Installing replacement shower valve

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CountryGuy

CountryGuy

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So wanted to see if we have any plumber types here. I have one of those typical home projects... what started out as a "honey the kids tub drain won't drain" has turned into a lets replace the hardware to oh crap have to replace the drain and redo everything the asshat builder didn't do and oh yeah replace the sink faucet so it matches...

So long story short I'm going to cut the supply lines out and I'll have to install some blocking to mount the tub feed on and... and ... and... everytime I touch something the job creeps on me...

Here is what I found in the wall when I opened the access panel (at least they'd that in)... also not how centered they where with the old shower valve, everything was shoved over and held in place just by the face plate screws.

in the wall - new drain in.jpgin the wall 01.jpgin the wall 02.jpgOld Valve Off center.jpg
 
here is the new shower valve. As you can see it's much beefier. I'm going to add blocking to mount it to but question as Pfisters directions suck and their youtube shows you how to install 200 sink faucets and replace guts in the shower valve but no where how to install in a replacement job.

I think I can use it without the 2 plastic rings. or do I need to try and keep the large one on the back of the enclosure? I get the 2 rings is to sandwich the fiberglass wall but that requires drilling a bigger hole in the fiberglass which I'm not a fan of. So any experience with a similar style unit or way on installing it?
 

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on the valve...install the tub spout and shower risor piping
on the side of the valve, install 1 each side of the valve a 6'' piece of pipe
attach to these pipes, a 2x2x6'' piece of wood using a 2 hole pipe clamp

install a 2x4 above the shower at the height of want the shower head to be, I install mine at 6'6''
drill the fiberglass tub so that only the round part in the 3rd picture ..looks like it is 3'' diameter?

stick the valve through the hole. secure the shower head with 2 screws in the drop eared 90

now the valve is hung, hole is cut, mount the face plate on the valve ans tighten the screws.

the valve is sammiched. and secure hook up the water
 
Frodo said:
on the valve...install the tub spout and shower risor piping
on the side of the valve, install 1 each side of the valve a 6'' piece of pipe
attach to these pipes, a 2x2x6'' piece of wood using a 2 hole pipe clamp

install a 2x4 above the shower at the height of want the shower head to be, I install mine at 6'6''
drill the fiberglass tub so that only the round part in the 3rd picture ..looks like it is 3'' diameter?

stick the valve through the hole. secure the shower head with 2 screws in the drop eared 90

now the valve is hung, hole is cut, mount the face plate on the valve ans tighten the screws.

the valve is sammiched. and secure hook up the water
Click to expand...
I'm right with ya'!
Every step of the way...
13_371255main_Seismic_1600.jpg
 
I have this job coming up as well, but I first have to find a good tub surround. What has upset me the most is not being able to get a replacement cold water valve for the Chicago Brass bath fixture, it worked great for about 25 years, never leaked but what happened is that the cold water valve stem froze and I broke the stem trying to free it. So much for trying to install fixtures that would last a lifetime, I'm presently adapting a new way of getting supplies, if the product is good, buy two so I have a replacement for the future, I figure that there is a high probability that even quality products for replacements may not be available in the future, not to mention they may be double the present price.
 
Thanks Frodo. This being a retrofit I'm really trying to keep from redrilling or enlarging the current holes. I'm not messing with the shower riser other than to cut it off and connect to that crap cpvc with a sharkbite. I know they didn't do it right with a drop ear elbow but it works for now. Otherwise I'd have to cut the wall open the rest of the way up to get the pipe and support boards and elbow in. The head we have we had repaced a few years ago is one of those with a removable handle she uses bathing the little ones and the dogo's. The holes in the surround are where they are so I think I'm on the same page as you in I'm going to try to dry fit everything backwards. I just wasn't sure i'f I'd need that additional support of those 2 black plastic pieces but as you say if I can mount it on a cross block that should be plenty sturdy.

I'm gonna probably go with a mix of sharkbites, pex and copper. Some Sharkbites where I cut off the supply lines about 4" from the floor and relocate the shut offs lower and to connect to the cpvc riser feeding the head. From there PEX other than the Feed to the tub. The directions show to only mount the spout on iron or copper. It's a very heavy spout so I'm thinking thats why. I'll need another block to mouth the drop ear and I'll connectt to the valve with a thread slip fitting and then sweat copper from there. Only thing is it looks like the short piece that goes from the drop ear thru the tub wall that the spout mounts on requires it be threaded in. I'll see what I find when I hit lowes. I hoped my local lumber place would have cheap PEX tool but they only have one that's almost 300. I see Lowes has a Sharkbite branded one that's only $40 so Guess I'll take a look at that. Sure it should be more than enoguh for a DIY'er.
 
CountryGuy said:
...I'm gonna probably go with a mix of sharkbites, pex and copper... I see Lowes has a Sharkbite branded one that's only $40 so Guess I'll take a look at that. Sure it should be more than enough for a DIY'er.
Click to expand...
It's a small world.
Would you believe that I did work for the manufacturer of those in Cullman Ala, for years?
 
Cool, Company I worked for last supplied some components to the molds that make the plastic slipin support collar in them. Glad to know they're made in USA. I just wish they weren't so dang pricy. I just looked on lowes and to get a 1/2 shut off valve they want dang near $18 while the PEX style are like $7. Pex it will be...
 
I'll throw my comment here, then back off. I don't believe I have ever heard a plumber who recommends using Sharkbites in a permanent position unless you have readily access to it.
 
for the tub spout
use a brass nipple and a brass elbow
then use a brass nipple through the tub.

about shark bites.
they have a rubber o ring that seals them. rubber breaks down over time
do not bury it in the wall. if you just have to. then install an access door in the wall behind the tub, use a minimum 12x12 ac grill LOL [cheap access] this will also let the conditioned air from the house keep the pipes from freezing
 
There is an access panel that pops out with removing 4 screws so not to concerned there. Guess my main concern is that CPVC pipe and how to marry to it. It also has a bad repuation of getting brittle over time and cracking. I think less of an issue since we are on well water with a softener and not on chemical loaded public water. Any other ideas on how to make that transition from the cpvc to the PEX? I'll see what the store says.

hmm i just went looking and I do see the first fitting (pic attached) . Maybe use it to glue to the cpvc and then use a brass female to PEX to connector from there. even with buying the special cpvc glue this has got to be way cheaper than a 4 pak of 1/2 sharkbites at $25. I also see a second option that would take me straight from cpvc to PEX. That might be the ticket if any of the stores have it in stock.

On the sharkbites, I've used some over the years with no issues. They've been on the market now over 20 years but I agree that I personally wouldn't close them up in a wall or put them underground or somewhere i couldn't check in on them from time to time. I do think though that some of the negative air about them is also from people not installing them correctly. Either in marking the pipe so they know it's inserted fully or also in being sloppy with how they cut and prep the pipe for install. I do know you have to be sure it's a square cut and you also need to deburr/ chamfer the inside and out side edge of the pipe and wou also do not sand or rough up the end like you would for say copper. If you don't take those edges off, when you shove the pipe in the sharp edge on the pipe can roll and cut that O-ring. The O-ring is the weak spot in the system. Also long term, say 40+ years, my concern isn't so much the beakdown of the o-ring but the natural relaxation that is inherent to polymers occurs. It "creeps" and in something like a rubber it can loose that "spring" tension that firmly creates the squish and seal.
 

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