What to look for in a tractor?

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I appreciate all the input. We have decided to keep looking for land, so I have more time for homework before buying a tractor.

I saw a lot of good advice. There was also several things posted that made me reevaluate options that I previously discarded, such as a cab.
 
We found our land. Although has different terrain than the last one we tried to buy, many of the needs are the same. We will have a long road which will need to be improved and maintained. There is a substantial amount of brush that needs to be removed for a pond and general clean up.

Looks like a front loader and box blade will be in near continual use over time.

I like the idea of the Danuser Intimidator. It would be a big help the first several years. Unfortunately, I don't see them used in my area.
 
We will close in three weeks.

:woo hoo::woo hoo::woo hoo:

Really happy for you! (and praying for an easy transaction for all involved)
We closed on three adjoining tracts of land in Oct, Nov, and Dec. - it's the best feeling in the world to know where we'll "end up" (retire - or sooner) and be able to work on it now, to get it the way we want it to be. Sounds like you & your wife and my husband & myself are on the same journey.
 
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I spent some time in John Deere tractor seats today. The person that talked about ergonomics was dead on. The 5E series doesn't fit a 6'5" person as well as the 5M series. I found the control layout of the bigger tractor much easier to use. There significant difference in cost between a 5045/55/65/75 and the 5085.

Dealer recommended a root grapple for the types of invasive trees in my area. He had not heard about the Danuser, but thought is was a good idea.
 
I spent some time in John Deere tractor seats today. The person that talked about ergonomics was dead on. The 5E series doesn't fit a 6'5" person as well as the 5M series. I found the control layout of the bigger tractor much easier to use. There significant difference in cost between a 5045/55/65/75 and the 5085.

Dealer recommended a root grapple for the types of invasive trees in my area. He had not heard about the Danuser, but thought is was a good idea.
I bought one of these OWL. I would have never got done here without it. Best investment ever. http://www.terraforceinc.com/root_grapple
 
Bought a JD 5085E today. I was hoping I could fit in a 5065E with the Power Reverser transmission because it has a tilt steering wheel. Unfortunately, I cannot fit my 6'5" frame in the seat and comfortably operate the tractor. My wife has mobility limitations and was not able to pull herself up on to the tractor. The 85E not only fit me better, but she found it much easier to get on to.

We will pick it up is a few weeks after we close on the property. They need a little time to plumb for the root grapple and order the grapple and a box blade.
 
I'm looking at buying 2 tractors as mentioned above. One 100+ hp tractor/loader and a compact 30-35 hp tractor for actually doing the majority of the work. I will also need the implements for the compact. I'm looking at something like perhaps the JD 850, 950, or 10,50. Basically a non computer model. Even the Ford 1700, 1710, 1900, 1910, or 1920 so long as it has a loader. 4x4 being preferred. I'm not afraid to buy a Yanmar 30 hp tractor/loader either. For the large tractor/loader I have gravitated from the John Deere to I think an International 1066, 1086, 1206, etc. Perhaps a 766 or 966 although they are not qute as bit. I have ben studying the differences in models, but I prefer a +100 hp tractor/loader. Looking presently at a 1456. And then! I found the Black Stripe Edition. Should be an interesting next couple of months. I hope everyone enjoys a very Merry Christmas.
 
Some fine selections in your list.
In the JD line, if you spot a 770, 870, 970... those are really good, tough tractors as well. Yea, I'd go with 4WD on any/all of your selections.
Yanmar engines are darn near bulletproof. BTW, as I recall, all the JD compact tractors you and I have mentioned are all built by Yanmar.
 
Researching the JDs is what turned me onto the Yanmar. I suspect that in the end I will buy a Yanmar as well because it seems their owners like selling all the implements with the tractor. If I find a suitable John Deere, pick up the Yanmar and extras, keeps the extras, deal the Yanmar (Or not), I will then have the compact tractor situation set.
 
I'm looking at buying 2 tractors as mentioned above. One 100+ hp tractor/loader and a compact 30-35 hp tractor for actually doing the majority of the work. I will also need the implements for the compact. I'm looking at something like perhaps the JD 850, 950, or 10,50. Basically a non computer model. Even the Ford 1700, 1710, 1900, 1910, or 1920 so long as it has a loader. 4x4 being preferred. I'm not afraid to buy a Yanmar 30 hp tractor/loader either. For the large tractor/loader I have gravitated from the John Deere to I think an International 1066, 1086, 1206, etc. Perhaps a 766 or 966 although they are not qute as bit. I have ben studying the differences in models, but I prefer a +100 hp tractor/loader. Looking presently at a 1456. And then! I found the Black Stripe Edition. Should be an interesting next couple of months. I hope everyone enjoys a very Merry Christmas.
Something to remember with basically all American tractors built in the late 70s or early 80s, except for John Deere - the quality of these models is generally a little lower. For example, the IH 60 series (966, 1066, etc) seem to have been made with better components and QC than the 80 series (986, 1086, etc). This applies to Case, Allis Chalmers, IH, White, Massey, and the rest. All these companies were having financial issues in that time period.

I am a big fan of JD tractors. I grew up with them. We had a 4010 and a 4020 when I was a kid. The 4020 is still around although currently something is wrong in the electrical system so it's not being used. My brother runs the farm and has 5 other JD tractors from 140 HP to 200 HP so we really don't need it. He also has a pair of old Oliver tractors, a 1650 (70HP) and an 1850 (100HP) and these get used to run augers and bale hay. The Olivers are a decent option and way cheaper if you have parts available and can work on them. The Ollie engines are fantastic. The hydraulics, transmissions, and rear ends don't hold up as well as a JD though.

Good luck on your search. I wouldnt be afraid of a IH 966 or 1066 if it's been maintained. Beware of the TA going bad though. I'm not sure if those still had the TA on them but it's a real weak point in the transmission...
 
I have a small homestead at ten acres so I wasn't looking for anything too large. Ended up purchasing two 1948 Ford 8N's, one that runs and one for parts. Old but tough as nails, and at 25-30hp is probably all I'm going to need. Putting the other front tire on tomorrow but still have to replace the brake shoes, rear hub seals, and do engine oil and transmission gear oil changes. Still make brand new parts for this model as well, and they are very common where I live where most farms are small, family-run operations and not for profit.
There's quite a few dealers close by: Kubota, Tri-Green, L&S, and Mahindra. Was thinking about one day getting something newer and restoring the 8N as a showpiece.
 
I have a small homestead at ten acres so I wasn't looking for anything too large. Ended up purchasing two 1948 Ford 8N's, one that runs and one for parts. Old but tough as nails, and at 25-30hp is probably all I'm going to need. Putting the other front tire on tomorrow but still have to replace the brake shoes, rear hub seals, and do engine oil and transmission gear oil changes. Still make brand new parts for this model as well, and they are very common where I live where most farms are small, family-run operations and not for profit.
There's quite a few dealers close by: Kubota, Tri-Green, L&S, and Mahindra. Was thinking about one day getting something newer and restoring the 8N as a showpiece.
Ah, the old 8N's :D. They were everywhere in Bama and I worked on hundreds back in the late 70's.
Since they were Fords and I was a diehard Chevy fan, I never admitted how great they were.:(
The only weak part I remember was the distributor, it would lock up and strip the gear on the cam. Big problem!:mad:
Being a lazy guy, I found a shortcut.:)
To change the cam, you had to tear the front end off, pull the engine and put it upside down on the work bench so the lifters didn't fall into the oil pan when you pulled the cam out. A lot of work!
We had an overhead I-beam trolley over the service bay. I would remove the radiator and front gear cover.
Then I would hook chains to the front axle and string it up a little past vertical.
Up a ladder and out comes the old cam, and the new one slides in.:thumbs:
I cut the labor by 75%. Never underestimate the ability of a lazy person to find the easiest way.;)
...The boss still charged them the book quote though. (and pocketed the rest) :confused:.

Edit: And if this little gold cup doesn't get a few drops of oil for years and years, the above happens :confused:.
41sq5Y4tGTL_kindlephoto-2997973687.jpg
 
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Ah, the old 8N's :D. They were everywhere in Bama and I worked on hundreds back in the late 70's.
Since they were Fords and I was a diehard Chevy fan, I never admitted how great they were.:(
The only weak part I remember was the distributor, it would lock up and strip the gear on the cam. Big problem!:mad:
Being a lazy guy, I found a shortcut.:)
To change the cam, you had to tear the front end off, pull the engine and put it upside down on the work bench so the lifters didn't fall into the oil pan when you pulled the cam out. A lot of work!
We had an overhead I-beam trolley over the service bay. I would remove the radiator and front gear cover.
Then I would hook chains to the front axle and string it up a little past vertical.
Up a ladder and out comes the old cam, and the new one slides in.:thumbs:
I cut the labor by 75%. Never underestimate the ability of a lazy person to find the easiest way.;)
...The boss still charged them the book quote though. (and pocketed the rest) :confused:.

Edit: And if this little gold cup doesn't get a few drops of oil for years and years, the above happens :confused:.
View attachment 101436
Thanks for that info. You just put the normal engine oil in it?
 
Thanks for that info. You just put the normal engine oil in it?
Yeah.
But you need to do it at least every couple years.
When the old-fashioned oil-squirter cans went away, 8N's started dying. :confused:
409-9.jpg

Edit: And the generators had 2 oil cups on them, one at each end of the shaft.
Back one at 11:00, front one at 1:30.
a113232.jpg
 
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Yeah.
But you need to do it at least every couple years.
When the old-fashioned oil-squirter cans went away, 8N's started dying. :confused:
409-9.jpg

Edit: And the generators had 2 oil cups on them, one at each end of the shaft.
Back one at 11:00, front one at 1:30.
a113232.jpg
I have the 12v conversion on mine but I'll definitely put some oil in the distributor when I change it.
 
There is an 8n up the road. I think someone abandoned it. I knew the old man who had owned it for decades. Even know why Mr. Harry parked it, a transmission issue. When he died I went to the funeral. Didn't think about that old tractor until I saw it'd been moved.

Then I saw it in the yard of an old mobile home. Someone had lived in that trailer a long time. They never got the 8n running.

Couple months ago I noticed that trailer is starting to look abandoned, along with that 8n. Even the dog is gone... But I really don't need another project. Besides, it'd take a week to clean out my shop and make room for it. 😁Decisions, decisions.

This is in my cousins yard, his dad's old IH 966. I remember running it as a teenager, strong tractor. I preferred JD4020's though.

966 Int a  (1).JPG
 
While we are talking old tractors, make sure the engine oil you use has an additive package to support flat lifter cams, IE CD up to CI rated oil meant for diesels, don't let an "expert" talk you into the oil designed for modern gas engines.
 

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