Ft Joe Solar upgrade project

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Amp is flow, voltage is pressure, but power is watts. Three different parts of the equation. Time is part of it too. 1 amp hour is one amp for 1 hour. 900 amp hours is 1 amp for 900 hours.
Your 900 amp hour 12 volt has (amps times volts = watts) 10,800 watts stored while your 900 amp hour 24 volt battery has 21,600 watts stored. That shows that the 24 volt battery has twice the power (watts) as the 12 volt battery.
That is a very simplified way to show the power of a battery. In reality if you have a 900 amp load on both batteries they will not last a full hour because the voltage will drop very fast at those loads. Amp hour ratings are usually a 6 hour rate for industrial batteries and an 8 hour rate for commercial (retail purchase) batteries. That means that the industrial batter can take a higher load for a longer time than a commercial battery. The batteries can only produce so many amps at their nominal voltage for a given time. If you drain them faster the battery will produce less voltage trying to keep the amps up. That causes a loss of power.
I have attached a PDF that shows how the capacity of a battery is tested. The test is for a 12 volt battery but you can use the same test for a 24 volt battery by doubling the minimum voltage.


Thanks Sheep D. Our next project is to set up solar we bought a couple years ago. :Thankyou::thumbs up:
 
Sheepdog, I do agree there are entire hillsides /mountain passes that have huge windmills but the big question is like in real estate, Location, location, location. Not many places have sufficient winds strong enough and consistent enough to adequately power a residential sized wind turbine. Now as far as being hemp resistant, I will bow to your knowledge in regards the survivability. In regards to the state attempting to confiscate the power, in a grid down scenario, I doubt the government will be interested in a single home system. They will have much bigger fish to fry. I do think that any neighbors close by will be very interested in any self sufficient home. I can see a whole bunch of neighbors running over with their extension cords wanting to plug in, not understanding the limitations or not caring about the limitations of the electrical resources. The available wind near me would not power a single LED light on a consistent basis. Solar power is available at most locations on a fairly consistent basis.

Now as for keeping the system for myself. It all depends on how you build and where you build. Once the THH project is completed, I doubt anyone, short of the military will every be able to even approach the house, much less be able confiscate the system. I designed the THH project to be defend-able and I would defend it against all comers. Being self sufficient also means (to Me) being able and willing to protect that investment. JM2C.[/QUOTE


Good points. And let the neighbors who didn't prepare ' eat cake'.:waiting: :thumbs up:
 
I have finally gotten in all the components, and have them wired up.
The system is up and running, and I don't think I could phase it if I tried.
I can now run just about anything and everything, and it doesn't bother the batteries at all.
If it drops any at night, the bank is fully charged by about 9 am.
This whole time, the house has been temporarily wired for both AC and DC.
The next project will be to install a real live breaker panel, and some permanent wiring, while adding more lights, sockets and the likes.
I'm also adding outdoor electrical as well.

Here is control central finally all wired and dialed in.

IMG_4450.JPG
 
I have finally gotten in all the components, and have them wired up.
The system is up and running, and I don't think I could phase it if I tried.
I can now run just about anything and everything, and it doesn't bother the batteries at all.
If it drops any at night, the bank is fully charged by about 9 am.
This whole time, the house has been temporarily wired for both AC and DC.
The next project will be to install a real live breaker panel, and some permanent wiring, while adding more lights, sockets and the likes.
I'm also adding outdoor electrical as well.

Here is control central finally all wired and dialed in.

View attachment 3885

Outstanding install. Looking forward to additional updates as your project progresses.
 
One of my favorite components is the box on the far right.
I salvaged it from a decaying camper.
It's a breaker box that includes about 15 DC fused circuits, a main AC breaker, with 3 other 20 and 30 amp AC circuits.
It's running DC into the house, as well as DC lighting inside the shed, and outside to the pergola in the backyard, plus the relay for the venting fan inside the shed that helps to exhaust battery gasses when the system is in a charge state.
The AC is running a switched socket at the pergola for AC LED lighting, as well as a socket installed at the back of a shed for when a guy needs some AC outside for whatever.
 
I picked up a 110VAC to 220VAC transformer yesterday.
It looks about the same as the inverter, cost me the same too. They were both used at the same previous install.
We'll now be able to pump from the well using solar, and save another 20 gallons (or so) of gas each month.
So with the new setup, I've knocked off about 50 gallons a month so far.

And we don't have to spend the time shagging around worthless gas cans, and pouring gas all over ourselves with them.
Not to even mention lifting them in and out of our truck, also time spent standing at the pump.
I want to go install it, but, it's just too windy for today.
 
I have finally gotten in all the components, and have them wired up.
The system is up and running, and I don't think I could phase it if I tried.
I can now run just about anything and everything, and it doesn't bother the batteries at all.
If it drops any at night, the bank is fully charged by about 9 am.
This whole time, the house has been temporarily wired for both AC and DC.
The next project will be to install a real live breaker panel, and some permanent wiring, while adding more lights, sockets and the likes.
I'm also adding outdoor electrical as well.

Here is control central finally all wired and dialed in.

View attachment 3885


Nice set up BBQ. We need to set ours up soon too. I think we may use a utility trailer, not sure yet.
 
If we don't get anymore snow I need to get off my butt and start using the post hole digger for the array support post holes, at least the soil is damp enough to make digging easy. The only thing I wish I had done was to have run extra wiring for DC in the house, but then I never figured we'd ever have a solar backup system. Even though my wife and I were somewhat survival minded years ago, we had no idea the rabbit hole would go as deep as it has.
 
I got a break yesterday to install the transformer, and it works flawlessly!
Not only am I saving on gas, I don't have to listen to the generator growling for hours at a time.
The only thing missing now is some sort of float switch to shut the well pump off when the tank is full.
Right now we just use visual, and wait until water come out through the overflow valve.
The tank is located on a hill above the house, and running wire up to it for such a thing isn't impossible, but it just makes for one more thing to add to the mouse menu.
Ideally, a battery operated water sensor/horn something mounted at the tank would be best. I haven't begun the search yet, but I'm about to.
 
I got a break yesterday to install the transformer, and it works flawlessly!
Not only am I saving on gas, I don't have to listen to the generator growling for hours at a time.
The only thing missing now is some sort of float switch to shut the well pump off when the tank is full.
Right now we just use visual, and wait until water come out through the overflow valve.
The tank is located on a hill above the house, and running wire up to it for such a thing isn't impossible, but it just makes for one more thing to add to the mouse menu.
Ideally, a battery operated water sensor/horn something mounted at the tank would be best. I haven't begun the search yet, but I'm about to.

Our generator came in handy last year when storms hit, but the noise was a little irritating. We still have a complete solar set up stored in case.
I need to see about some kind of faraday cage to put component's in though.
I wonder if a metal garbage can would work?
 
If we don't get anymore snow I need to get off my butt and start using the post hole digger for the array support post holes, at least the soil is damp enough to make digging easy. The only thing I wish I had done was to have run extra wiring for DC in the house, but then I never figured we'd ever have a solar backup system. Even though my wife and I were somewhat survival minded years ago, we had no idea the rabbit hole would go as deep as it has.

Angie here was saying we have a solar flare or something coming in by March 18th. Only a few days from now. So I do want to protect our solar stuff. Charge controller,inverter, voltage reader etc,etc,
 
Angie here was saying we have a solar flare or something coming in by March 18th. Only a few days from now. So I do want to protect our solar stuff. Charge controller,inverter, voltage reader etc,etc,
Hmmmmm. Curious what one is supposed to do to protect stuff.
 
What wire size have you guys been using for your battery to battery connections, from the panels, and to the inverter? I'm setting up a 48V. system.
 
...The only thing missing now is some sort of float switch to shut the well pump off when the tank is full...The tank is located on a hill above the house, and running wire up to it for such a thing isn't impossible...
A pressure switch at the house? When the pressure reaches the MAX a relay shuts off the power to the well at the house. Pressure switch is at MIN and a electric eye confirms it's daylight the relay turns the pump back on until the MAX pressure is reached.
 
What wire size have you guys been using for your battery to battery connections, from the panels, and to the inverter? I'm setting up a 48V. system.
The panels themselves come prewired with connectors these days. I believe the standard when purchasing extensions is #10 ga. I'm pretty sure the battery to battery, and battery to inverter that I used is #2 welder wire. It's exposed wire is about as thick as a pinky finger.

A pressure switch at the house? When the pressure reaches the MAX a relay shuts off the power to the well at the house. Pressure switch is at MIN and a electric eye confirms it's daylight the relay turns the pump back on until the MAX pressure is reached.
The set up I came up with feeds from the top, and drains from the bottom, so a pressure switch wouldn't work, unless I reconfigure things.
 
...The set up I came up with feeds from the top, and drains from the bottom, so a pressure switch wouldn't work, unless I reconfigure things.

I'm not trying to me argumentative, I'm not completely understanding.

A water line from the bottom of your water tank goes downhill to the house?

For purposes of this discussion let us say it is 100 feet from the top of your tank to the faucet in your house. 100 feet divided by 2.31 equals 43 pounds per square inch of pressure at the house faucet. A pressure switch by the house faucet set at 43 pounds would shut off the power to the well when the water tank was full.

Provisions would have to be made for when the house stool is flushed which would cause a drop in line pressure, trip the pressure switch and start the well pump momentarily.
 
I'm not trying to me argumentative, I'm not completely understanding.

A water line from the bottom of your water tank goes downhill to the house?

For purposes of this discussion let us say it is 100 feet from the top of your tank to the faucet in your house. 100 feet divided by 2.31 equals 43 pounds per square inch of pressure at the house faucet. A pressure switch by the house faucet set at 43 pounds would shut off the power to the well when the water tank was full.

Provisions would have to be made for when the house stool is flushed which would cause a drop in line pressure, trip the pressure switch and start the well pump momentarily.
Ah, I understand what you're saying now. I was thinking about the pressure inside the tank up the hill, of which there basically isn't any.
 
I would that a float switch, like on a sump pump, would do well for you. An eye to detect light so it only cam on during the day would be connected in series. Another consideration might be a switch tied into the voltage of your batteries. If your batteries are low at sunrise you might not want the water pump coming on till the batteries have had a chance to charge.

A pressure switch would work but I'd expect that the fluctuation in the in the tank level would be greater. A short cycle every day might be easier on the batteries than a longer run every three or four days. Another option might be to put a timer in the system to turn the water on for half an hour or an hour at noon or three when the batteries are working to full and the sun is at it strongest.
 
I would that a float switch, like on a sump pump, would do well for you. An eye to detect light so it only cam on during the day would be connected in series. Another consideration might be a switch tied into the voltage of your batteries. If your batteries are low at sunrise you might not want the water pump coming on till the batteries have had a chance to charge.

A pressure switch would work but I'd expect that the fluctuation in the in the tank level would be greater. A short cycle every day might be easier on the batteries than a longer run every three or four days. Another option might be to put a timer in the system to turn the water on for half an hour or an hour at noon or three when the batteries are working to full and the sun is at it strongest.
A number of good ideas here.
The tank on the hill holds 2600 gallons. I can fill it from empty in less than 3 hours. We aren't doing a garden this year, don't have a flushing toilet, so other than some landscape watering and the usual dishes and showers, having it run on any auto set up really isn't a high priority for me now.
It used to be lug gas to the generator, fill, start, walk back to the house, plug in well and wait for the water to over flow, unplug well, walk back down to generator, turn off, and walk back to house. Now it's just step out the door to battery shed, flip switch. I feel like a king.
 
Solar events only produce problems in long wire conductors. Your solar and electronics are going to be fine. The only EMP that affects electronics is the E1 pulse of a high altitude nuclear blast.
 

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