Self sufficient with chickens?

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I just got off the phone with our oldest grandson, he's in Washington state, and he's thinking of the same thing. He also wants to raise lots and lots extra and get his butchering license to sell.
We hatch and raise our own chickens and turkeys. For meat, eggs, barter, and resale. We buy feed, but also raise some. Right now we have lettuce, kale, and arugula growing. Soon I'll be starting giant radish (hog radish), giant kale, and a giant beet variety this spring. I've tried all of them on the birds and they like them. Sunflower is also another good one to grow, and I soak and sprout that before feeding. We have acres of dandelion and I put at least four buckets a day to use as feed when they're growing. Just not in the winter. Have not substituted chick starter or game bird starter as of yet.
 
Just understand any homestead chicken breed that are raised for meat & eggs, like Rhode Island Reds, Orpingtons, Sussex, etc will never provide the same amount of meat as the store bought. Those are a hybrid Cornish X that are specifically bred to reach butcher size in 6 to 8 weeks, with plenty of plump meaty carcass. They start out as the same size of a regular chick, but within just a few weeks they become huge, lazy and only eat, sleep & poop. Literally. By the time they are 6 to 8 weeks (normal chicks are still fairly small and fit in your hand), they need to be butchered. If left much longer health problems can start like broken legs that don't grow as fast or as strong to hold the weight of their bodies. Heart issues, etc Even if you let the Cornish X's forage early on so they grow out a bit slower, the outcome is about the same. They are eating & pooping machines.......but it is a quick turnaround to get chicks to the freezer in just a couple of months. At butcher time, they are around 5 or 6lbs of meat each. So if you raise say 20 birds for the freezer, in 2 months time you'll have about 100lbs of meat......but to do that, they need lots of protein and is much easier by feeding bought feed specifically for them. They will eat as long as food is available. Some people provide feed 24/7.......some only feed them twice a day and let them forage for the rest. This is what I've done, with a chicken tractor to move around the yard for forage. Personally feeding 24/7 is more of a waste and asking for health issues IMHO, but everyone does things differently.


As for homestead chickens, they grow out much slower and can take up to 6 months to get of good size, but they're still skinny in comparison. Do some research about breeds, characteristics, size, butcher weights, egg laying, broodiness/mothering ability, etc and decide on which one works for you and your plans. You'll need 1 rooster for about every 8 hens. Maybe more, maybe less, but that would work.

Do you have an incubator? Or would you rely on a broody hen to do the work for you??? If you only have 1 flock of birds, how long do you plan to keep that flock? Do you plan to only butcher any cockerels and old hens?? It is possible to only have the one rooster and have him breed several generations of hens, but eventually you will need to change up the genetics before you get some oddities. My understanding is to never let a full blooded brother & sister mate as that can get you 2 headed monsters. Either way, it's still a good idea to add some fresh new DNA every couple of years.


As for feed.......chickens will eat just about anything, including styrofoam, bb's, plastic bits, broken glass........you name it but the same goes for foodstuffs as well. I have known some people only feed store bought feed, some people offer store bought & forage and others don't offer any kind of feed, leaving the birds to fend for themselves......all the chickens survive just fine.

You can grow grains, most any kind will do, but do have more nutrition of the grains are sprouted first. Put some in a jar and shake it up with hot tap water, then drain.......next day rinse & shake with hot water and drain. Keep doing that for a few days and you'll see the grains sprout. Feed anytime after that. You can also feed them leftovers & kitchen scraps, garden leftovers as well. Just don't feed raw potatoes.......or atleast that's what I've heard from different people and about different livestock animals. Cook them first, but never raw.

Just whatever you do, do not use chemical weed killers or fertilizers or the like on any ground or pasture you let the birds on.
 
I just got off the phone with our oldest grandson, he's in Washington state, and he's thinking of the same thing. He also wants to raise lots and lots extra and get his butchering license to sell.
We hatch and raise our own chickens and turkeys. For meat, eggs, barter, and resale. We buy feed, but also raise some. Right now we have lettuce, kale, and arugula growing. Soon I'll be starting giant radish (hog radish), giant kale, and a giant beet variety this spring. I've tried all of them on the birds and they like them. Sunflower is also another good one to grow, and I soak and sprout that before feeding. We have acres of dandelion and I put at least four buckets a day to use as feed when they're growing. Just not in the winter. Have not substituted chick starter or game bird starter as of yet.


I think he can do all that here up to 1,000 birds (a year???)......I think is the limit but don't quote me on that
 
We raise Cornish X for meat chickens. We tried Red Rangers and didn't like the taste. Cornish X are ready to butcher at about 6 to 8 weeks of age so there isn't a great deal of expense in producing them. The meat chickens are raised inside and not allowed to free range.
Our laying hens are allowed to free range and forage for their own food, spring, summer and fall. Of course during winter they seldom leave the coop. They don't like snow.
There are some broody breeds available but most egg layers don't sit. We're going to buy an incubator and try hatching eggs this year.
 
I have chosen Chantecler chickens for my homestead. They are winter hardy - they don't get frost bite - they do well foraging all year, even when there is snow on the ground and they continue to lay in the winter. I will establish a healthy breeding population and use them for both meat and eggs. And breed them for sustenance. I can keep eggs fresh for 3 years at room temperature. I can freeze dry them for cooking and for scrambled eggs. When a hen stops laying she is meat. Roosters will be traded off each time new genes are required to keep the flock healthy (gene wise).
 
I raise chantecler. They aren't true chantecler anymore but they are still good chickens. I really like them. They are considered cold tolerant because they don't have combs. Their toes can freeze just like any other breed. Flat 2 X 4 roosts takes care of that problem.

If you free range any chicken, they will develope leg meat that will require denture glue to to keep your teeth in. Pressure cookers and canning take care of that issue as well.

I free range the cornish cross and they take to it like any other chicken. Because of their size and breeding, the leg meat developed a bite, but not tough and stringy. Most people don't like true free range chicken because they are used to mushy factory style chickens.

I raised 100 cornish cross meat birds this past summer. They were free ranged almost six months and I never lost one. I still have five of the hens to breed with my chantecler rooster. That produces a really nice all purpose bird. The best of both worlds.

After six months my meaties dressed out at 10 - 13 lbs. Each breast at 1.5 lbs. The four roosters I butchered at eight months dressed out at 14 - 16 lbs. I was able to give the neighbors the equivalent of a turkey for Christmas. None were available in the stores due to the road washouts and the poultry farms being wiped out.
 
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40 chickens, free range and unmolested will provide 4 people enough basic protein to survive 5 months given there are enough carbohydrate sources available to
supplement the flock. I grew up on corn bread and fried egg sandwiches with sawmill bacon gravy. it tends to make what the doctors call "DEEP FAT" on your bones. its a good thing for hunter-gatherers to have!
 
Breeding is a problem, mainly because the jungle bird has been crossed thousands of time, as of date.
As for self-sufficient- with chickens, eggs, meat & some money from sale of egg & meat, plus layers has been done for hundreds of years.
As for milk, butter, cheese & sausage, you will need pigs & cows or goats.
Chickens & other poultry will be the easiest to start with, quail, ducks,turkey,goose,doves, to name a few.
 
There are very few self sufficient small farms. Growing animal feed and adequate pasture takes a lot of acres and machinery or sans machinery, some pretty strong and dedicated backs.

Even a small number of chickens will leave a bare, pock marked, bug free landscape in short order. They need supplemental feed.

The sad fact is, we don't live in great grandpa's time anymore. It is very difficult to even free range as everything is trying to eat your chickens before you can.

Feeding a breeding pair of pigs and offspring to weaning age and twenty chickens can burn up to 2 tons (4000 lbs) of feed per year. Then there is hay and bedding.

If you are buying feed and other inputs, you are not self sufficient.
 
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I should add, that none of the above, should prevent anyone from producing as much of their own food as possible. Just recognize that home grown will most likely cost more than commercially grown food. Anything you can do, like processing your own meat will not only keep costs down, but keep your home grown goodies out of the factory system.
 
I should add, that none of the above, should prevent anyone from producing as much of their own food as possible. Just recognize that home grown will most likely cost more than commercially grown food. Anything you can do, like processing your own meat will not only keep costs down, but keep your home grown goodies out of the factory system.
A side note to this -

The old timers had a saying in my neck of the woods. "Your corn walks off the farm". In the old days farmers kept the best of their (non hybrid) corn for seed and fed the rest to the hogs and cattle. That was the money maker. Any excess could be used for human consumption. With sufficient acres and fertile conditions, that concept could be made to work for a homesteader. But you'll still need equipment and facilities like a wagon and a granary. You need a way to grind it for feed. And you'll need a real strong back. Before mechanized farming an industrious fellow could pick about an acre a day by hand, and that was 50 bushels. Now we get 180 to 250 bushels/acre and we pick it 12 rows at a time, at 5mph, and the combine itself holds 300 bushels in its hopper. That's why you can buy corn so cheap now.

I don't really see a self sufficient homestead being feasible. I suppose the Amish are the closest thing there is to self sufficiency, and we can learn a lot from them. But can we really do it ourselves and live the kind of lives we want? I doubt most people can do it...
 
Joel Salatin rabbits and chickens feed is about 40% of his feed, the other 60% is bought from an organic feed store.
He is the best I have seen that had fat chickens.
I say fat, because as a child we had free range chicken with no chicken coop, they roasts in trees, the barn, the tool shed.
We lost a few to predators, they eat wild seeds, insects, cow/horse waste, cleaned up around the hog pin & rabbit cages.
What little food the dogs did not eat, we killed roaster in the late Spring, but they where never fat & tough when cooked.
So if you want fat chickens & you can not harvest a thousand pounds of grain, you will have to buy feed.
I researched books, blog,vlog, you tube & the only person who came close ran a compost process plant & let the chicken eat their full of insect for free. the chickens & eggs was a side business for him, with out the ton of compost, he would have bought feed.
There are hundred videos on how to mix you own feed & soaking food, feeding mice or BSF maggots as feed, garden waste.
But none of them raise all their food for the poultry.
 
If we ever get more land, oaks sound like the way to go. Ive never experienced them eating acorns as we dont have any oaks. I love the idea of using trees to feed. I wonder if there are other trees aside from fruit orchard trees. Honey locust maybe? Kousa dogwood?

Here is the current list of things i have found to grow or produce to provide a substantial year- round diet for ducks.

1. Winter squashes/ pumpkins ( consider getting your friends and neighbors’ pumpkins after the fall)
2. Potatoes (cooked)/ sweet potatoes [up to 50% of diet]
3. Acorns
4. Sunflower seeds (preferably sprouted)
5. Insects
6. Corn
7. Wheat/barley/oats
8. Alfalfa
9. Peas and legumes
10. Fruit trees
11. Duck weed ( needs a pond)
12. Brassicas like kale and cabbage
13. Amaranth
14. Comfrey
https://permies.com/t/102934/Feeding-ducks-grow#1363688
I found this, pick it apart, you may find something you can use.
 
Yesterday I decided to make a bowl of oatmeal. I have been fasting since August with one light meal a day. Fixed it and when pulled it out….weevils! Now I can eat a few, but this was lots. I had left it in cabinet too long. Took it out to coop and girls ate on that full canister of oatmeal all day. Weevils first and then oatmeal. Something to consider. I have seen them pick deer, ham or pork bones clean too. I do give them scratch daily, but creep feed lay pellets. During summer they get let out daily to free range when I get home.
 
I'm surprised about the acorns, they are bitter, and would have to be prepped. I had no luck feeding whole wheat to our ducks, but wheat grass and soaked wheat were ok.
Make a bowl of cooked spaghetti and feed it to your ducks. It is the funniest thing you ever saw.
You need water for duck weed, but not a large or deep water, a kiddies pool works great.
 
We don't have ducks now, but did in New Mexico. 20 of them. Had a number of wading pools going because they were easy to dump and put in clean water each day. They used them for swimming and drinking. We started out our big duck area with lots of growing greens, and seeded a bunch of wheat grass in there. They had that gone and down to dirt in a week. Enjoyed ducks. Fun to watch. Yummy to eat. Ours were good layers, too.
 
Yesterday I decided to make a bowl of oatmeal. I have been fasting since August with one light meal a day. Fixed it and when pulled it out….weevils! Now I can eat a few, but this was lots. I had left it in cabinet too long. Took it out to coop and girls ate on that full canister of oatmeal all day. Weevils first and then oatmeal. Something to consider. I have seen them pick deer, ham or pork bones clean too. I do give them scratch daily, but creep feed lay pellets. During summer they get let out daily to free range when I get home.
I've had weevils in my pantry. I am really trying to get everything into canning jars, instead of leaving it in the original packaging. Many years ago I had some potato flakes. I'm not sure why I had them, because we just didn't eat them. They were full of weevils as well. Gross, but good for the chickens.
 
We have been breeding superworms and I’ve started a worm compost bin. Adequate protein would be hard. I think I might try a little experiment this Spring with some chickens pellet fed and some free ranged and fed self sufficiently and see what happens. It’ll be a good science project for the boy 😉
 
I’m interested in raising and breeding our own chickens instead of buying them. I’m also interested in raising chickens feeding them only what’s produced or foraged for on our land. Am I crazy? Is anyone doing this or tried and ran into roadblocks? TIA!

I've been thinking about that, too. Also geese. And maybe turkeys.

We raise wheat on the farm. That's what my grandfather fed his chickens. Also, they got to roam around the farm in the daytime and he put them up at night.

If you do raise chickens, look into learning how to caponize the young roosters. You'll probably lose a few, especially at first, but you'd probably just kill most of them anyway. And with capons, you can cook and eat them and help keep more hens available for laying eggs.

I've never heard of anyone doing it, but I would bet that you could also caponize geese and turkeys as well, although they might call it something different.
 
Speaking of geese, they say that in the old days people in areas not good to raise pigs would raise geese so that they could render the fat to use in cooking. For some things, especially potatoes, goose fat is supposed to be about the best cooking fat around.

Duck fat is supposed to be good, too.

Goose is something that I have never eaten but would love to try. It's supposed to be very good except maybe for wild Canada Geese.
 
Speaking of geese, they say that in the old days people in areas not good to raise pigs would raise geese so that they could render the fat to use in cooking. For some things, especially potatoes, goose fat is supposed to be about the best cooking fat around.

Duck fat is supposed to be good, too.

Goose is something that I have never eaten but would love to try. It's supposed to be very good except maybe for wild Canada Geese.
I am not saying that what you was told is untrue, it just never heard of a place that not good for pigs. Well, down town NY,NY maybe.
Geese are good for so many things, guard dog, feathers, eggs, fat, meat, some will weed your garden.
Ducks lay longer than chicken in late fall, rabbits are good for lean meat, but you need fat, so chickens & other poultry can help with that.
I know a few people who raise quail & love them, I am more of a chicken man myself.
 
Pigs don't handle really cold temperatures very well. They need more and more feed to survive and it can stunt their growth. At some point, they couldn't eat enough to survive. You might be able to raise pigs in such conditions, but it would not be a very good idea.

Of course, these days you might be able to put them in a heated building. In the old days, that wasn't really an option.

Also, if you are raising piglets, you might have a lot of trouble keeping alive those born in or just before the winter.

When I was a kid in the 1950s and 1960s, we had the largest pig farm that I knew of in my general area. We had a special farrowing house for sows that had a better heating system than we did in the house. The farrowing house had central heat with ductwork to bring the heat to the individual pens. Our house had a single old-style gas stove in the living room that we shut off at night -- if the gas went out and then came back on, it would have filled the house full of non-odorized natural gas until someone noticed or a spark somewhere blew up the house. (I spent the night in a hospital on oxygen because of this once.)

Also, during the "Little Ice Age", temperatures were cooler. We can raise pigs further north today than a hundred (still warming up after the end of the Little Ice Age) or two hundred years ago. I'm not sure, but I think that during the Little Ice Age, pigs were far less common in Europe in mid-France and further north. In the US, places Maine, Vermont, New Hampshire, ... would probably have not been good for pigs.

Today, with a warming Earth (I'm strongly in favor of Global Warming -- the real danger is a colder Earth), farmers have been having better luck growing pigs in Canada.
 
If you have a breeding program, then no piglets in winter, however your point is taken.
Us southern boys have hunting wild hog for hundreds of year & find them under every swamp oak tree.
 
Us southern boys have hunting wild hog for hundreds of year & find them under every swamp oak tree.

There is one county in Texas without feral hogs. I thought it was my county since the creeks here rarely have water in them except after a big rain and it doesn't stay around long. It used to be possible to find areas along the creeks that had water most of the time, but with all the irrigation drawing down the aquifer, I wouldn't think any of them are still here.

I found an e-mail address for someone who is reputed to be an expert on the subject so I asked him by e-mail. If I remember correctly, he said the one county without feral hogs in El Paso County.
 
Out of curiosity, I did a web search for furry pigs. Guess what? The Mangalitsa pig looks rather sheeply.

Mangalitsa_Pig.jpg


Those might do better in cold weather than most pigs.

I don't think I ever heard of these before.
 

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