/alaska-life/gar...that-just-broke-the-alaska-state-fair-record/
 
Sounds like you have a good start on everything. Time, it takes time. No way to rush maturing soil. You have a good base with the topsoil, whatever that might be in Alaska terms I don’t know. Long as it is not rock, it makes a good base to start with I guess. Perhaps the thing you might look into is the pH of the soil there. Just asking, have you checked? Is it acidic, basic, need something to turn it one way or the other? That will make a huge difference in survivability.

It also sounds like you have some great additives to improve the soil. Anything helps really if you add enough of it. Just keep track of any horse manure and mature it to kill the weed seeds before adding to the garden. Mulch heavy and it will eventually break down as well as hold moisture in. Being cold there, it might not let the soil warm up, that’s something I do not know about.

In NC when I rented, I dug 2’ round holes about a foot deep out of the clay and put in soil I scraped from around the yard. Some areas had a couple inches of soil over the clay, some had sand. I used Osmocote fertilizer and mixed it in with the soil, right in the holes. The one I used was billed as ‘organic’ but who really knows. I believe I also had to put in some dolomitic lime to release nutrients from the clay. The Osmocote did a great job, time release, lasted all season. It might be something to look into for your first year or two until you get the soil built up.
 
Thanks Woody, I bought a Ph meter and I plan to test in the morning after it has had the night to blend together. Im giving it a good soak with each barrow full. I'll blend 1 or 2 more barrows today and call it good.
 
I have never had experience with this, never had to do it. A search returned this piece: Perhaps someone who has personal experience can chime in

https://www.grow-it-organically.com/changing-soil-ph.html

Lowering Soil pH
Why would you want to lower soil pH?

If soil pH testing indicates your soil is greater than 7.0, you have an alkaline soil, and changing soil pH may be called for, depending on what you’re growing.

As soil acidity increases, minerals like phosphorous, iron, and zinc become more available.

In alkaline soils, these minerals—especially iron and zinc—are bound up and less available. Fruiting plants like tomatoes, peppers, squash, and melons need these minerals to flower and set fruit.

Soil acidification also makes life more difficult for many weeds. Weeds are early successional plants that evolved in thin, alkaline soils. In acidic soils, many weeds are weaker competitors.



Ways to Lower Soil pH (Make Soil Acidic)
Soil pH can be lowered by half a point—from 7.0 to 6.5, for example—by increasing soil nitrogen. Adding compost, manure, or organic soil amendments like alfalfa meal to the soil can help drop pH over time by increasing bacterial populations. Click Here for a list of concentrated organic nitrogen fertilizers that can be used to lower soil pH by small amounts.

There's a myth that coffee grounds (2-0-0) are a quick fix for lowering soil pH. Most of the organic acids in coffee are water-soluble, and flush out into the brew. Coffee grounds have a pH around 6.8, close to neutral, so they won't do much to lower pH. They do add a little nitrogen, so they can help reduce pH over time, just like manure or compost.

If you need to drop soil pH more quickly, try watering your plants with leftover (cold) coffee, diluted 50-50 with water. This works especially well for houseplants and container vegetables.

To lower soil pH by larger amounts (more than half a point), use Elemental Sulfur, sometimes called “Flowers of Sulfur”. Order Elemental Sulfur
ir


When using sulfur for changing soil pH, be aware that the acidifying effect depends on soil bacteria (thiobacillius), which oxidize the sulfur and release dilute sulfuric acid into the soil over a period of weeks to months.

Because the acidifying effect of sulfur depends on soil bacteria:


  • The sulfur must be dispersed through the soil to be in contact with these bacteria. Make sure you mix the sulfur thoroughly into the soil. Otherwise, there will be strongly acidic areas around blobs of sulfur, and no effect elsewhere in the soil.

    Sulfur only works during the summer, when the soil is warm and bacterial activity is at its highest.

    Sulfur is not a quick-fix for changing soil pH. After application there is a delay of several weeks to several months before soil bacteria break down the sulfur to acidify the soil.


Elemental sulfur is acceptable as an organic soil amendment for changing soil pH under National Organic Program (NOP) guidelines.

When using elemental sulphur for changing soil pH, it's best to divide the amount to be applied to achieve the desired drop into 2 or 3 applications over the entire season, instead of a single application. Applications should be 6-8 weeks apart.

End [there is a table in the link that would not copy well.]
 
I'm trying something new in our raised gardening beds and container gardens this year. Mixing peat moss, steer manure, compost and perlite. Mixing the steer manure and compost 50/50, then mixing that with the peat moss and perlite: 1/3 for each. I used this mix on my Barlett peach trees in early spring and they've never looked so good. So I'm trying it with everything. I'll let y'all know how it turns out.
 
Thanks Terri, 1/3 or better of the mix is compost. What is ironite?
 
Promised I'd provide an update on the gardening mix we're trying this year, which is essentially "Mel's Mix" from the "Square Foot Gardening" approach. It's definitely a more cost expensive and labor intensive approach. And now the early results are in. It didn't make a lick of difference.

Gardening where I live, on the western bench southwest of Salt Lake City, is generally a pretty difficult proposition. Extremely short growing season (very end of May through mid-September - you can cheat a bit with some of the more hardy root veggies, but not much) and harsh winters. Lousy soil. We often refer to gardening here as a 50-50 proposition: plant two and hope one lives. I was hoping that this gardening mix would improve things. It didn't.

Hope sharing this will keep somebody else from going down this costly and labor-intensive rabbit hole.
 

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