Building a small log cabin

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DrHenley

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Jan 6, 2022
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I want to build a one bedroom log cabin from trees on my land. Right now I am playing with a 16'x24' layout with a loft. I know the red oaks generally aren't great for external use, but I have MANY nuttall oaks the right size (and they need thinning). They were planted 35 years ago very densely and grew slowly so they have much more heartwood than normal. And because they grow so close together, the lower limbs mostly atrophied and fell off.
I also have an abundance of small maples and sweet gums, but the nuttalls need thinning anyway to let some sunlight in for ground cover.

So let's say I can cut plenty of straight trees at whatever size I want. I guess I need to get them to a sawmill to be squared up, or maybe just debarked? And then kiln dried.

What's next? Any suggestions on the size, both of the trees to cut and final hewn size. I would like to use butt and pass construction, and will probably build on a slab. Can I have the bottom of the walls something like concrete blocks?

Here is the current working layout:
ngheoli.png
 
I wish I could help you with the trees that are native to your area. Where I am at, log cabins from locally sourced trees are all spruce. The trees are debark shortly after being cut down, then ideally cured before construction. I recall many of the cabins in Appalachia were milled, or squared up as you put it. I recall most logs used were chestnut, oak, popular and spruce, but that was a long time ago. I am sure there are more knowledgable folks than me who can help you out. I like your design!
 
We built our 16x24 with 10' tall walls so we could have an upstairs. Built with 3 sided 6" logs. We like having the extra room upstairs. My wife has foot problems. We have ladder stairs and I would like to add a chair lift. 12v atv winch as a lifting source.
I saw a friend's log home from oak n it was gorgeous. I would recommend planing or sanding the inside wall so it's smooth n won't hold dust. Can be wiped down easily.
I am putting a sand point well in for water. It is strategicly placed under the kitchen cabinets so I can run water to the kitchen sink easier. I have a 12v water pump. Running water in the kitchen. We're remote so having water is a big deal.
A couple pictures of ours
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Also would add. For me I bought new materials, windows n such. As I feel I want my investment to hold it's value better as everything works. And I don't have to go back n fix things. And materials are available as I need them with known costs. As opposed to building with second hand materials. Both good and much better than nothing. Just different ways n means
 
We built a 16 x 24 one-room, one level cabin (stick built, not logs). It has 11 windows for cooling on hot days. It has a woodstove for heating on cold days.

We get our water from a hand pump well. We heat the water on the cookstove or woodstove.

We have an outhouse for a bathroom.

We light the cabin with Aladdin lamps and a PetroMax lantern.

We use two futons as couches and double beds.

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I want to build a one bedroom log cabin from trees on my land. Right now I am playing with a 16'x24' layout with a loft. I know the red oaks generally aren't great for external use, but I have MANY nuttall oaks the right size (and they need thinning). They were planted 35 years ago very densely and grew slowly so they have much more heartwood than normal. And because they grow so close together, the lower limbs mostly atrophied and fell off.
I also have an abundance of small maples and sweet gums, but the nuttalls need thinning anyway to let some sunlight in for ground cover.

So let's say I can cut plenty of straight trees at whatever size I want. I guess I need to get them to a sawmill to be squared up, or maybe just debarked? And then kiln dried.

What's next? Any suggestions on the size, both of the trees to cut and final hewn size. I would like to use butt and pass construction, and will probably build on a slab. Can I have the bottom of the walls something like concrete blocks?

Here is the current working layout:
ngheoli.png
Haven't read all the input here, but will add a couple resources.
My Old Log Cabin within this thread, I "think" I mentioned but just in case I didn't: Noah Bradley at Handmade Houses is a great resource. He will also answer questions if you email him (or at least has in the past.)
Also, this is probably overkill for you but interesting from a building perspective:
This is just one episode, there are others that might be more appropriate for the info you are seeking.
 
@Cabin Fever that's beautiful. What kind of insulation does the floor have? I would think the wind would suck a lot of heat out of the cabin underneath...
The floor has 2x12 joists. Between the joists are two layers of 6" fiberglass insulation. The insulation is protected by 1/4" plywood fastened to the bottoms of the joists.

It can be -25ºF outside and we still have to crack a window to keep the cabin below 80ºF.
 
The floor has 2x12 joists. Between the joists are two layers of 6" fiberglass insulation. The insulation is protected by 1/4" plywood fastened to the bottoms of the joists.

It can be -25ºF outside and we still have to crack a window to keep the cabin below 80ºF.
Nice. I used to live in a mobile home on unprotected high ground, if memory serves it had R19 floor insulation. With Iowa wind it felt like R190 wouldn't have been enough...
 
I can't add one iota of anything constructive to this thread, but all of you guys do phenomenal work. You have all done a marvelous job, and I really enjoy all the photos. Thanks for sharing, and keep up the great work.
 
Log construction manual by Robert W chambers has a lot of construction, and selection information in it, most of it is based on scribe fitted work, how to deal with bow etc. well worth the investment.
 
I looked at the floor plan. Where is the woodstove, water heater, and pressure tank going to go?
That layout is for a gas stove and sleeps six (fold out couch). With a wood stove or fireplace I haven't figured out where to put the full sized couch and might have to go to a ladder instead of stairs. I'm still playing around with a couple of other layouts with that in mind.

The water heater is the round thing in the corner. Don't need pressure tank or pump, we have an artesian well. However, I could put a pressure tank upstairs if the pressure from the well goes down too much. The pressure has dropped noticeably over the several decades since we drilled it. There is a large 4 bedroom cabin on the artesian well that uses an automatic pump to jack up the pressure, but I can't really tell much difference between the pump on and the pump off.
 
Here is one I built when I was 19 year old. The logs were dragged in place with a mule. I peeled them and built with then. Could not wait for them to dry. I have never built with dry logs. I have built several log cabins.

My son in law just built a cabin with milled logs,basically butt and pass. I dont have a photo of hos.

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There is also skirting with patterns on it that look like blocks or like stone. It's pricey but it seems to insulate better than the plastic stuff, which is basically just soffit..
I think I have seen that. It is definitely more attractive that some of the alternatives.

I have also seen bales of hay or straw, and have thought that if I had a place that was open underneath, that is what I would use. I never thought about mice being a problem, but I can so see that happening.
 
This is one of my Fav 'channels' for cabin-inspiration.. https://www.youtube.com/c/ShawnJamesMySelfReliance
..And Yah - you Absolutely Can 'DIY'..

:cool: Sticktuitiveness.. 👍

jd

I watched almost all of his videos when he built that cabin. I used to watch a lot of DIY on YouTube, but not so much now. He had some bad neighbors move in and has purchased some land and is building yet another cabin. You probably already know that.

I've always wanted to build my own log cabin, but I know I am greatly lacking in the ability to do so.
 
Thanks for the suggestions, but there are a couple of things...
The climate calls for some extra precautions. Pests, both of the furry and insect varieties will wreak havoc if you don't take precautions.
Oak doesn't "peel", and if you leave oak logs laying around - even covered - with the bark on, you'll get borer beetles making Swiss cheese out of the logs in no time.
Straw bales are out of the question. Rats are a huge problem. There cannot be anything on the outside of the cabin where rats or mice can hide or dwell, and there cannot be any place for rats or mice to enter, or any crack even in the walls that they can then enlarge into a hole. I'll probably need to line the door and door frame with steel strips to keep them from chewing a hole through between the door and door frame. Plastic, vinyl, or anything else that rats can chew through on the exterior is out of the question.
These rats, how shall I describe? Let's put it this way, you know the large Victor rat traps? When a rat gets "caught" in one of them they just run off with the trap on their head and eventually wriggle out of it. I've watched it...
 
These rats, how shall I describe? Let's put it this way, you know the large Victor rat traps? When a rat gets "caught" in one of them they just run off with the trap on their head and eventually wriggle out of it. I've watched it...
I believe this. I have never seen a live rat in the wild or city, but I have seen photos and videos of them. It is believable that a rat that size can do a lot of damage.
 
I don't know what kind of rat these are, they look to me more like some sort of woodland creatures with furry tails and shorter snouts than your typical sewer rat.
But boy can they get big, and tough.

Should be a pack rat (Eastern Woodrat) but they don't exactly fit the descriptions I've read. They certainly behave like pack rats, stealing everything they can get through their entrance holes.

I watched one try to drag a 1 pound 4 1/2"x 4 1/2" block of rat poison through a hole in the floor. Yeah, they ate a hole right through the floor and carpet. It was behind an easy chair so we missed it until we saw a rat come out while we were there. I had been breaking the rat poison blocks into 1/4 pound narrow pieces, and every time we put them out they'd be gone within hours. No sign of them being chewed like little bits and pieces, just gone. So I put a whole block out just to see what happened and we caught one in the act.
 
We wondered why we weren't seeing or smelling any dead rats after the rats took many pounds of rat poison. They were carting them off to their dens apparently.

There are no domestic animals of any kind within miles of the place. In the vicinity of the cabin, the primary rat predators are cottonmouths. I have no idea what eating a poisoned rat does to a cottonmouth, but I won't shed any tears for them regardless!
 
I also had to take critters big n small from getting into the cabin into consideration. I used refurbished utility poles. Cedar poles the are treated with stuff bugs don't like. I built the floor 4' off the ground. So windows would be 7' up. And harder for bears to reach. I have 12" galvanized sheet metal to put on the poles to keep things from cawling up them.
I also feed the spruce hen grouse that live around here sunflower seeds. Salted peanuts eaten off the porch They like the dirt under the cabin. And will destroy any shrew that they see. Like a wild chicken. So maybe try to attract wildlife that would prey on them. Or raise chickens. I like having martin around to take out the squirrels. Owl boxes may help you.
 
Opossums are generally very gentle. They can’t get rabies and eat lots of ticks and insects. We do not kill them on our property. Our log cabin was built out of bald cypress from a kit. Husband changed up floor plans so we bought more material. Built on concrete slab. Took 9 months to build it. Moved in 1978 and lived there for 19 years. Raised 5 girls there. No problems hanging cast iron on those walls. Loved house, hated location. It was on a highway.
 

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