Hardening your home against attack

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TexPrep

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Joined
Mar 18, 2022
Messages
550
Our house is somewhat large at around 5k square foot.
The problem is the number of windows. They're everywhere on the bottom as well as the second story and we dont have a room that would give you views front and back.
On the plus side it's all brick construction. Our first thoughts are protecting our resources which would be the main goal.
Other than boarding up all the lower windows we're kind of at a loss on how to go about it.
There's the nail boards just inside the windows but other than that what else can be done?
 
If you are trying to protect, why wait til they are trying to get in? I have a plan to stop them 800 ft away.

From your vague description, I would say functional shutters.
 
First, screws, not nails; long screws, that go into the studs on either side of the windows. Second, and more importantly, motion sensors outside that tell you somone is coming and in what zone. Motion lights, so you can see them and they cannot see you. bars for your doors, so nobody can get in. I go drop bars with 3/8 lag bolts going into the studs, and a solid hardwood 2x4 to hold. All screws in your strike plates and hinges should be at least 3 1/2 inches long.
 
I would need to know more, like size of property, type of neighborhood and general location.

It's your basic neighborhood.
The size of the lot is pretty small and the house takes up the majority of it.
It's a wealthy neighborhood located in Katy Texas. While it's a gated community that goes out the window if things go bad.
The best thing you can say about it is you're one house out of a bunch of houses so you getting targeted isnt likely to happen.
 
First, screws, not nails; long screws, that go into the studs on either side of the windows. Second, and more importantly, motion sensors outside that tell you somone is coming and in what zone. Motion lights, so you can see them and they cannot see you. bars for your doors, so nobody can get in. I go drop bars with 3/8 lag bolts going into the studs, and a solid hardwood 2x4 to hold. All screws in your strike plates and hinges should be at least 3 1/2 inches long.

Motion sensors are great as long as you have power and we have motion sensor lights around the whole house.
We already have cameras that cover all approaches to the house and of course a couple of large Boxers.
Bars won't fly the due to the HOA.
At this point we're looking at fortifying a section of the house where we keep our preps.
 
Security film will provide some measure of deterrence from common type burglars but will not stop a MAD MAX type assaults. Decorative steel rollup shutters will provide fast and very secure window coverings. Lights, security cameras with backup power, steel doors and hardened screw fasteners (as mentioned previously by other members) will buy you time. No modern home can be defended if attacked by a large enough force. Bottom line, if serious attackers get to your door step, you will not be able to stop entry. To successfully defend against an assaults, you must stop them before they get to your dwelling. No defense that would be effective is legal during normal times. Lethal booby traps would be required around your perimeters and I do not know of anyplace that would allow that. Either have a bug out plan and location or plan to be the Alamo. The best you can hope for is to cause enough death and injury before they get into you home.
 
Motion sensors are great as long as you have power and we have motion sensor lights around the whole house.
We already have cameras that cover all approaches to the house and of course a couple of large Boxers.
Bars won't fly the due to the HOA.
At this point we're looking at fortifying a section of the house where we keep our preps.

On the inside.

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First, screws, not nails; long screws, that go into the studs on either side of the windows. Second, and more importantly, motion sensors outside that tell you somone is coming and in what zone. Motion lights, so you can see them and they cannot see you. bars for your doors, so nobody can get in. I go drop bars with 3/8 lag bolts going into the studs, and a solid hardwood 2x4 to hold. All screws in your strike plates and hinges should be at least 3 1/2 inches long.

I know how to build sturdy stuff and havent used nails for anything I build in decades.
I also know how to weld which would make an even stronger structure.
 
grow thick thorny bushes on the perimeter so you can funnel any uninvited "guests" into one specific area where they can then be dealt with.
lethal traps can be erected AFTER TSHTF, most places wouldnt allow them at this time.
 
for boarding up windows look to the professionals - study the methods & products available for hurricane protection >>> that'll take you the first step in boarding up materials and the hardware for hanging - sturdy materials and a quik organized procedure/method is an absolute MUST !!!

second step is the security concern - hurricane type protection isn't necessarily good enough for a determined guy with a crowbar >>> I recommend an interior bracing - a single and/or double across-the-window 2" X 4" bar - a DIY "bolt" using threaded rod and large plate washers as the fastening hardware - the type of window will determine if this is possible >>> large plate glass picture window is a nada - double hungs are a go - crank casements can be dismounted for access - jalousie cranks can be modified to work ...

if you want to go with the exterior screw down as a last minute emergency measure, necessary because of the window type or you just prefer the more simple method >>> screw and nail heads can be pulled thru the board up sheathing with enough applied strength - need large plate washers as backers - also a mixed variety of screw head types & hex head lags will retard any attempts to simply unscrew the board up ...

if you have a second story for observation & defense - 1st story window "loopholes" built into the board up sheets aren't as critical - they need to lockable & sturdily designed - able to just poke a gun barrel thru from the outside will get someone killed ...

a bug-in should be part of everyone's prep plan - being able to bug out just isn't a 100% possibility >>> and boarding up is a critical part of bugging in - along with a fire fighting plan and a defense strategy ....

note - ANY advice about boarding up from the inside - trying to hide the prep procedure with all kinds of BS - not boarding up at all - trying to pull any "damaged & abandoned cons >> there's going to be looters - scavagers looking for a meal & shelter - and the just plain nutz & social misfits >>> they are going thru the homes - only a firm resistance is going to deter them - all kinds of wide open and truly abandoned homes will be all over - INVITING them into a confronting situation is just asking for unwanted & un-needed combat - not anything you want ...
 
Our house is somewhat large at around 5k square foot.
The problem is the number of windows. They're everywhere on the bottom as well as the second story and we dont have a room that would give you views front and back.
On the plus side it's all brick construction. Our first thoughts are protecting our resources which would be the main goal.
Other than boarding up all the lower windows we're kind of at a loss on how to go about it.
There's the nail boards just inside the windows but other than that what else can be done?
It would cost a small fortune to install fortified shutters.
Motion sensors are great as long as you have power and we have motion sensor lights around the whole house.
We already have cameras that cover all approaches to the house and of course a couple of large Boxers.
Bars won't fly the due to the HOA.
At this point we're looking at fortifying a section of the house where we keep our preps.
All of our doors have glass so those are pretty much worthless in our situation.


Maybe you should just remove your "Welcome" mat
 
Our house is somewhat large at around 5k square foot.
The problem is the number of windows. They're everywhere on the bottom as well as the second story and we dont have a room that would give you views front and back.
On the plus side it's all brick construction. Our first thoughts are protecting our resources which would be the main goal.
Other than boarding up all the lower windows we're kind of at a loss on how to go about it.
There's the nail boards just inside the windows but other than that what else can be done?
unless you are very attached to that area, you should consider getting out in the country,,,
being a ritzy area, it will be among the first areas looted you kind of have a target on you,,,

40 acres or more and build at the back of the property out of sight of the road and the driveway should not be a straight shot in,,,, a cable or gate across the drive will stop most nosey people
 
unless you are very attached to that area, you should consider getting out in the country,,,
being a ritzy area, it will be among the first areas looted you kind of have a target on you,,,

40 acres or more and build at the back of the property out of sight of the road and the driveway should not be a straight shot in,,,, a cable or gate across the drive will stop most nosey people

We have a lease on 6k acres with live springs plenty of fish and game and a new camper to park on it.
We're also looking to buy 50 acres for retirement and a bug out place that we actually own rather than lease.
 
Surely someone makes security window frames of hardened steel? Paint the steel frame and how would anyone know that it was actually "bars"?

They do make glass thats pretty much impervious to sledge hammers and the like but they're expensive as hell.
And with over 30 windows on the bottom floor the price would be huge.
Especially since we're not going to be living here much longer.
 
unless you are very attached to that area, you should consider getting out in the country,,,
being a ritzy area, it will be among the first areas looted you kind of have a target on you,,,

40 acres or more and build at the back of the property out of sight of the road and the driveway should not be a straight shot in,,,, a cable or gate across the drive will stop most nosey people

We do have a 6k acre lease that's perfect for bugging out but I dont want to count on it since I dont own it even though the guy that does said we were welcome if the worst were to happen.
We're in the process of looking for 50 acres or so to retire on and as a bug out location.
And definitely would build as far back as to be invisible from the road.
 
Define "untenable" OP. I would start with three vicious appearing dogs. It is assumed you have some sort of wall or fence to contain the dogs. My suspicion is by the time you think it is untenable, it will be too late. Perhaps the best thing is to persuade the first wave of looters to visit your neighbor instead of you, giving you time to leave.
 
Define "untenable" OP. I would start with three vicious appearing dogs. It is assumed you have some sort of wall or fence to contain the dogs. My suspicion is by the time you think it is untenable, it will be too late. Perhaps the best thing is to persuade the first wave of looters to visit your neighbor instead of you, giving you time to leave.

We live on the west side of Houston in Katy so getting out of town would only take 20 minutes driving time.
As far as making them think twice goes that shouldnt be a problem but being in Texas most of us have guns so that would be a deterrent on a larger scale.
And we already have two big Boxers which are very territorial.
 

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