What slurry to use around plumbing pipes in cement foundation?

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INresponse

INresponse

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The house I am building is built on a cement slab and one bathroom has the bath drain pipes coming up through an opening in the cement about 12" wide and about 24" long. I want to mix up some sort of cement type slurry to pour into the opening to prevent critters from entering the house but I don't want it to be strong like cement. If needed in the future I would like it to be something I could easily break up and remove if I ever need to work on the drain pipes.

I currently have a couple inches of diatomaceous earth on the bottom of the opening but there are gophers burrowing in the yard on one side of the house and I don't want them to work their way into the house, as well as other ground critters.

Any advice on a mixture that would dry solid but would be soft enough to easily break apart if needed in the future? Could I add more sand to cement or maybe mortar to reduce the strength of the finished product?
 
If, If I had to tend to a leaking drain pipe from the bath tub I would not have more than a couple inches between the floor and the bottom of the tub. That is why I was thinking something that might crumble easier but still be solid enough to keep critters out.
 
INresponse said:
Thanks Ben. That is a good video, apparently spray foam isn't worth the effort but I don't think I can fill the opening I have with steel wool.
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Put the steel wool around the sides and bottom and then do the foam.

Ben
 
If I add additional sand into concrete or mortar mix will it make it softer and easy to chip away if needed?
Again, this area is not structural and the only strength it needs is to fill the void to keep critters out.
I know adding sand will require a bit more water and will increase the shrinkage but if I make small batches and pour about an inch at a time each subsequent layer will will the cracks of the prior layer.

I know this thought process is probably going against normal practice, I am just trying to work this out as an idea. I would rather not use the spray foam, I really dislike that stuff as it usually makes more of a mess then a solution.
 
Going through a concrete slab is easiest if you pour the concrete around the pipe. (pipe in place when you pour)
Filling the area around a pipe is hard to do and harder to undo. Making it pest proof really complicates the process.
Use mortar and not concrete. The cement in most mortar is weaker than the cement in concrete. The problem I see is getting at the mortar to break it up if you need to in the future. You are going to need enough room for a hammer and chisel. Picking it out with a scraper is going to be a long difficult job. I would suggest you use a slip fit drain from the tub into the pipe (it might be a little late if the pipe is already in place). That way you can remove the drain from the tub and move the tub out of the way to get at the pipe.
 
You can wrap your pipes with 1-1/2” or 2” inside diameter foam insulation for a drain & 1/2” for water pipes. This way the concrete won’t adhere to the pipes & will come out better.
 
The issue is the bathroom was originally planned with just a shower and when the slab was poured the pipe came up in the middle of the area, and when I switched to a bathtub I had to cut the slab and move the pipe over to reach the bathtub drain. That is why it is about 2 feet long and about 6 inches wide.
I did put a layer of diatomaceous earth but I don't think that will stop larger critters.
It had been a while since I looked at it so I took a picture just now...... the white pipe is partially buried. I guess I can cement over the white pipe and just make sure the end the black pipe connects to stays above the cement. Thinking about it now after looking it over I guess I wont ever need to move or access the white drain pip in the floor unless I rebuild the bathroom, which I probably wont ever do.
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INresponse said:
The issue is the bathroom was originally planned with just a shower and when the slab was poured the pipe came up in the middle of the area, and when I switched to a bathtub I had to cut the slab and move the pipe over to reach the bathtub drain. That is why it is about 2 feet long and about 6 inches wide.
I did put a layer of diatomaceous earth but I don't think that will stop larger critters.
It had been a while since I looked at it so I took a picture just now...... the white pipe is partially buried. I guess I can cement over the white pipe and just make sure the end the black pipe connects to stays above the cement. Thinking about it now after looking it over I guess I wont ever need to move or access the white drain pip in the floor unless I rebuild the bathroom, which I probably wont ever do.
View attachment 69074
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mortar mixed with sand grumbles nicely.

Pur steel wool or hardware cloth around the perimeter and bottom

Q
What is the story behind that timber on the left edge of that image?

Not that I have dealt with timbers laying the dirt mind you. :rolleyes:

Ben
 
Neb said:
mortar mixed with sand grumbles nicely.

Pur steel wool or hardware cloth around the perimeter and bottom

Q
What is the story behind that timber on the left edge of that image?

Not that I have dealt with timbers laying the dirt mind you. :rolleyes:

Ben
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I raised the tub 1.5", placing it on 2x4's instead of on the floor. Being tall I wanted the tub a bit higher, just something I wanted to do. Same reason I used kitchen cabinets instead of vanities in the bathroom. A couple inches higher so you don't have to bend over so far to wash your face, and a little deeper for added storage under the sink. When I designed my home I considered everything, so most doorways are 34" or 36" wide, the stairs are 4' wide, bathrooms are 8'x8', and all closets are walk in with wide doors, all in case someday a wheelchair is needed by me or the next owner. Extra outlets on most walls, most circuits are 20 amp. 2x6 walls for added insulation and insulation on interior bedroom walls for sound suppression.
 
kd4ulw said:
Just a thought, plaster of paris. Could bust it out with a hammer and screwdriver if need be.
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I thought of that. Do you think it would keep out moles?
The dirt around here gets hard like concrete when dry and the moles so far are only appearing in areas with ground cover that are watered.I think they would have a hard time digging under the foundation where it is dry but I don't want to chance it, plus the ants around here are relentless in the summer, but the drain is about 20 feet from any exterior wall.
 
kd4ulw said:
I would try it. If it didn’t work it wouldn’t be too hard to bust it out.
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I think that may be the way I go. I had briefly thought of using plaster but thought it might be kinda soft, but since I am working with drywall right now I think the wimpy gypsum board had me thinking it would be too soft, but now thinking back to my parents house when i was growing up I remember the plaster walls were pretty yard, much harder than drywall. Thank you for mentioning plaster, I will mix up a small batch and let it dry and see how hard it will get. The good thing about plaster is if I ever have to chip it away I think water will soften it and allow it to clean off easier.
 
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