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Frodo

Walk with God, You will never be lost
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I have a little craftsman welder that will not penetrate rr track steel
I have tried and tried to the point it looks like a chicken has pooped on the metal and still no penetration
I will ship to you and pay return postage and include a 20 spot in the box
A69B815F-E1A4-4AB6-9BA4-D74B090AAC0B.jpeg

Any takers?
It is a 6” long mini hammer
 
I have a little craftsman welder that will not penetrate rr track steel
I have tried and tried to the point it looks like a chicken has pooped on the metal and still no penetration
I will ship to you and pay return postage and include a 20 spot in the box
View attachment 112117
Any takers?
It is a 6” long mini hammer
Let me critique your welding bro, you made some major mistakes I can see at a glance:
You should have had at least 1/4 of an inch bevel and a 1/16th" gap between the hammer and the rod. You could have just laid the rod in there at about 60 degrees and laid a decent bead.

It looks like you used rods that were just left in the open, dry them in an oven at 120 degrees for half an hour next time.

Check your ground! A dirty or loose ground will wreck you every time!

If you're running 6011 rods, reverse your polarity and drop the current. 6011 sheet metal rods were made for thin metal, I'd use a 6010 or 7018 set on 120 to 135.

Hope that helps bro!
 
I have used one of these small wire feed welders, from HF, it had more splatter than weld but I did get an exhaust connection together, I wouldn't use that one again. It's amazing how good of a job an old Lincoln buzz box can do, I used to repair classroom metal chairs and desks with 1/8th" rod, made them stronger than when they came from the factory.
 
Let me critique your welding bro, you made some major mistakes I can see at a glance:
You should have had at least 1/4 of an inch bevel and a 1/16th" gap between the hammer and the rod. You could have just laid the rod in there at about 60 degrees and laid a decent bead.

It looks like you used rods that were just left in the open, dry them in an oven at 120 degrees for half an hour next time.

Check your ground! A dirty or loose ground will wreck you every time!

If you're running 6011 rods, reverse your polarity and drop the current. 6011 sheet metal rods were made for thin metal, I'd use a 6010 or 7018 set on 120 to 135.

Hope that helps bro!


Beveling is a great idea but would not do any good in this instance
When you bevel
You run a 2 pass weld
This little welder will not do that
It would fug up the root pass and you would never make it to the next pass

Flat or butt weld while holding a 1/16” gap. Is mucho bueino
1 pass.
 
I do not like cheap wire welders! We had several pole gates and hay rings that needed repairs. Some were badly rusted, needed to be junked in my op. But dad didn't want me to buy new ones. Was convinced they just needed some welding. So I went and bought him this mig gun.

Barely a welder but I did manage to get pieces to stick together. It'd have been cheaper to buy new gates and rings though.

I've tried to use it a couple times since... it is what it is, a disappointment. 30 years ago i welded rail cars together with quality dc machines, industrial. Maybe it's my perspective... I expect steel to melt when I weld, not splatter like a drunk sailor blowing chunks.

It was on sale, got everything I needed for about $400 in '08. Well, everything except a different welder. :rolleyes:

46.jpg
 
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ever do the figure "8"? Awesome holding power!
No, I am not good enough, I do have a buddy that can run a pass that looks like a roll of dimes on a 45 degree angle
After welding it . He would use his file to cut the edge on the side That Would enhance the look
Work of art
 
Never trust a MIG when you got the stick. MIG is for tailpipes and water lines, things that don't need deep penetration.

For the record, I'd have just wire-brushed those pipes and filled them with Bondo. it's how you fix lawn furniture. LOL
 
Ahh quit hating on mig machines they work well once you learn how. I built a 9 second ride and a dump truck with a Hobart 140. Then I got a Lincoln 175HD and it's burned through 1/2 mild steel more than once. Extension cords are the cause of most home welding issues.
 
Any one of you guys that are fitters can relate to this
Fitters and welders work closely together. So close that they start planking on each other
They can also get a little mad at each other
When you install pipe
The fitter will hold the fitting to be welded in position. He (fitter) holds the fitting level,square,plumb while the welder Tacks the fitting in 4 spots.
This is where the tension rises
The fitter is holding a big steel fitting WITH. Spacer gages. And 2 levels
He is holding the fitting in position
When ready he says. “Tack it” and closes his eyes
Sometimes the welder jumps the gun and tacks the pipe. When this is done he “flashes”! The fitter. That is a HUGE no no
So, what does the fitter do to remind the welder that he does not do anything till he is told to?m lol
Drop the fitting on the welders foot
Works every time v
If he needs to be reminded?
Coil his lead around the pipe 4 times and step back
 
I've had a Hobart140 for about twelve years and used it a lot. It's a great welder in those many instances that 220 ain't available. Here's a few tips about flux core:

1) don't buy the bargain brand wire. My dad made this mistake and no matter how you adjusted the tension, the wire feed would skip. Close examination of the wire revealed random bumps along the external of the wire. It's gotta be smooth and consistent since you need it to feed consistent.

Buy the .030 wire. And make sure the notches in the spool are not flipped to accommodate the 35 wire. 35 is for 180 amps and higher.

2) remove the gas flare tip. You don't need it for flux core and it blocks your view of the goings on.

3) match your feed to the speed. Most cases are 3 and 30. There about? 4/40 for the thickest (almost 1/4 inch) and 2/20 for the thin stuff. Rarely ever weld anything thin enough for the one setting.

4) try and not use extension cord. If you must, get the biggest but shortest cord you can find.

5) practice on scraps and find the right shade number until you can see the bubble and gain some proficiency

6) try to keep your cable straight as possible so the wire feed doesn't have to bend or change direction
 
Anyone ever notice that welding leads always snag on the nearest immovable object?
You could be dragging them across an empty parking lot and !!WUP!! look back and be trying to drag a Buick!
 
This thread got me thinking about another mig welder I disliked. I once ran a hydraulic seam welder for 2months. I welded in the panels that make up the sides of a box car. I welded the edges of two panels to a frame member then moved the machine to the next seam. It was a production line at pullman std, we built train cars. I worked in the box car ‘side’ shop, we just built the sides.

The welder had wheels and moved on rails. There were two of them at that production line position. One for each side of the center door. They’d pull the welded side 'frame' underneath the 2 seam welders. It lay flat and the panels were already tack welded into place.

I sat in a seat and ‘drove’ the seam welder with hydraulic controls like a back hoe. I welded 5 seams 10ft long, took about 30min. Flux poured from a pipe just in front of the weld. A vacuum pipe sucked up loose flux just behind weld head as it moved along. Flux came in 50lb bags, had to periodically fill a big hopper. It took 2 guys to put on a new spool of wire, weighed about 80lbs.

I hated the job, bored out of my mind. It was a union shop, periodically jobs came open for bids based on seniority. I was a happy camper when I lost that job and got moved to the flat car line (pig line). There I welded the 5th wheel hitch assembly into place. At least I was burning rods instead of wire.

I couldn’t find a pic of these big seam welders, below is something similar, a stationary seam welder (2nd pic). About the same size, just imagine it on wheels and you could drive it... (at least the padded seat was comfortable... 😅). I marked the vertical frame members in the 1st pic. The seam welds were on the back or inside the finished box car.

Funny, we built both 'Trailer Train' and 'Rail Box' cars. We also built hoppers, gondolas and tankers. I think 2500 guys worked there, maybe 1500 were welders. Takes lots of welding to build a train car.

(Sorry @Frodo , back to the regular scheduled programming...)

01 z trains (4)a.jpg
02 seam 001.jpg
03 Seam w 02.jpg
04 z trains (3).jpg
 
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Ahh quit hating on mig machines they work well once you learn how. I built a 9 second ride and a dump truck with a Hobart 140. Then I got a Lincoln 175HD and it's burned through 1/2 mild steel more than once. Extension cords are the cause of most home welding issues.
MIG machines (technically MAG machines, but everyone calls them MIG) are more than capable of deep penetrations and strong welds. The guys who spout crap about them have little to no gun time with them, use some crappy consumer level flux core welder, and don't understand that preparation for the weld is 1000% more important than actually pulling the trigger on the stinger.

Most of those guys live by the rule that a grinder and paint makes you the welder you ain't.
 
use some crappy consumer level flux core welder, and don't understand that preparation

Exactly! That's my gripe, I bought a cheap entry level machine and got exactly what I paid for! :(

I've used some great wire guns but those are pricey. First building chemical tanks for monsanto then train cars.

But, I had no use for a profession grade machine here on the farm.. Spend $$$ for something I might use once a year?

I eventually bought a welding tip for my cutting torch. I'd rather gas weld small stuff than use my little wire gun. Actually, I always liked gas welding, first thing I learned in trade school. It's slow but it works, very precise control on thin metals.
 
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Some of the first welding I ever did was with a set of jumper cables two 12 volt batteries and a coat hanger it's still holding together today 35 odd years later!

now if only I could figure out how to weld some aluminum frame on my broken golf cart.
 
Here, I used to sell these things.


https://www.alumiweld.com/
They work quite well! I used to weld over a shell casing and give the customer an ice pick and a hammer, I never had one fail. they're the bomb on nonferrous stuff! The galvanized steel part is a stretch unless they have improved.
 
Here, I used to sell these things.


https://www.alumiweld.com/
They work quite well! I used to weld over a shell casing and give the customer an ice pick and a hammer, I never had one fail. they're the bomb on nonferrous stuff! The galvanized steel part is a stretch unless they have improved.

Problem is the aluminum dissipates heat to fast to get hot enough to melt the rod. Both pieces are 1/4 in thick one is 3 in. I beam about 6 ft long the other is about 4ft long S channel The welds broke where they cross..
 
The 1/4" they can handle if you use an Oxyacetylene torch and a stainless brush to clean it, for anything thicker you'll need to stick weld.
 
The 1/4" they can handle if you use an Oxyacetylene torch and a stainless brush to clean it, for anything thicker you'll need to stick weld.
I tried that with a rose bud tip and no luck. I'm wondering if giving the ALU a thick coat of clay outside the weld area trying to hold the heat in would have any effect?

Or maybe trying my plasma cutter to melt the ALU together. IDK
 
I was in the laundry room last night. I have a couple large totes filled with books by the freezer. With welding on my mind… I checked, found my books from trade school. Even have the ‘Welding Encyclopedia’, 17th edition from 1974… 🤣!

I read half a page and it gave me a headache… filled with words I barely remember. The us steel industry crashed about 1980. With it went jobs in heavy industry, I couldn’t buy a welding job in Birmingham. Paper reported that 70K union steel workers were laid off just in north alabama. I ended up homeless, slept in my car all summer. Life took a turn and I left welding behind, leaned new skills. (cue the music… memories…🎼 )

Funny, last year @Supervisor42 and I discovered we attended the same trade school at the same time. We didn’t know each other back then.

Anyway, the oxy-acetylene handbook is a gold mine of information… everything you’d need to know about gas welding.

20230719_book welding.jpg
 
I remember once in the shop, they had to drill some 3/8ths" holes every inch, tack-fill the holes, and then go back and put a weave weld over the top of them.
 

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