Need to drain hot water heater.

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I cane back from trip and nit working hot water heater had let out some water. Heater is 20 years old.

I need to drain it.

I have hose to what looks like place uncle drained it years ago. He's passed away, so i cannot call him. No other family member available. I heloed last time but need to make sure that little lever should open it. Don't know if pressure relief valve. I think I have water off.

This is in mobile home.
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You will need to turn off the water to the heater, and loosen one of the inlets so the heater can breath to drain out the bottom.

Also try to get the nozzle of the hose on better. It's not on right and is cross threading.
 
I took the hose off for tonight. I need to know if that is the correct spot, and if that level switch is the OPEN when down or such.
For tonight I've put towels down to soak up what I can. I wish it had one of those pans, but they didn't put one in this place. Next one will have one.
 

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There is a slight problem with terminology here. Where the green hose was connected looks like the drain for the tank, the white pipe coming out of the tank. The gray valve on the white pipe is in the closed position (perpendicular to the pipe or right angle). If you turn the gray valve so that it is in line with the white pipe the water in the tank will drain out of the green hose.


BBQJoe is asking you to loosen the water inlet for the tank so air can enter at that location as the water leaves via the green hose.
 
It seems to be coming from the plates maybe, I cannot tell. That big braid is where the hose that came with it had a leak a few years ago and was spraying against the wall that enclosed it. That braid is to keep that cable from spraying again.
 
Peanut said:
There is a slight problem with terminology here. Where the green hose was connected looks like the drain for the tank, the white pipe coming out of the tank. The gray valve on the white pipe is in the closed position (perpendicular to the pipe or right angle). If you turn the gray valve so that it is in line with the white pipe the water in the tank will drain out of the green hose.


BBQJoe is asking you to loosen the water inlet for the tank so air can enter at that location as the water leaves via the green hose.
Click to expand...


Thank you Peanut. That is what I needed verifying. Now that loosening the water inlet is difficult as I've not found it yet.
 
Turn off the electrical and gas to the WH. Call a plumber. That system has been jury rigged enough, time to do it right. Water inlet is usually at th top of the water heater and will have shut off valve.
 
The switch that provides power to that has been off for about a year. (I've figured out how to have enough hot water for me.)

The water heater does need to be changed out immediately. I've not had enough funds to consider it when it seemed to first seep some. It was just no hot water, so I turned the power off. I had come home from a trip and back that way it seemed to have that electrical smell. Since that was the only think electrical back there, I turned off the power and the smell went away. Also before turning off the power, the water was barely warm coming out.
 
TMT Tactical said:
Turn off the electrical and gas to th WH. Call a plumber. That system has been jury rigged enough, time to do it right.
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I do believe you are correct. No gas, just electric. Now to find a decent plumber. I just do not want my family to know about this. The ones that can help live states away, and the ones here are too old and in bad shape and don't need to be worried about it, or it would be worse than this situation. They are immense worry warts.
 
Loosing the water inlet is not necessary. The water will just drain out of the tank a lot faster if you do. Funds… How old is that tank? If it is one of the old steel tanks I would buy it if I were your neighbor. They make great troughs for feeding cattle. I take a tank and cut in half lengthwise with an acetylene torch. I get two feed troughs from such a tank. I usually pay $50 for an old steel hot water tank (depending on the size of course).


Do you have a neighbor with cattle or livestock? ;D
 
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Nope. The tank is from 1996 or maybe 97. Original to this mobile home. I'd have to make sure furniture and stuff out of the way to get it out of here. I want the smallest possible to replace it. and standing in one of those pans, so this wet doesn't happen.
 
The drip pan is a must in my opinion, replacing that due to it's age alone is a must in my opinion as well. I believe it has lived a good life. Also there may be some sheetrock/wood/flooring/whatever else got wet that might need to be replaced so it doesn't mold if it hasn't already. Good luck Angie I would help you out if I was close enough.
 
Angie said:
Thank you Peanut. That is what I needed verifying. Now that loosening the water inlet is difficult as I've not found it yet.
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Turn off the power to the hot water heater.

The cold water line to the hot water heater should had a shut off valve on it. Turn it off.

Open a hot water faucet. This will allow air into the tank as the water is drained. Easier then trying to open a pipe, especially with older pipes.

As already mentioned the garden hose is the correct drain location but it is cross threaded. Hopefully the plastic threads aren't buggered up. Turn the valve 1/4 turn to drain the tank.

From the amount of rust and the age I'd suspect (as others have mentioned) the tank itself is leaking and the hot water heater needs to be replaced.
 
You might want to try one of the tankless water heaters if you can. We had to replace ours (regular with a tank) about 6 or 7 years ago and they were pricey then $800) the tankless are more but everyone I've talked to loves them. When we have to replace and hopefully not for many years, that's what we want to do.
 
NannyPatty said:
You might want to try one of the tankless water heaters if you can. We had to replace ours (regular with a tank) about 6 or 7 years ago and they were pricey then $800) the tankless are more but everyone I've talked to loves them. When we have to replace and hopefully not for many years, that's what we want to do.
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I would love to do that. If not. That's why I want a smaller tank when I replace it.
 
Homesteader33 said:
The drip pan is a must in my opinion, replacing that due to it's age alone is a must in my opinion as well. I believe it has lived a good life. Also there may be some sheetrock/wood/flooring/whatever else got wet that might need to be replaced so it doesn't mold if it hasn't already. Good luck Angie I would help you out if I was close enough.
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Thanks for offering to help. It means a lot. (I know others would also.).
 
The Lazy L said:
Turn off the power to the hot water heater.


Open a hot water faucet. This will allow air into the tank as the water is drained. Easier then trying to open a pipe, especially with older pipes.
Click to expand...
The pipe needs to come off anyway to get the water heater out.
 
I bought a better hose today so the connection will work better for me. And some wd-40 so that lever will move. And a small wet/dry vacuum to help with the wet.
That all will be done in about 30 minutes to start the procedure. I'll be happy just to have it drained and cleaned up, then I can start the process of seeing about a new water heater. (Galvanized buckets with liters of boiling water and cold water, in the shower make a nice make do shower. 2 cup measuring cups are nice water dumps. I'm practicing my surviving skills).
 
My guess on the braided line going into the bottom of the tank is it is the cold water inlet.
Things made for mobile homes are sometimes different than things made for regular houses.

Just turn on a hot water faucet and that will allow air into the tank and it will drain faster.

Mobile homes can be a real pain when it comes to repairs.
My MIL had a 70s era and it had aluminum wiring that I was forever working on.
Her water heater was behind a panel in the closet and it was almost impossible to get to it to repair.
There was an outside access panel that was used to replace the water heater.
When it went bad it was because the aluminum wiring had corroded and burnt up.
It turned into a 2 day job and was very expensive because I had to buy a water heater that would fit in the space.
Sounds like you are on your way to getting the water out.
Wish I could help.
 
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I dint know if i can turn off just the water to the water heater. The apparent cold water does not have a switch.
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The place I thought was input seems to be pressure relief valve.

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But it is emptying. But seems to be refilling
 
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