How To Start A Fire In Challenging Conditions

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Sentry18

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https://www.survivopedia.com/how-to-start-a-fire-in-challenging-conditions/


How To Start A Fire In Challenging Conditions
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By
Bob Rodgers
November 21, 2019

Starting a fire should be a primary skill for every survivalist or outdoors enthusiast.

After all, the ability to make a fire in the wild provides great emotional comfort. Besides keeping you warm and allowing you to cook food or boil water, a campfire provides a state of tranquility that is much needed when things seem desperate.

3 Second SEAL Test Will Tell You If You’ll Survive A SHTF Situation
While starting a fire in the wilderness might not seem such a big deal, we must acknowledge that things will not always go as planned. In fact, there’s little to no information about what survivors should do to start a fire in challenging situations.

You need to test your ability to make and maintain a fire under various weather conditions and challenging situations. Below are a few scenarios that will put your skills to the test. These are not scenarios that I’ve made up, and in fact, I’ve learned how to test my fire making skills a few years ago when attending a survival course in the Rocky Mountains.

What I also learned was that some people might react to similar challenges with an emotional response rather than a pragmatic and logical solution. I recommend you do these tests without cheating and in a proper environment since real-world scenarios create high stress and you will be put to the test.

Even experienced survivalists or preppers can be challenged by these methods, and it will help them develop their fire starting skills even more.

Situations challenging your fire-starting skills
Start a fire with cold and wet hands
In the wilderness, slipping through the ice in the spring or capsizing in a canoe are common accidents. Cold water immersion will remove heat from your body in a matter of minutes. To not freeze to death or catch hypothermia, you will need to start a fire as quickly as possible.

In such scenarios, you will have to start a fire when you are cold, and your hands are borderline numb. I advise you not to try this method in the wild unless you have a heat source ready and waiting for you.

To be on the safe side, I recommend doing this challenge in the safety of your own backyard. You can submerge your hands in an ice bucket. Also, if you want to increase the difficulty, you can take your fire starter and hold it in the icy water with your hands.

You will notice that when your hands are shaking, it is rather difficult to start a fire. To succeed, keep in mind the following:

  • Remove excess moisture from the hands
  • Remove moisture from the fire starting tools
  • Warm your hands a little bit. The fastest way to do so is by placing them under your armpits.
Starting a fire with just one match
This is a challenge I do with the various people I go camping with, and it’s both a fun and learning experience for them. The idea is to start a fire with a single match, a round of wood and a knife.

Many people will fail to succeed because the match will burn out too quickly and their wood splits won’t ignite.

To be able to ignite the fuel you have, you can approach the situation from various angles. Some will decide to split the match, while others will create fast-burning fuzz sticks using the knife.

The best way to do it is to know a thing or two about wood batoning or how to split larger pieces of wood using your knife and a piece of wood.

Once you manage to split the wood into smaller quarters, you will need to shave the smaller parts into fast catching fuzz sticks. You will need to pay attention since this will test your blade handling skills, and some people may injure themselves.

Also, to make sure the fire lasts for as long as needed, make sure you don’t use all your fuel logs at once, and establish prior to starting the fire, what campfire you need to build.

Starting a fire at night, in complete darkness
This may seem like a joke to some, but it’s actually a challenging situation, and I encourage you to try it. To make things as real as possible, I recommend going into the woods, at a considerable distance from your camp and try this.

You will need a dark night with little moonlight or light pollution since the challenge here is to build a fire without using a flashlight.

You will soon understand that making a fire based on feel alone rather than sight is very difficult. Not to mention that using your Ferro rod will disrupt your natural night vision. You will be blinded by the sparks, and your sight and aiming capacities will be impaired.

To succeed in starting the fire, the trick is not to look directly at your hands and tools, and use mainly your peripheral vision. Squinting your eyes will also help, and scrapping with the Ferro rod, rather than down into it will prevent you from disrupting the fire setup.

Starting a fire when injured
If you have experience exploring the great outdoors, you probably know by now that accidents happen in the wilderness. Most people will simply fall and hurt themselves since they are not using all their senses or watching their step. For the average humans, the typical reaction to failing is bracing the fall with their hand(s). In the majority of cases, this will result in a broken arm or injured wrist.

If you happen to find yourself in such a scenario, you will need to use a single hand (the healthy one) to start a fire. The challenge here would be to use only one hand and various fire starters.

Of course, that using a lighter should be no problem, but the situation changes drastically when you need to operate other fire-starting tools that would, in normal conditions, require the use of both hands.

Since there are many ways to start a fire, I recommend you try this for yourself and use your imagination. For example, if you have a metal match, you can use your feet to hold the scraper and use your good hand to handle the rod. Another example would be to use your Ferro rod by holding it down near the tinder with your boot and use the striker with the functioning hand.

You will notice that both scenarios require patience and attention to avoid knocking over the tinder or injuring yourself.

Using the two is one, one is none rule
During the winter season, making a fire is even more challenging. Snow falling from above evergreen and damp ground can ruin your fire setup and make way for frustration to settle in. This scenario may seem easy for experienced campers or survivalist, but for some, it can be quite a challenge. The idea here is to throw water or snow over a fire that is lit but hasn’t settled yet.

Depending on the construction, some fire setups will shed water and shield the flame while others will be exhausted. You will have to re-light the fire as quickly as possible without wasting precious time.

The solution here is a simple one, but many fail to see it because they only focus on the end result rather than on the ongoing process. The two is one, and one is none rule is simple, and it means that one should never use all the fire-starting material in a single effort and leave some aside in case they need to re-light the fire.
 
A final challenge – Fire signaling
This is more like a team activity, and it’s one of the survival training exercises I’ve learned that involves more than one person. Divide your camping group into teams of two or three people and ask them to build a fire that needs to reach a certain height in an established time frame.

The idea behind this training is to learn to start a noticeable signal fire in a short amount of time to have better chances of being rescued.

Attach a paracord or rope between two trees or posts, and the fire that is hot and high enough to burn through the paracord wins. To make this even more challenging and difficult, when a team is making the fire, a neutral party or the other teams should add pressure on them to increase their stress level.

Mistakes will be made, and it’s the perfect occasion to have a good after-action discussion to expose those errors and learn from each other. This is more like a bonding exercise and will teach you how to collaborate and communicate with your survival group. To succeed you need to know how to make the right fire time as this is the most decisive factor.

I will let you figure out this one for yourself and don’t cheat by building your fire on a platform.

Concluding
Learning to start and maintain a fire under stressful conditions should be your next step in developing your fire-making skills. As preppers and survivalists, we should never become too comfortable with our training and believe we know it all.

Scenarios like the ones listed in this article may one day become real for you and yours, and it’s better to know how to handle them. Always keep in mind the basics of starting a fire since they will influence your success and help you deal better with frustration and impatience.
 
Great thread Sentry. Fire building is a perishable skill if not practiced regularly.

I started a small project this past Sunday afternoon, not sure when I'll get back to it. But I gathered both some thumb sized popular and red cedar limbs, debarked the popular, and put all the wood in the basement to dry until I can get back to it. I intend to make a bow drill set and teach myself how to start a fire with it.
Matches and lighters I've used for years, but alternate methods can be just as effective if you know how to use them. Besides the bow drill, other stuff I want to learn is using a ferro rod, Magnisium block, & flint and steel. Also want to perfect my method of making char cloth. The know you know and are proficient at the better IMO.
 
Because of cold and wet weather I carry flares in the car. I don't need a maybe to get a fire started.

On a side note, you can cut the top off a soda can and fill it with gasoline. Set it upright with wood stacked around it and the steady flame you get will dry out your wood. Done it many times on the rusty side of Washington state.
 
Because of cold and wet weather I carry flares in the car. I don't need a maybe to get a fire started.

On a side note, you can cut the top off a soda can and fill it with gasoline. Set it upright with wood stacked around it and the steady flame you get will dry out your wood. Done it many times on the rusty side of Washington state.
Started several bbq grills and camp fires that way. Wet wood doesn't stand a chance.
 
I grew up backpacking in the PNW. I learned quite young how to start a fire in the rain forests of the Olympics and the west side of the Cascades.
Later I learned better living through chemistry and can start a fire using fire bricks for fuel. (that was an accident involving rocket fuels)
All kidding aside some simple chemicals can be used to make fire starters that will burn green, wet, and water soaked drift wood. We taught ourselves to use flint, aluminum, magnesium, steel wool and a few others that I won't post to start camp fires.Three types of fire you should know how to build:
1. a slow burning cooking fire
2. a fast burning warming fire
3. a slow burning tunnel fire that will warm the ground you sleep on. (without burning yourself up in the process) :)
 
Simple fire starters are made by cutting MDF (pressed sawdust) into 1x2x3/4" pucks and soaking them in hot wax for 20 minutes. Pull them out and let them cool. They are easy to light and will burn for more than 20 minutes. Cover them loosely with tinder and layer larger pieces of wood over the top. As the fire burns add larger pieces of wood gradually. If the wood is wet shave the outer layers with a knife or axe to expose the dry wood at the core. It is even better if you have pine or fir pitch wood as that adds considerable heat to the fire.
 
My BIL would fill a styrofoam cup with gas all the way to the top.
Then he sat it in the camp stove with the dry wood around it and light it on fire.
As the fire burned it would melt the cup and keep the flame going. It worked really well until the morning he knocked the cup over. There was a big whoosh, fire shooting out the stove and his beard, eyebrows, and hair singed. He didn't learn from that and still used the same method.
The look on his face still makes me laugh. I even told the story at his funeral 14 years ago.
 
I live in “Fatwood” country, down here we call it lighter pine. Although the heartwood of just about any pine will form fatwood those of us who live here know real fatwood comes from Longleaf Pine aka Pinus palustris.

These tress can reach ages over 500 years and it’s not just the heart, the entire tree becomes fatwood. It’s extremely common here. I’ve several big stumps by my chicken pen that I skidded up with a tractor when I was a teen… My family has been lighting fires with them for at least 50 years, barely made a dent.

Down in my bottoms I’ve a stump split down the center, the part that’s left weighs upwards of 2000lbs… compare to large sheppard in foreground… I can’t get it out with a tractor, I’ve tried. If I ever have a dozer down there I’ll skid it to the house.

Anyway, lighter pine will burn in almost any conditions, even rain. I keep lighter pine shavings (vacuum sealed in mylar) in my day pack, go bag etc. I’ve magnesium starters in all my bags also. Lighter pine w/magnesium is my go-to!

Fatwood medium.png
 
I planted 1000 White Pine seedlings when we bought our place years ago. Many of them died early on. But I still have over 300 of them alive. A few have died after a bad hail storm stripped them. I still have some stumps left standing and 3 or 4 dead trees left standing that are great fatwood. I cut a stamp a few years back to take on a camping trip. I lit it after splitting it in a swedish style fire. It caught up with a single match and burned for better than 10 hours for one stump, less than 18" tall and 10" diameter.
 
Confession I will click on the link tomorrow as I'm going to bed, but pine pitch works great. This is timely, I just told hubby this morning that I need to add more matches to our preps. We use them so they are not stagnant. I not only like a good supply, but would like abundance. I think they are something valuable to have on hand in case of emergency. By the way, don't get the green strike anywhere ones. I think they are called that because you can strike them anywhere and they won't light! I found a partial box. Thought I used them all - ugh!
 
Learned something new today… “Pitch Pine” is actually a species of pine - Pinus rigida. It’s a scrub pine that grows in barren dry foothills of the Appalachia chain (Georgia to Ontario), mostly on the seaward or eastern side. In the very early days of the railroads it was used for cross ties because of its really high resin content, very slow to rot. Of course, pitch pine also refers to heart pine or fatwood.

Anyway, as part of my on-going clean up around my chicken pen I took the tractor and pushed out 3 lighter pine stumps this morning. My family has been using these 3 to start fires at least 50 years, enough lighter pine here to last another 100.

A little goes a long way… a handful of lighter pine shavings in a go-bag will light dozens of fires.

Stump 03 (3)a.png
 
This is definitely one of the most important skills to have, and as we can see here there are a lot of ways to skin the cat. Let me also say that I am of the more modern philosophy. I am going to use the tools and materials readily, commercially available, and have lots of them. Using a bow drill or char cloth and flint are admirable skills. Why do I want or need to work that hard when I can flick a Bic or strike a match?

I have been putting together fire kits as long as I have been prepping. Every bag I have has a fire kit in it. I turned it into a game to see how small I could go, and still have at least three ways to start fire, and have the other essentials. I think the smallest ones I made are in 1" x 3" prescription drug bottles. Contents include a mini Bic lighter; three weather proof matches; six strike anywhere matches; a striker plate; a 9" square piece of aluminum foil; two birthday candles. Inside the lid one or two cotton balls keep everything securely in place, and can be used for tinder. Seal the lid with electrical tape, and yes it is reasonably water resistant, and it will float.

The optimum size would be the Altoids tin. You can really make a nice kit that size. One thing that I include that I think is oft forgotten; the lowly paper, book match. They are cheap. They are light. They don't take up a lot of room. You can waterproof them if you feel the need, but you can store them in a zip loc bag as well. You can store thousands of them for barter. They work just fine in all but the worst conditions; rain or high wind. Use them with a good tinder, and you are golden.
 
This is definitely one of the most important skills to have, and as we can see here there are a lot of ways to skin the cat. Let me also say that I am of the more modern philosophy. I am going to use the tools and materials readily, commercially available, and have lots of them. Using a bow drill or char cloth and flint are admirable skills. Why do I want or need to work that hard when I can flick a Bic or strike a match?

I have been putting together fire kits as long as I have been prepping. Every bag I have has a fire kit in it. I turned it into a game to see how small I could go, and still have at least three ways to start fire, and have the other essentials. I think the smallest ones I made are in 1" x 3" prescription drug bottles. Contents include a mini Bic lighter; three weather proof matches; six strike anywhere matches; a striker plate; a 9" square piece of aluminum foil; two birthday candles. Inside the lid one or two cotton balls keep everything securely in place, and can be used for tinder. Seal the lid with electrical tape, and yes it is reasonably water resistant, and it will float.

The optimum size would be the Altoids tin. You can really make a nice kit that size. One thing that I include that I think is oft forgotten; the lowly paper, book match. They are cheap. They are light. They don't take up a lot of room. You can waterproof them if you feel the need, but you can store them in a zip loc bag as well. You can store thousands of them for barter. They work just fine in all but the worst conditions; rain or high wind. Use them with a good tinder, and you are golden.

There is nothing wrong with Starting a Fire with a Match or Bic Lighter, but do you know how to make and Start a Fire with a Bow Drill, or Start a Fire with Flint and Steel? As a Prepper I'm certain you have heard the Adage Two is One, One is None. That applies to Skills as well, the more you know the better off you will be. Knowledge is Power.
 
There is nothing wrong with Starting a Fire with a Match or Bic Lighter, but do you know how to make and Start a Fire with a Bow Drill, or Start a Fire with Flint and Steel? As a Prepper I'm certain you have heard the Adage Two is One, One is None. That applies to Skills as well, the more you know the better off you will be. Knowledge is Power.

Absolutely. One is none. Two is one, and three is better. I have several ferro rods with which I practice. A Mora Fire knife, fixed blade with a ferro rod in the handle. Magnifying lenses. Magnesium fire starter. 9 volt battery with steel wool. If need be I can use my glasses. I even keep a small can of lighter fluid in my GHB. I carry a Zippo EDC. I feel pretty confident I have it covered.
 
Just a bit of humor Meercat.
C4 is a plastic explosive which you can light and it puts out extreme heat. We used a small piece it in Vietnam to heat C rations/.

C-4 or Composition C-4 is a common variety of the plastic explosive family known as Composition C. A similar British plastic explosive, based on RDX but with different plasticizer than Composition C-4, is known as PE-4 (Plastic Explosive No. 4). C-4 is composed of explosives, plastic binder, plasticizer to make it malleable, and usually a marker or odorizing taggant chemical.

C-4 has a texture similar to modelling clay and can be molded into any desired shape. C-4 is metastable and can be exploded only by the shock wave from a detonator or blasting cap.
 

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