Recommendations for traction on a plywood ramp

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mattjans

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Hope I got the right area of the site. To get my garden tractor into my garage I have piece of plywood bolted to a couple of atv ramps. It's about 5 ft long with about 8-10 inch rise. It works great but it's just wide enough to fit my tractor and it gets slipper when wet. Worried about getting the tractor in and out for plowing in winter. Seems to slip more with the chains on.

Wondering which if these you would do (or have done...and worked? failed?). Thanks!

1) Paint with "nonslip" paint.
2) Mix some sand into the paint (or some other traction additive).
3) Add short wood/metal cross pieces (maybe 1/4 inch high.
4) Route grooves into it.
5) Something else I haven't thought of.

Thanks!
 
I would go with 3, but paint it with options 1 or 2. I would also add 1/2" drain holes about every 6 to 12"s along the upper edge of the cross pieces so you don't get an ice buildup....
 
Dad and I built a wheel chair ramp a couple years ago. He got sick and winter arrived without him deciding which route to take with a nonskid type material. I suddenly had both parents in and out of the hospital and no time for anything else.

I had a bundle of shingles over in the old barn. I use regular roofing tacks and laid the shingles down in lines for the wheel chair wheels.

It works great, was cheap, 2 years old and going strong.

My first choice was Rhino Bedliner paint.


IMG_3295 a.JPG
 
I'd put the plywood under the ramps. The plywood adds strength and the ramps give you grip. We have a ramp, 100' give or take, going down to our docks. one side has angle iron cleats with the 90º corner pointing up. The other side has rolled asphalt roofing. The asphalt roofing is more comfortable to walk on. The cleats give you better grip. Either one can put you on your butt in the ice and snow.
 
Without knowing the thickness of your plywood or the weight of your tractor I would say put traction strips on each side of your plywood ramp.
Simple or complex and cheap or expensive is up to you.
contact cement and coarse sand
paint and coarse sand
peel and stick traction strips
expanded steel
deicing salt
industrial adhesive and crushed rock
This is just off the top of my head so there are probably more and better choices.
 
joel said:
Works great, but cost more than the ramp, if you buy it today.
Click to expand...
I had strips left over from a stucco job. My old 2 wheel drive pickup was stranded on thick ice. Put a strip in front of the drive wheel and i went up the steep driveway. I kept a section in the bed of the truck... Just in case.

Ben
 
mattjans said:
Hope I got the right area of the site. To get my garden tractor into my garage I have piece of plywood bolted to a couple of atv ramps. It's about 5 ft long with about 8-10 inch rise. It works great but it's just wide enough to fit my tractor and it gets slipper when wet. Worried about getting the tractor in and out for plowing in winter. Seems to slip more with the chains on.

Wondering which if these you would do (or have done...and worked? failed?). Thanks!

1) Paint with "nonslip" paint.
2) Mix some sand into the paint (or some other traction additive).
3) Add short wood/metal cross pieces (maybe 1/4 inch high.
4) Route grooves into it.
5) Something else I haven't thought of.

Thanks!
Click to expand...
Regular asphalt roofing shingles but not overlapped. (maybe?)
 
On my loading ramps for driving my wheeler into the back of a truck. So a 3' lift in 8' . I used 2x8s with some leftover metal roof screws as studs in the boards. I haven't slipped off in years. Good luck n have fun
 
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