HELP! Any Mechanics Around?

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Also @Supervisor42 after rotating the engine at least 20 times and checking there are no different color links on this timing chain.
It doesn't matter.
They are useless even if they were there.
If they did away with them, it wouldn't surprise me at all.

In the old days:
2010-08-07_030106_Z24.png

Useless because you can't see the bottom sprocket.
 
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It doesn't matter.
They are useless even if they were there.
If they did away with them, it wouldn't surprise me at all.


Yea someone change it to one without them. It's really tight and I don't see an adjustment in beside chain to adjust either so it's been real hard to put back on cam after adjusting.
 
It doesn't matter.
They are useless even if they were there.
If they did away with them, it wouldn't surprise me at all.

In the old days:
2010-08-07_030106_Z24.png

Useless because you can't see the bottom sprocket.



That would help if I had different color links. My book tells me about putting cam sprocket silver link on number 2 , but no different color link. Also you know more than I do.
 
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That would help if I had different color links. My book tells ms about put it on number 2 with number 1 at tdc on cam sprocket but no different color link.
This assumes you have pulled the front cover and oil pump, so you can see the crank sprocket, losing the timing for the distributor and buying yourself a world of hurt.

Do ya' think I came up with my procedure after going out in the field numerous times when some tech had gotten them all totally scrambled up?
brickwall100.gif
brickwall100.gif

You'd be right.
 
This assumes you have pulled the front cover and oil pump, losing the timing for the distributor and buying yourself a world of hurt.

Do ya' think I came up with my procedure after going out in the field numerous times when some tech had gotten them all totally scrambled up?View attachment 39165View attachment 39165
You'd be right.
'
Didn't pull front cover or distributor, changed bearings , for pistons , pistons rings and staggered them and made sure I put pistons in forward position so to pump oil the way they suppose too . etc with book as guidance. Viewing att. now.
 
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'Know that feeling.'

I think once I figure out which way this rotor is pointing , then I'll maybe be able to time it.
 
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'Know that feeling.'

I think once I figure out which way this rotor is pointing , then I'll maybe be able to time it.
Posting a picture of it would be priceless. :lil guy:
 
That's the only reason I always try to stick with older modules. The new ones over priced and over rated . imo
At the rate your going not so sure about that.But then I know it
s rough jusr being able to jump into a vehicle and go is not nearly as fun or entertaining!:rolleyes:
But then you have kept me riding for over 40 years so can't complain.:heart:
 
This assumes you have pulled the front cover and oil pump, so you can see the crank sprocket, losing the timing for the distributor and buying yourself a world of hurt.

Do ya' think I came up with my procedure after going out in the field numerous times when some tech had gotten them all totally scrambled up?View attachment 39165View attachment 39165
You'd be right.

:woo hoo::fun fun:
 
All kiddingaside,hubby is good at most anything he does. This truck is hopfully going to be another job well done ,someday.
 
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At the rate your going not so sure about that.But then I know it
s rough jusr being able to jump into a vehicle and go is not nearly as fun or entertaining!:rolleyes:
But then you have kept me riding for over 40 years so can't complain.:heart:


Is slow going but I will get.:heart:
 
It has 8 sparkplugs?!!!View attachment 39205
75D4505.jpg

s-l300.jpg


Boy, you sure like fishin' in the deep end of the pond!



Yep 8 spark plugs.
Bigger fish in the deep end. lol


Need to know which way rotor button is pointing too.
You know as I had told you earlier post that I had marked "Cam, chain and cam sprocket" before I took it apart , so I don't see how with those aligned up it could be out of time.They would only align in the correct spot when crank was in right for the chain and sprocket to meet where I marked them . "RIGHT".

So it maybe something else like coil or something not letting it run.Gonna put it back in align with marks I made and test coil,already check fuses and wires and firing order; "all good".It also has the brain box under passengers seat which will throw codes that I can check. :thumbs:
 
.
You know as I had told you earlier post that I had marked "Cam, chain and cam sprocket" before I took it apart , so I don't see how with those aligned up it could be out of time.They would only align in the correct spot when crank was in right for the chain and sprocket to meet where I marked them . "RIGHT".
First, when you removed the head, the timing chain went slack and fell away from the crank sprocket.
Second, if you pulled the pistons and replaced the rings, you would have to have turned the crank with the chain slacked.
There is no way the chain could have stayed in time with the crank anyway.
The good news is, it don't matter.
We only have to look at what the valves are doing based on where the pistons are and where the rotor is pointing.
 
Which end is the pointer on that rotor?
It has 2 (or 2 pairs).
Lets call them "upstairs" and "downstairs".
4 of the terminals in the distributor cap extend farther down on the outside perimeter (downstairs).
I believe those are the the ones for the sparkplugs in cylinders #1 and #4. Am I right?
Those are the only ones we need to think about.
Plug wires for cylinders #1 and #4 connected to upstairs or downstairs electrodes?
 
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It keeps getting deeper , Huh.
Because of 8 plugs?
I follow you just a little more complicating dealing with two pointers.But you say we only need to think about downstairs one.

1&4 down stairs are what we need to think about first? You asked if you right, "I don't know . You know more than me about mechanics , I"m sure.
 
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It keeps getting deeper , Huh.
Because of 8 plugs?
I follow you just a little more complicating dealing with two pointers.

1&4 down stairs are what we need to think about first? You asked if you right, "I don't know . You know more than me about mechanics , I"m sure.
Trace the plug wires back to the cap.
The sockets that the wires plug into on the cap for those cylinders will be in the larger outer diameter circle (downstairs) or the smaller inner circle (upstairs).
This will tell us which pointer on the rotor to pay attention to.
 
Trace the plug wires back to the cap.
The sockets that the wires plug into on the cap for those cylinders will be in the larger outer diameter circle (downstairs) or the smaller inner circle (upstairs).
This will tell us which pointer on the rotor to pay attention to.
Ok. will do.
 
Trace the plug wires back to the cap.
The sockets that the wires plug into on the cap for those cylinders will be in the larger outer diameter circle (downstairs) or the smaller inner circle (upstairs).
This will tell us which pointer on the rotor to pay attention to.


1-4 E are o and 1-4 I are squares.
 
1-4 E are o and 1-4 I are squares.
Inside circle or outside circle?
Nice of them to mark the terminals on the cap with gibberish, huh?
How about 1R, 1L, 4R and 4L? Nope.
brickwall100.gif
 
Inside circle or outside circle?
Inside circle are the upper electrodes in the cap (upstairs).
s-l1600_e.jpg


If the markings on this cap shown above is correct, then the wiring diagram shown in post #164 is WRONG!
 
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Yes, it sure does.
If this is the downstairs rotor metal contact, then the cam will be in time when it is pointing at the I4 terminal in the cap just as the #1 cylinder exhaust valve finishes closing and the crank pulley mark is at 0 degrees TDC.
DSCN0999_e.JPG
 
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O k , so I need to have lower downstairs metal tab pointing at intake number 4, and then adjust cam until number 1 exhaust valve just closes , and put crank on 0 degrees tdc on number 1 tdc . Right? You did say; " If ", "that's the down stairs rotor metal contact."
 
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O k , so I need to have lower downstairs metal tab pointing at intake number 4, and then adjust cam until number 1 exhaust valve just closes , and put crank on 0 degrees tdc on number 1 tdc . Right? You did say; " If ", "that's the down stairs rotor metal contact."
Yes. You may have to turn the crank off of TDC to be able to turn the cam clockwise without the valves hitting the 1&4 pistons.
It may take a few tries.
If it is one tooth off, the exhaust will still be closing well after TDC or
the intake will be opening well before it gets to TDC.
 

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