Looking for a simple effective way to store dry goods.........

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Normal room air is 21% O2. All grain contains some bug eggs. To keep the eggs of the bugs from hatching you need to reduce the O2% to less than 3%. You can do this with a vacuum, or using O2 absorbers, which eat up about 20% of the air causing a vacuum. You can also displace the O2. Nitrogen is one way that is commonly used. It is sold in compressed cylinders. Room air is 78% nitrogen, so basically it is room air with the O2 already removed. Another way to remove the O2 is to replace it with CO2. This has the advantage that the eggs will not hatch in the presence of CO2 levels higher than 3%. If the packaging leaks you can maintain protection longer with CO2. Even if O2 finds its way in you can loose 97% of the CO2 and still maintain protection.
 
I don't think I will go the dry ice route. It's not imperative, is it?

I was thinking the O² absorber packets in the Mylar bag with the product, then vacuum seal.

Will that suffice?
That is the easy way and it is the way most often chosen. Dry ice is nice but not nearly as convenient as the O2 absorbers. Once you open the packet of absorbers work quickly as they will start eating up the O2 in the air. Store any unused packets in a tightly closed jar, the smaller the jar the better. If you are canning a number of containers it s a good idea to toss in packets into as many containers as you can seal in a very few minutes. The jar with the packets is kept closed except when placing them in your cans or other containers.
 
I don't think I will go the dry ice route. It's not imperative, is it?

I was thinking the O² absorber packets in the Mylar bag with the product, then vacuum seal.

Will that suffice?
Dry ice is not imperative. It was used for a while before oxygen absorbers became available. When I took a food storage class 40 years ago, it was the thing. And mylar was not used then for the same reason. It was not available. I didn't even know about it back then.
 
I agree with Peanut. It is probably better to get your supplies from the manufacturer. I have gotten them at the LDS storehouse. I haven't been there in a while, and I believe they are still closed, but since they no longer do on site canning, they may not have them there.

While I'm not probably ever going to use dry ice, I decided to go the the LDS site to see if they might be open now. I haven't found that out yet, but I did see these instructions for using dry ice and information about storing buckets.
I am not a member of the LDS church, but since I took a food storage class from them, I know them to have lots of knowledge about the subject.

https://www.churchofjesuschrist.org/topics/food-storage/longer-term-food-supply?lang=engDry Ice Treatment Instructions
  1. Use approximately one ounce of dry ice per gallon (7 grams per liter) capacity of the container. Do not use dry ice in metal containers of any kind or size because of the potential for inadequate seals or excessive buildup of pressure.
  2. Wear gloves when handling dry ice.
  3. Wipe frost crystals from the dry ice, using a clean, dry towel.
  4. Place the dry ice in the center of the container bottom.
  5. Pour the grain or dry beans on top of the dry ice. Fill the bucket to within one inch (25 mm) of the top.
  6. Place the lid on top of the container and snap it down only about halfway around the container. The partially sealed lid will allow the carbon dioxide gas to escape from the bucket as the dry ice sublimates (changes from a solid to a gas).
  7. Allow the dry ice to sublimate completely before sealing the bucket. Feel the bottom of the container to see if the dry ice is all gone. If the bottom of the container is very cold, dry ice is still present.
  8. Monitor the bucket for a few minutes after sealing the lid. If the bucket or lid bulges, slightly lift the edge of the lid to relieve pressure.
  9. It is normal for the lid of the bucket to pull down slightly as a result of the partial vacuum caused when carbon dioxide is absorbed into the product.
Storage of Plastic Buckets
  • Store plastic buckets off the floor by at least ½ inch (1.3 cm) to allow air to circulate under the bucket.
  • Do not stack plastic buckets over three high. If buckets are stacked, check them periodically to ensure that the lids have not broken from the weight.
 
Still searching the LDS resources:
https://www.churchofjesuschrist.org...m-sampler/food-storage-where-and-how?lang=eng
5. Store foods in areas that permit easy access and allow control of temperature and humidity. (In general, cool temperatures prolong storage life and quality.) Not all storage items should be located in one area of the house; not all should be stored in one type of container.

6. To destroy insects that may infest grains, nuts, dried fruits, or other foods, place the food in temperatures of 0° F. (or below) for four days. As an alternative, the food may be sterilized by being heated at low temperature (around 200° F.) for about one hour, depending on the nature of the food. Spread the food on shallow pans so that the heat can penetrate easily. Stir the food occasionally to keep it from scorching. Dry ice kills most adult insects and larvae, but it probably will not destroy the eggs or pupae. Pour two inches of grain into the bottom of the container. Add dry ice; then fill with grain. Eight ounces of dry ice is recommended for one hundred pounds of grain, or one pound for each thirty gallons of stored grain. Seal the containers loosely for five to six hours; then seal them tightly.
 
I don't like putting dry ice directly on plastic as it can crack the plastic. Life rafts are filled with compressed CO2. The law requires that the system be tested every few years and a new bottle of CO2 installed. Every test reduces the life expectancy of the life raft by five years. It's the law it doesn't have to make sense.
 
I store my dry goods in bucket that I get from work. Most are 2 gallons (from BH Feta cheese in my area or from bakery icing) but do have some 5 gallons (these are also food grade from work when we had BH dill pickles). These are all food grade with the gamma lids. I buy the 25lbs of flour and sugar, etc and just dump and shut the lids. That is just me though. I haven't had a problem so far except I do have to unclump some of my sugar every now and then which is mno big deal for me.
 
Does anyone have a reliable way to seal mylar bags that doesn't require electricity?


I've never heard of anyone trying. But thinking about it... If you could precisely control the temperature of a flat iron and the duration of the press, why not? But that's a really big IF!

Flat iron.jpg
 
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I've never heard of anyone trying. But thinking about it... If you could precisely control the temperature of a flat iron and the duration or the press, why not? But that's a really big IF!

View attachment 52449
I have one of those! It sat on top of my fridge for years. Now it is in the laundry room. Belonged to my dad's mom. . . yeah I dont say grandma but that is another story.
 
Does anyone have a reliable way to seal mylar bags that doesn't require electricity?
Rather than an iron, you could still use the hair straightener like mentioned earlier but heat the metal portion on wood heat or propane etc.
 
I don't think I will go the dry ice route. It's not imperative, is it?

Its not. 02 absorption is easier. Its almost foolproof. Just make sure your o2 absorbers are sealed until you use them. They usually come heat sealed in plastic, which obviously, is not a good long term way to store them. I always take them out and then pack them as tightly as I can in a canning jar and screw the lid on tight until I am ready to use them.

Just drop one in each bag, seal it and within a couple days nearly all of the o2 will be bonded with the iron in the absorbers. It's the exact same chemical reaction as chemical hand warmers.
 
Still searching the LDS resources:
https://www.churchofjesuschrist.org...m-sampler/food-storage-where-and-how?lang=eng
5. Store foods in areas that permit easy access and allow control of temperature and humidity. (In general, cool temperatures prolong storage life and quality.) Not all storage items should be located in one area of the house; not all should be stored in one type of container.

6. To destroy insects that may infest grains, nuts, dried fruits, or other foods, place the food in temperatures of 0° F. (or below) for four days. As an alternative, the food may be sterilized by being heated at low temperature (around 200° F.) for about one hour, depending on the nature of the food. Spread the food on shallow pans so that the heat can penetrate easily. Stir the food occasionally to keep it from scorching. Dry ice kills most adult insects and larvae, but it probably will not destroy the eggs or pupae. Pour two inches of grain into the bottom of the container. Add dry ice; then fill with grain. Eight ounces of dry ice is recommended for one hundred pounds of grain, or one pound for each thirty gallons of stored grain. Seal the containers loosely for five to six hours; then seal them tightly.
@lilmissy, by chance is this the thread you are looking for?
 
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