Need to drain hot water heater.

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Damn. I can turn the draining off. Slurp up a good bit of the water, and turn master water off tomorrow (I do have one of those tire iron things to turn water off). Then drain that , but I have turn off valves on sink lines and toilet lines, why the heck not here. Just grumbling.
 
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This shows almost all of it.
 
I wish any one of us lived closer, could knock this out in half a day. Most of that would be waiting for the tank to empty... I feel for you youngen... :((We've all been there at one time or another).

One more pointer... don't want to hit this one too hard. Long ago I wrote a bit of software (before C language), repaired missile systems then worked for an R&D Catscan company who had lots of work stations in a dozen different proprietary languages, my favorite hated enemy… Unix, so I understand your use of the word “switch”.

A switch is used to control electricity, like a light switch or ignition switch in a car, or in software. A valve is used to control water, like for your sink or a garden hose. Using the word "valve" instead of "switch" will make future conversations with a plumber or people at a store go much smoother and less confusing, just trying to help... not being critical at all, just trying to help. :)
 
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Angie, not trying to pry but do you live in Arizona, please do not break OPSEC, just a yes or no. If you are fairly close I can drive up and install the water heater. I have installed several and never had a leak or problem. Send a PM if this works for you. No charge, just have plenty of coffee available.
 
I suggest that before you start that you pick up a 3/4" quarter turn valve, a short 3/4" nipple and a roll of teflon pipe tape. The valve may not drain when you open the valve. this should give you the necessary parts to plug the cold water line so you can get back your domestic water.

The bottom of your tank is currently full of sludge and can plug the valve. If it does not drain get a chunk of wire, coat hanger wire is great. Remove the garden hose, open the valve, and poke the wire through the valve. When the water starts to flow remove the wire and close the valve. Hook the hose back up and proceed as before.
 
havasu said:
You will have to shut off all water into the home, drain the tank, then install a shut off valve before turning the water back on.
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That is the answer.
I would just cap the incoming water line since you aren't going to replace the water heater right away.
You really don't want a shut off valve on the cold water input because it might get turned off.
That would burn up your heating element when the tank ran dry.
 
Angie, you also mentioned the drain pan under the tank (that you don't have one currently). We found out when selling a home that was required to have a pan under the hot water heater, so if it were to ever be that you sell the place, there's one more thing to add to the list. Good decision to get one.
My NH has replaced ours too. The tank was eroding and water was leaking out. Thank goodness for smart and strong.
 
Update: Since I did the attempt to drain the hot water heater, it seems to have cleared some rusty colored water (I had a sink faucet going too that's how I saw it.). Seems to have greatly cut down or stopped the leakage for now. Saturday I went looking at water heaters (dang they are expensive) and have a plumber coming Tuesday or Wednesday to give a quote to replace old with new. (free quote, but labor starts at $400, that's more than I expected). But, so far, I have the funds set aside.

I will be insisting on sitting it in a pan, and having a way to turn the water off as it goes into the hot water heater, so I can drain once a year or so without having to try to turn off the in ground water main. So, things are getting done.

I have been using a small shop vac wet/dry on the area to pull out all the wet I can. Recently very little coming out of carpet, hot water tank area.
 
Angie said:
Update: Since I did the attempt to drain the hot water heater, it seems to have cleared some rusty colored water (I had a sink faucet going too that's how I saw it.). Seems to have greatly cut down or stopped the leakage for now. Saturday I went looking at water heaters (dang they are expensive) and have a plumber coming Tuesday or Wednesday to give a quote to replace old with new. (free quote, but labor starts at $400, that's more than I expected). But, so far, I have the funds set aside.

I will be insisting on sitting it in a pan, and having a way to turn the water off as it goes into the hot water heater, so I can drain once a year or so without having to try to turn off the in ground water main. So, things are getting done.

I have been using a small shop vac wet/dry on the area to pull out all the wet I can. Recently very little coming out of carpet, hot water tank area.
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Do you need to replace the flooring? Now is the time so you are out the added $$ of needing to do it later and starting all over again!
 
Do the pipes that exit though the floor go directly outside? You mentioned trailer so wondering if they dump straight to the ground. If so, when you put your pan in, put the drain fitting at a location where it too can drain directly below. You just need to add an 90° elbow to turn it downward then add a little piece of pipe.
 
You might consider a short stand the same size as your tray. This will lift your water heater a few inches and make draining, a regular maintenance item, a bit easier. If space allows, lift it up enough to get a five gallon bucket under the drain valve. This might come in handy for maintenance but will definitely come in handy if you ever need to drain the water heater for drinking water.
 
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