Owners of Toyota 4runner/rav4

[Aerindel]

Yep. Old subarus are almost a hobby of mine. I have more of them than I should. People will just about give them away with a blown head gasket and its just a weekend job if you know what your doing.

The are pretty much the perfect vehicle for getting 2-4 people from place to place with a costco load of groceries. Not rock crawlers, not for towing, and while they aren't up to toyota standards for reliability, won't fall apart quickly. You go through struts, brakes, and cv axles over time but that is true of everything. Headgaskets are inherently vulnerable because of the engine design but if you do it once at 150k you won't have to do it again for the life of the engine.

And there is a rapidly growing offroad community for them building lift kits, rock slider, winch mounts etc if you want to upgrade.

 

[BadgerLandHunter]

Yep. Old subarus are almost a hobby of mine. I have more of them than I should. People will just about give them away with a blown head gasket and its just a weekend job if you know what your doing.

The are pretty much the perfect vehicle for getting 2-4 people from place to place with a costco load of groceries. Not rock crawlers, not for towing, and while they aren't up to toyota standards for reliability, won't fall apart quickly. You go through struts, brakes, and cv axles over time but that is true of everything. Headgaskets are inherently vulnerable because of the engine design but if you do it once at 150k you won't have to do it again for the life of the engine.

And there is a rapidly growing offroad community for them building lift kits, rock slider, winch mounts etc if you want to upgrade.

As of now I have an old Pontiac 2 wheel drive that likes to side on the snow then burrow in the ditch.

I took it up north and the warden laughed and said there is a snow storm coming in 2 days you may want to shorten your trip. Which I did.

I like the space for my hammock and cooking supplies but don't have a boat or trailer to pull so no need for that. I would like a winch someday.

If I bought my bro a pack of beer and handed him a few bucks he might help me replace a head gasket and show me how.

I just want a vehicle worth the time, money, and effort of repairing and can handle snowy frontage roads.

I have quickly learned to slow down with the little Pontiac but it's days are numbered and NOT worth sticking more money into to fix what's wrong. Also quite low to the ground IMO. Good on gas though lol

 

[Aerindel]

Put some snow tires on it and a subaru is just about unstoppable. Over here in western MT half the vehicles that aren't trucks, are subarus.

You have to pull the engine* to replace the headgaskets on a subaru, which is time consuming, but not hard, which is why mechanics charge $2-3K for it even though the parts are about $300. But its not really a technically difficult job and the engine weighs less than 300lbs. All the complicated stuff like the wiring, sensors, fuel lines, etc in on the intake manifold, which you take off in one piece anyway and don't mess with. Then its just a matter of cleaning the head surfaces really well, slapping a new gasket in , and bolting it back together.

I'm not going to remotely say its fun, but if your trying to save money its an easy way get a good car for several thousand less than it would normally cost you, and while you are at it, you can easily fix any oil leaks, etc while the engine is out so when you put it back together you have an engine that is in really good shape. Modern engines rarely wear out rings, bearings etc, but its the seals and gaskets that go out as any rubber part degrades over time from heat and oxygen so taking the time to replace them while the engine is out while its really easy to fix is a good idea on a vehicle you plan to keep for a while.

*technically, I have read of a few crazy people who have replaced subaru heads without pulling the engine but frankly I think they are nuts as 90% of the work for the whole job still has to be done even if you leave the engine in place, and you would be making the job at least four times harder by leaving it in the car.

 

[Cnsper]

I still can't seem to pay more than about 10k max for a vehicle. Like my 3/4 ton 4x4 dodge. I would rather use the money for something else. My first and only new vehicle I ever bought was in 1987.

My previous truck was a 1979 chevy 3/4 ton 4x4 and the only reason I now have the dodge is because with the amount of towing i now do i wanted a diesel.

I buy cheap, maintain them and run them until they drop.

 

[BadgerLandHunter]

Put some snow tires on it and a subaru is just about unstoppable. Over here in western MT half the vehicles that aren't trucks, are subarus.

You have to pull the engine* to replace the headgaskets on a subaru, which is time consuming, but not hard, which is why mechanics charge $2-3K for it even though the parts are about $300. But its not really a technically difficult job and the engine weighs less than 300lbs. All the complicated stuff like the wiring, sensors, fuel lines, etc in on the intake manifold, which you take off in one piece anyway and don't mess with. Then its just a matter of cleaning the head surfaces really well, slapping a new gasket in , and bolting it back together.

I'm not going to remotely say its fun, but if your trying to save money its an easy way get a good car for several thousand less than it would normally cost you, and while you are at it, you can easily fix any oil leaks, etc while the engine is out so when you put it back together you have an engine that is in really good shape. Modern engines rarely wear out rings, bearings etc, but its the seals and gaskets that go out as any rubber part degrades over time from heat and oxygen so taking the time to replace them while the engine is out while its really easy to fix is a good idea on a vehicle you plan to keep for a while.

*technically, I have read of a few crazy people who have replaced subaru heads without pulling the engine but frankly I think they are nuts as 90% of the work for the whole job still has to be done even if you leave the engine in place, and you would be making the job at least four times harder by leaving it in the car.

I was reading more on them and the newer ones are suppose to be less issues but have lots of recalls. I read the 4 cylinder and standard is the way to go. Turbos and auto trannies seem to have more issues. It's hard to find a standard locally with less than 125k miles and less than $11k.

My dad actually has a 1 ton engine lift I could use worse case scenario and that's good it's like that. My truck was a pain but it was left in the vehicle.

I found a few years 2010 2011 and 2013 auto 4 cylinder non turbo for about $10k with ~110k miles on them. None from the dealer shops were under $9k for that miles though.
This was purely an internet search from a search engine from dealerships "in my area". I'm hesitant to use craigslist but for one needing a new head gasket I might just take a look.

 

[BadgerLandHunter]

I still can't seem to pay more than about 10k max for a vehicle. Like my 3/4 ton 4x4 dodge. I would rather use the money for something else. My first and only new vehicle I ever bought was in 1987.

My previous truck was a 1979 chevy 3/4 ton 4x4 and the only reason I now have the dodge is because with the amount of towing i now do i wanted a diesel.

I buy cheap, maintain them and run them until they drop.

I usually buy vehicles used with under 150k miles and under 3 grand but those were older American brand cars that started leaking everything in a few years and weren't worth repairing. I didn't trust most of them to go more than 100 miles with out of town.

Now I'm older and have a decent job so I'm willing to spend more although I'm still in an apartment so if im going to spend over 25 thousand dollars it's going to be toward a house in the country not a brand new car.

I totally agree with buying a reputable used vehicle and driving till it dies if you can trust it for road trips.

If I had the time and money and a friend to drive with me I'd go drive down south away from the salt belt and buy a used vehicle where the body was near mint......that would be the best.

 

[Bacpacker]

I usually buy vehicles used with under 150k miles and under 3 grand but those were older American brand cars that started leaking everything in a few years and weren't worth repairing. I didn't trust most of them to go more than 100 miles with out of town.

Now I'm older and have a decent job so I'm willing to spend more although I'm still in an apartment so if im going to spend over 25 thousand dollars it's going to be toward a house in the country not a brand new car.

I totally agree with buying a reputable used vehicle and driving till it dies if you can trust it for road trips.

If I had the time and money and a friend to drive with me I'd go drive down south away from the salt belt and buy a used vehicle where the body was near mint......that would be the best.

Badger, check with comapnies like CarMax,Carvana, & others. You can search the country for what you are interested in and have them delivered to a dealer near you. My last truck came from South Alabama. My current one from eastern North Carolina. Works really well if you have specific things that are a must have. Mine was a Toyota Tundra, but had to have a Long (8') bed

 

[BadgerLandHunter]

Badger, check with comapnies like CarMax,Carvana, & others. You can search the country for what you are interested in and have them delivered to a dealer near you. My last truck came from South Alabama. My current one from eastern North Carolina. Works really well if you have specific things that are a must have. Mine was a Toyota Tundra, but had to have a Long (8') bed

Thanks I noticed that. They had an option on one in Ohio for like $400 but you pay shipping on the site even if you come to find it's a total piece of junk. I should ask my bro who is big into Subaru about that. He did that for 2 cars he bought sight unseen. If the price is right and a sweet deal it would be worth it for one without a rusty "patina." Lol

 

[Aerindel]

Turbos are trouble no matter what the brand. I avoid them. Which is going to become harder and harder as time goes on and the 'stick a big turbo on a tiny engine to make emissions standards' infects everything.

For finding used cars I actually have a lot better luck on Facebook marketplace than craigslist. It's the only reason I maintain a (fake) facebook account.

My dad actually has a 1 ton engine lift I could use worse case scenario and that's good it's like that. My truck was a pain but it was left in the vehicle.

Doing an HG out of the vehicle is a whole different experience. The time needed to disconnect everything from the engine is annoying, but the actual engine work is really straightforward once its out. Just make sure you follow instructions when re-torquing the heads.

I have an overhead rail hoist that sticks out of my shop so I pull the engine outside and bring it in to work on it:

 

[Bacpacker]

Thanks I noticed that. They had an option on one in Ohio for like $400 but you pay shipping on the site even if you come to find it's a total piece of junk. I should ask my bro who is big into Subaru about that. He did that for 2 cars he bought sight unseen. If the price is right and a sweet deal it would be worth it for one without a rusty "patina." Lol

You can get the carfax report, which is usually a decent account on the car before you ask it to be shipped.

 

[BadgerLandHunter]

You can get the carfax report, which is usually a decent account on the car before you ask it to be shipped.

Yeah after typing that I just talked to my brother who said that and said even a private seller you can ask if they are willing to take it to a local shop. If so you call there shop and find a time that works for both and pay the shop to give you a detailed inspection before you even pay to get it shipped to you. I wasn't even thinking about that.
Oh yeah the goofy car fax commercials how could I forget lolol.

 

[BadgerLandHunter]

Turbos are trouble no matter what the brand. I avoid them. Which is going to become harder and harder as time goes on and the 'stick a big turbo on a tiny engine to make emissions standards' infects everything.

For finding used cars I actually have a lot better luck on Facebook marketplace than craigslist. It's the only reason I maintain a (fake) facebook account.




Doing an HG out of the vehicle is a whole different experience. The time needed to disconnect everything from the engine is annoying, but the actual engine work is really straightforward once its out. Just make sure you follow instructions when re-torquing the heads.

I have an overhead rail hoist that sticks out of my shop so I pull the engine outside and bring it in to work on it:

Oh that's awesome set up you have! Yeah guess it's even possible for 2 men to man handle it out since it isn't super heavy. (I'd still use the engine hoist lol)

After talking to family I'm now more confident on them and they should be easy to work on compared to the cramped engine bays on some vehicles. My bro found a late 90s with close to 100k miles on 4-5 years ago and has like a total of 4-5k in it and it runs great with most of the stuff replaced on the engine and fuel pump/lines.
I probably will need to look for a newer one to find mid 100k miles but then some stuff may be repaired/replaced already. The 2010+ years are still holding the value and would need the head gasket or water pump replaced soon anyways so maybe I'll look for a bit older one with similar miles but where the price is cheaper.

As y'all can tell I'm thinking as I go. Nothing is set in stone yet. Definitely a standard and a 4 cylinder and probably from the south but the rest I'm looking into. Heated seats and some modern accessories would be nice but not needed.

 

[Aerindel]

Something to consider as well, because of really strict vehicle inspection laws and mechanics in japan, japanese vehicles are essentially 'totaled' at 30-40K. There are several US companies that run an operation where they strip engines and transmissions out these vehicles and import them into the US, they usually run about $1000 and are essentially just barely broken in engines. They are referred to as 'JDM' engines. If you find a car you like, with a blown up engine, its another route to go. These dealers will usually take your VIN and find a drop in, almost new, engine for you, for about 1/4 the price of a factory new engine.

Just another option to think about. Its how a lot of people are keeping toyotas and subarus etc running for practically forever without too much cost.

Its why I don't mind putting work and money into my Tundra even though its got 320K on it, the engine runs like a top but if it blows up I know I can just get another one with a fraction of the miles for $1000 or so instead of having to shell out for a rebuild. Tundras where rare in Japan but my truck uses the same engine used by several models of Lexus so there not too hard to find on the JDM import market.

 

[Cnsper]

You can also wait and be patient so you can jump on deals when you find them.

Last year a guy comes into work all pissed off at his car. Goes on and on about selling it. I asked how much and he said $1500 and I said sold.

It was a 2013 Hyundai Elantra with just over 100k. Sold it 2 weeks ago for 2k after driving it for a year. I did nothing but change the oil.

I bought a 2003 1500 silverado for $500 because it would not shift right and had electrical issues. I replaced the cracked battery and sold it for 3k. Drove that one for a year too

Went with a buddy to get a dodge diesel. Would not start and transmission leaked. Tightened the bolts on the transmission pan, new fuel filter, new batteries and drove away in a 12k truck for 4k the guy was mad but hey we were willing to crawl under the truck.

 

[200years2late]

I

You can also wait and be patient so you can jump on deals when you find them.

Last year a guy comes into work all pissed off at his car. Goes on and on about selling it. I asked how much and he said $1500 and I said sold.

It was a 2013 Hyundai Elantra with just over 100k. Sold it 2 weeks ago for 2k after driving it for a year. I did nothing but change the oil.

I bought a 2003 1500 silverado for $500 because it would not shift right and had electrical issues. I replaced the cracked battery and sold it for 3k. Drove that one for a year too

Went with a buddy to get a dodge diesel. Would not start and transmission leaked. Tightened the bolts on the transmission pan, new fuel filter, new batteries and drove away in a 12k truck for 4k the guy was mad but hey we were willing to crawl under the truck.

I've turned over a bunch of old Subarus by doing the same kind of thing. Anything a person can do to save on transportation costs is worth while. It's a huge expense over a lifetime.

 

[200years2late]

Something to consider as well, because of really strict vehicle inspection laws and mechanics in japan, japanese vehicles are essentially 'totaled' at 30-40K. There are several US companies that run an operation where they strip engines and transmissions out these vehicles and import them into the US, they usually run about $1000 and are essentially just barely broken in engines. They are referred to as 'JDM' engines. If you find a car you like, with a blown up engine, its another route to go. These dealers will usually take your VIN and find a drop in, almost new, engine for you, for about 1/4 the price of a factory new engine.

Just another option to think about. Its how a lot of people are keeping toyotas and subarus etc running for practically forever without too much cost.

Its why I don't mind putting work and money into my Tundra even though its got 320K on it, the engine runs like a top but if it blows up I know I can just get another one with a fraction of the miles for $1000 or so instead of having to shell out for a rebuild. Tundras where rare in Japan but my truck uses the same engine used by several models of Lexus so there not too hard to find on the JDM import market.

As of now I have an old Pontiac 2 wheel drive that likes to side on the snow then burrow in the ditch.

I took it up north and the warden laughed and said there is a snow storm coming in 2 days you may want to shorten your trip. Which I did.

I like the space for my hammock and cooking supplies but don't have a boat or trailer to pull so no need for that. I would like a winch someday.

If I bought my bro a pack of beer and handed him a few bucks he might help me replace a head gasket and show me how.

I just want a vehicle worth the time, money, and effort of repairing and can handle snowy frontage roads.

I have quickly learned to slow down with the little Pontiac but it's days are numbered and NOT worth sticking more money into to fix what's wrong. Also quite low to the ground IMO. Good on gas though lol

I bought this 88 and another wrecked one for $300 and combined the two. Some other guy's project that wasn't going to happen. I've been driving it for 8 years. Has 315,000 miles on it and barely using oil. And I still have the low mileage motor from the wrecked one. Just wish I could sleep in it.

 

[Aerindel]

Nice. Yeah, I did the same thing, I have a wrecked 2002 parts car I got for $200 with an 50K engine and tranny sitting in it if I ever need them for my 2000 subaru.

 

[BadgerLandHunter]

Something to consider as well, because of really strict vehicle inspection laws and mechanics in japan, japanese vehicles are essentially 'totaled' at 30-40K. There are several US companies that run an operation where they strip engines and transmissions out these vehicles and import them into the US, they usually run about $1000 and are essentially just barely broken in engines. They are referred to as 'JDM' engines. If you find a car you like, with a blown up engine, its another route to go. These dealers will usually take your VIN and find a drop in, almost new, engine for you, for about 1/4 the price of a factory new engine.

Just another option to think about. Its how a lot of people are keeping toyotas and subarus etc running for practically forever without too much cost.

Its why I don't mind putting work and money into my Tundra even though its got 320K on it, the engine runs like a top but if it blows up I know I can just get another one with a fraction of the miles for $1000 or so instead of having to shell out for a rebuild. Tundras where rare in Japan but my truck uses the same engine used by several models of Lexus so there not too hard to find on the JDM import market.

Oh that's cool. I heard you could import them but since I couldn't get them inspected first I was worried about that and didn't know the policy over there.

I think I'll keep looking the newer gen they want around 8k-10k for and they are all in the red zone prime for a head gasket to go if not already leaking. That is fir the 2009-2012 vehicles. For me that's way to much to feel obligated to rip out the engine and do all that to. Maybe the older gen like something around 100k but like no more than $5k from the south....if its it's possible. I'm not a gear head who enjoys working on vehicles. I like to save money and have a running vehicle but won't go out of my way for adding unnecessary improvements or cold air intakes or even upgrading speakers. (if the original break) So the less crap I need to do the better.

My brother on the other hand is real good with that and willing to fix up any decent vehicle and add lots of nice improvements on his vehicle. He totally rebuilt a late 90s/early 2000 roller skate car. He only has like 7 grand in it and little can go wrong since he replaced most of it.

No matter what I buy will need work I know I just need to keep looking.

 

[BadgerLandHunter]

You can also wait and be patient so you can jump on deals when you find them.

Last year a guy comes into work all pissed off at his car. Goes on and on about selling it. I asked how much and he said $1500 and I said sold.

It was a 2013 Hyundai Elantra with just over 100k. Sold it 2 weeks ago for 2k after driving it for a year. I did nothing but change the oil.

I bought a 2003 1500 silverado for $500 because it would not shift right and had electrical issues. I replaced the cracked battery and sold it for 3k. Drove that one for a year too

Went with a buddy to get a dodge diesel. Would not start and transmission leaked. Tightened the bolts on the transmission pan, new fuel filter, new batteries and drove away in a 12k truck for 4k the guy was mad but hey we were willing to crawl under the truck.

Yeah exactly. And that's sort of how I use to roll. I would an older model vehicle and drive it for 2-5 years fix small crap top off the oil once a month when low (leaking/burning) and change the oil on time but as soon as major things happened like head gasket needed to be replaced or unibody was rusted to crap I would salvage it. I never felt real confident that I could go on trips 150miles up north and return.
I use to carry $300 cash on me so if my crap vehicle died it wouldn't be worth towing back to fix since rust was usually there and other minor things were bad. I planned on telling a local tow truck to take it to the nearest scrap yard (I'd get $75-100 for it) then call a taxi to get home. (hence the $300)
My vehicles were never shaking or pinging before hand I'm not that crazy but I never felt like I could trust them.

Long story long I want something worth repairing or that doesn't need much that I can feel confident on road trips that I only take a handful of times a year.

 

[BadgerLandHunter]

I



I've turned over a bunch of old Subarus by doing the same kind of thing. Anything a person can do to save on transportation costs is worth while. It's a huge expense over a lifetime.

Exactly the most I've spent on a used vehicle was under $2k but the longest I've had one was only 4 or 5 years and that was a 90s Buick that was leaking everything and in my eyes wasn't worth fixing. I probably had $1500 in different parts on it when I junked it. I added new tires a year before i gave it up but they were the same size as the Pontiac I later bought so my Pontiac had Buick rims that bolted perfectly lolol.
If I didn't live in WI I think I would repair more on vehicles. There is no way I plan on moving since I love the seasons but rust always plays a huge factor in my junk it or repair it decisions.

 

[BadgerLandHunter]

I bought this 88 and another wrecked one for $300 and combined the two. Some other guy's project that wasn't going to happen. I've been driving it for 8 years. Has 315,000 miles on it and barely using oil. And I still have the low mileage motor from the wrecked one. Just wish I could sleep in it.

Hahaha that's awesome! I do like the space on the Subaru's but usually I sleep outside although being able to sleep inside would be nice for stopping in a city on a road trip.

That looks like beautiful weather too how much salt does your area use on roads?

 

[Cnsper]

I guess I look at things differently when it comes to vehicles. You are never going to get your money back out of them. New cars breakdown nearly as often as older ones. Just look at the cars on the side of the road. I base my judgement as repair cost vs replacement cost.

A buddy of mine has an old 77 chevy plow truck. Bed is falling apart and you could put your foot through the floorboard. We are putting another cab on it and building a flatbed. This truck has a low mileage motor and trans. Cheaper to fix than replace.

My current truck has 390k and I would drive it across country.

 

[PopPopT]

That 4Runner is a truck. And it might get you 20mpg on a good day. But it's built like a truck and can do some basic haulin' and pull a large-enough-to-be-useful utility trailer. The Rav4, Honda CRV, Subaru Forester, that size, are not trucks. They're cars with a roomy cab. But they'll also get you 35mpg without tryin' all that hard. Kinda comparing apples to oranges.

I bought a Subaru Forester back in '18 just because we needed something reliable. And new wasn't much more than used at the time so we figured, why not. Basic model. Haven't had any issues with it other than a cracked windshield. Have never had any issue with traction, that part of it seems rock solid. But I wouldn't think of towing anything, it's really not made for it. It's lightweight, handles corners very well, sips the fuel, but honestly, rides like a buck board. I had thought we might do more traveling but one trip out west (4,000 miles of mostly interstate) and dang, the butt was sore. It's an awesome little putz-around. Great headroom. (I looked at several Outbacks and hit the top of my head on the doorframe each and every time I got in and out.) Forester is narrower but taller and works for me. Not as pretty but I'm old, don't care that it looks like a box on wheels.

Daughter-in-law loves the 4Runner but ended up buying a new SantaFe Sport. Now has well over 100k miles on it and it still looks and runs like new... but she's also in the Phoenix, AZ area and salted roads isn't really much of a thing there.

Everything is a trade-off. It was like that when I bought my utility trailer... open, closed, single axle, dual axle, no matter what you buy, you'll wish you had the other one at some point.

Shipping is a thing these days so you might even shop in areas like AZ or parts of TX where rust isn't such a big deal. Just a thought. I bought a 2001 F350 from TX a decade ago and it still has almost no rust.

Good luck!

 

[Terri9630]

I have an 02 dodge 2500 I bought in 04 and put $7,000 in it this year. Harold has been paid off for 15 years and has only left me stranded twice. Once when the wheel bearings went out and once when the starter got stuck "on" and melted my battery terminal/cable. The guys at work kept telling me to trade him in but why pay $50,000 to replace him when he only needed a bit of work?

 

[PopPopT]

The guys at work kept telling me to trade him in but why pay $50,000 to replace him when he only needed a bit of work?

Sometimes the best car deal is the fixing the one you already own.

We have an old Toyota Sienna that wouldn't bring much in trade. Has close to 250k miles but has never, ever left us sit anywhere. Ever. AWD, and does great on slick roads. It does need some stuff but time is gonna be harder on it than mileage at this point. Tires will dry rot before they'll be worn out. It just doesn't go that much anymore. I think I took it a few miles "around the block" about a month ago, just to warm it up and run it a bit. In the summer, it tends to get used like a "farm truck", maybe a bit like I would use a Gator if I had one.

It could use a battery and a few other little things. Otherwise, I'd trust it to go anywhere.

 

[BadgerLandHunter]

I guess I look at things differently when it comes to vehicles. You are never going to get your money back out of them. New cars breakdown nearly as often as older ones. Just look at the cars on the side of the road. I base my judgement as repair cost vs replacement cost.

A buddy of mine has an old 77 chevy plow truck. Bed is falling apart and you could put your foot through the floorboard. We are putting another cab on it and building a flatbed. This truck has a low mileage motor and trans. Cheaper to fix than replace.

My current truck has 390k and I would drive it across country.

That's true. I'm just putting off major repairs (hopefully) by doing this. I also don't plan on selling this vehicle I plan on driving it into the dirt ideally. Heck I'm going to eventually drill a 3/8" hole in the roof and mount a ham radio antenna. Plus maybe transfer my 102" CB Whip on the bumper eventually.....maybe.

I probably could get an older beater for a few grand and make repairs and replace the engine (myself) for less than this eventual newer vehicle but this has probably better crash ratings and the only time in my life where I have the financial freedom to do it. Well now or retirement maybe if I live that long.

 

[BadgerLandHunter]

That 4Runner is a truck. And it might get you 20mpg on a good day. But it's built like a truck and can do some basic haulin' and pull a large-enough-to-be-useful utility trailer. The Rav4, Honda CRV, Subaru Forester, that size, are not trucks. They're cars with a roomy cab. But they'll also get you 35mpg without tryin' all that hard. Kinda comparing apples to oranges.

I bought a Subaru Forester back in '18 just because we needed something reliable. And new wasn't much more than used at the time so we figured, why not. Basic model. Haven't had any issues with it other than a cracked windshield. Have never had any issue with traction, that part of it seems rock solid. But I wouldn't think of towing anything, it's really not made for it. It's lightweight, handles corners very well, sips the fuel, but honestly, rides like a buck board. I had thought we might do more traveling but one trip out west (4,000 miles of mostly interstate) and dang, the butt was sore. It's an awesome little putz-around. Great headroom. (I looked at several Outbacks and hit the top of my head on the doorframe each and every time I got in and out.) Forester is narrower but taller and works for me. Not as pretty but I'm old, don't care that it looks like a box on wheels.

Daughter-in-law loves the 4Runner but ended up buying a new SantaFe Sport. Now has well over 100k miles on it and it still looks and runs like new... but she's also in the Phoenix, AZ area and salted roads isn't really much of a thing there.

Everything is a trade-off. It was like that when I bought my utility trailer... open, closed, single axle, dual axle, no matter what you buy, you'll wish you had the other one at some point.

Shipping is a thing these days so you might even shop in areas like AZ or parts of TX where rust isn't such a big deal. Just a thought. I bought a 2001 F350 from TX a decade ago and it still has almost no rust.

Good luck!

Thanks and true. I'm leaning now to a rav4. The scrawny little brother of the 4runner that almost died at birth.
I really thought about it and yeah a 4runner is a truck with an SUV cab and is known to be good off road. I never plan on driving off road. All my camping trips have been near a road where I park. And as of now a rav4 would be fine. I also don't beat my vehicles so speed isn't an issue. I don't care too much about the appearance but the new rav4's are UGLY! Looks like the grabbed the front bumper and pulled stretching the front end out. I'm not shopping 2019+ new but still think that the older 2010 model looked WAY better.

True you always want what you can't have. If y'all saw my vehicles almost anything newer would look better than them lol. Talked to a worker who has the 2010 model and it's run like a top. Over 200k miles and just now his mechanic said it's starting to burn oil. He hasn't done any major repairs yet to it either.

 

[BadgerLandHunter]

I have an 02 dodge 2500 I bought in 04 and put $7,000 in it this year. Harold has been paid off for 15 years and has only left me stranded twice. Once when the wheel bearings went out and once when the starter got stuck "on" and melted my battery terminal/cable. The guys at work kept telling me to trade him in but why pay $50,000 to replace him when he only needed a bit of work?

Dang right! My "trusty rusty" has 214k miles on it (new engine @60k miles) and was very nice and easy to work on being a 90s it doesn't have much at all for electronics. However it's just two wheel drive and the frame has a hole in it so it's days are numbered. By now it has many new components but the frame is the deal breaker and it is bad/fun in the snow.

Maybe I'll sell it for $350 as is and they will weld a piece of metal over the hole but that's more than I want to do. It served me well.

I also don't really need a truck now. And the 14/17mpg is horrible so it sits most of the time.

 

[BadgerLandHunter]

Sometimes the best car deal is the fixing the one you already own.

We have an old Toyota Sienna that wouldn't bring much in trade. Has close to 250k miles but has never, ever left us sit anywhere. Ever. AWD, and does great on slick roads. It does need some stuff but time is gonna be harder on it than mileage at this point. Tires will dry rot before they'll be worn out. It just doesn't go that much anymore. I think I took it a few miles "around the block" about a month ago, just to warm it up and run it a bit. In the summer, it tends to get used like a "farm truck", maybe a bit like I would use a Gator if I had one.

It could use a battery and a few other little things. Otherwise, I'd trust it to go anywhere.

That's awesome. My old friend had a Honda civic (I think) that was an older model with over 300k on it driven mainly in WI. He was using Bondo on the bottom of the door frame before he sold it for cheap lol. The simple little clock would stop lighting up so you'd hit the dash and it would illuminate again. Lol. Nothing fancy or fast but super reliable.

 

[Spikedriver]

Honestly, most cars are pretty reliable now. In 2012 I bought a 2001 Buick Century with 125k on it for $2300. I had it until 2016 and put 87k on it, only fixing the catalytic converter besides normal maintenance. At the end the interior was coming apart and the switches and buttons were quitting, but it still ran ok.