How Much Thought Have You Put Into Your Flashlights?

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DrHenley said:
My Surefire P2x Fury uses two CR123s. I bought a box of them when I bought the flashlight several years ago. Never changed the battery yet. The box says they have a 10 year shelf life. Maybe I'll find a use for them before the expiration date...already halfway there...:rolleyes:
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Another reason I love the lithium batteries....very long shelf life. You can put fresh CR123's in a light, set it on a shelf and pick it up 5 years later...and it's just as bright as day one.
 
I try to do away with the need for stores and stores of batteries, as much as possible, you don't know how long these things have been on the store shelf before you put them in your flashlight, the hand cranked ones do away with the need for all that, the double beam one I have is an excellent light and suits my purpose, its TASK by brand don't know if its available in the US.
 
I'm a lot less scientific about my flashlight collection, and tend to be rather cavalier about it and don't take the subject as seriously as I probably should.

I have almost 20 different kinds of flashlights. Most are LED, a few are halogen. I tend to favor Maglights, but--in all honesty--I've gotten great performance from cheaper flashlights, and I only tend to look if a flashlight is waterproof and has an LED bulb. Everybody always wants those expensive, tactical, cop-style flaslights...but I found--as a paramedic of almost 12 years, and having been in a lot of f----ked up situations (including Hurricane Andrew)--that a 2 AA cell Mini Maglight is all I ever needed. I have my original halogen bulb model from 26 years ago, and it still works just fine.

I store a combination of different batteries, and I also have a few solar powered battery chargers along with several nickle metal hydride rechargables.

I also have a few hand-crank rechargable flashlight/radio combos that work well.

I have never had problems with alkaline batteries leaking except for Duracells.

For whatever reason, Duracells are the batteries that always leaked and ruined my flashlights. I don't know why.

Batteries supposedly last longer if you keep them in the fridge.
 
Kevin L said:
I'm a lot less scientific about my flashlight collection, and tend to be rather cavalier about it and don't take the subject as seriously as I probably should.

I have almost 20 different kinds of flashlights. Most are LED, a few are halogen. I tend to favor Maglights, but--in all honesty--I've gotten great performance from cheaper flashlights, and I only tend to look if a flashlight is waterproof and has an LED bulb. Everybody always wants those expensive, tactical, cop-style flaslights...but I found--as a paramedic of almost 12 years, and having been in a lot of f----ked up situations (including Hurricane Andrew)--that a 2 AA cell Mini Maglight is all I ever needed. I have my original halogen bulb model from 26 years ago, and it still works just fine.

I store a combination of different batteries, and I also have a few solar powered battery chargers along with several nickle metal hydride rechargables.

I also have a few hand-crank rechargable flashlight/radio combos that work well.

I have never had problems with alkaline batteries leaking except for Duracells.

For whatever reason, Duracells are the batteries that always leaked and ruined my flashlights. I don't know why.

Batteries supposedly last longer if you keep them in the fridge.
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Back in 80s through the early part of 2002 Duracell’s were a good brand, like Energizer they manufacture in US, Canada, Indonesia and China, there is one more country I can’t think of at the moment, during the Holliday’s, on-sale etc.. are generally made in Asia they generally have a problem, always look on the back for country of origin, I’ve done a write up somewhere on the forum, also the 10year shelf life, I had problems with that guarantee, all my D cells were 80% depleted at 10 years I also written the results here somewhere, I wouldn’t trust the 10 year guarantee, if the batteries are 5 years old off the shelf, don’t leave them in the device, they more likely would leak, I don’t leave batteries stored in any device unless it my everyday use. Because of the problems I have had I switch all my Alkaline’s over to Lithium AA AAA in my prep store, I’ll use alkaline’s for everyday use but won’t stock up on them for storage.
 
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I keep one strip of one sized battery and 1 strip of the other, the most used sizes over here, I keep 1 or 2 spare 9volt lantern batteries, but I don't keep loads and loads of batteries, don't know how long they've been in the store or the warehouse before that. post SHTF i'll rely mainly on my hand cranked flashlights.
 
Kevin L said:
I'm a lot less scientific about my flashlight collection, and tend to be rather cavalier about it and don't take the subject as seriously as I probably should.

I have almost 20 different kinds of flashlights. Most are LED, a few are halogen. I tend to favor Maglights, but--in all honesty--I've gotten great performance from cheaper flashlights, and I only tend to look if a flashlight is waterproof and has an LED bulb. Everybody always wants those expensive, tactical, cop-style flaslights...but I found--as a paramedic of almost 12 years, and having been in a lot of f----ked up situations (including Hurricane Andrew)--that a 2 AA cell Mini Maglight is all I ever needed. I have my original halogen bulb model from 26 years ago, and it still works just fine.

I store a combination of different batteries, and I also have a few solar powered battery chargers along with several nickle metal hydride rechargables.

I also have a few hand-crank rechargable flashlight/radio combos that work well.

I have never had problems with alkaline batteries leaking except for Duracells.

For whatever reason, Duracells are the batteries that always leaked and ruined my flashlights. I don't know why.

Batteries supposedly last longer if you keep them in the fridge.
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I think a lot of people feel the same way towards flashlights but the first time I became "scientific" so to speak was during a camping trip in 2010 in the Uwharrie National Forest in NC. My buddy, who was a cop, and I brought along a lot of different lights to test in the darkness of the mountains without ambient city lights around. We found an open field about 150 yards long and started testing the different lights against the tree line. We were very impressed with the "throw" of the cold tinted led lights and felt they had more "punch" at long distances. Maybe it was simply because a colder light is easier to see at a distance.

One of the last lights we tested was a "warm tint" led light and we were shocked to see a green wooden bench right in the field against the treeline that we had not seen until then. How had we not noticed it? It was because warm tinted led's at the lower end of the Kelvin Scale reflect more accurate tones of greens and browns versus the flat 2-dimensional appearance you get with cold tinted lights. This greatly improved depth perception outdoors and allowed us to see the subtle differences between the trees, grass, animals etc. That night I realized the importance of choosing the right "tint" of flashlight depending on the need. Cold tint for indoors and warm tint for outdoors.

For 25 years I have worked as a Security Consultant specializing in creating Emergency Preparedness/Continuity Plans for businesses. I have worked in New York, Atlanta, New Orleans, Boston and all over Florida. This included 5 years of detail for the Macy's Thanksgiving Day Parade in Manhattan clearing Central Park at night to coordinating egress routes for political figures in Tampa during Gasparilla
(Tampa's version of Mardis Gras). Much of my work was at night so I discovered the importance of a bright "searchlight" with lots of "throw" in certain situations. I have had several situations where Fire or Police would ask to use my light because theirs just wasn't bright enough or didn't reach the target. Because of this I always carry a normal one cell light in my pocket as an EDC light but in my office or on my hip will be an extremely bright light with great throw and these tend to be cold tint.

I notice how a lot of guys are very analytical and opinionated when it comes to knives, machetes, backpacks etc...but when it comes to lights they just grab anything from Lowe's or WalMart. I used to think as well that there was no difference but I learned the right light for a situation can make a world of difference. The only downside is once you start experimenting with high end lights it can get very addictive and you will probably have to hide your new hobby from your wife. She will NOT understand.
 
Out in the open pastures a good bright light is worth it's weight in gold, in my neck of the wood I'm in a densely forested area that has a lot of moisture were a super bright light would be a hindrance, reliability and being rugged would be just as important as brightness if not more important especially here. We use a good really bright light in the pastures but never take the same light when heading under the forest canvas.
 
Maverick said:
Out in the open pastures a good bright light is worth it's weight in gold, in my neck of the wood I'm in a densely forested area that has a lot of moisture were a super bright light would be a hindrance, reliability and being rugged would be just as important as brightness if not more important especially here. We use a good really bright light in the pastures but never take the same light when heading under the forest canvas.
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Generally neutral or warm tinted lights with lots of flood are ideal for moving through heavily wooded forests particularly headlamp style lights that can clip on your belt or the strap on your backpack so you can keep your hands free.

This is one of my favorites, the little Olight H1R Nova. It is weightless, puts out 500 lumens of neutral light on high and recharges via USB.
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Another thing about the warm tinted lights, when following a blood trail, the blood shows up much better than with a cold tinted light. I have had lights of the same model and by the same manufacturer that had different warmth in the beam than others. I prefer the warmer ones for hunting.
 
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DrHenley said:
Another thing about the warm tinted lights, when following a blood trail, the blood shows up much better than with a cold tinted light. I have had lights of the same model and by the same manufacturer that had different warmth in the beam than others. I prefer the warmer ones.
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Yes, the blood does stand out better. That is why I always keep a warm light inside my FAK's so when working on a wound at night I will get a more accurate visual of what I'm looking at.
 
I understand all these points, and agree somewhat....but a few minor quibbles.

My maglight has different filters that I can place over the lens, so I can get different kinds of light.

Also, a really bright light is sometimes a bad thing. I don't neccesarily want to advertise my position to the whole world at night if I'm out and about.

Excess light can betray your position and situation. It also compromises the grey man persona that I try to cultivate for myself.

Also, having a variety of lower end (but not cheap!) flashlights allows me to barter and trade.

Also, parts can be swapped out on broken lower end lights, so that I can have something that will always function.
 
One point about flashlights that I would like to see addressed:

Those hand crank flashlights have a rechargable battery, and rechargable batteries tend to be good for 500 to 700 charges.

I want a hand crank flashlight that I can take apart with, say, a swiss army knife, and switch out a bad battery with a new one from my stock.

If anyone has any ideas on this issue (including faults with my reasoning), please let me know.

Thank you.
 
Kevin L said:
Excess light can betray your position and situation. It also compromises the grey man persona that I try to cultivate for myself.
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The SK98 and SK68 use a lens to focus down to the point where the beam is actually an image of the led. With it zoomed in like that, you aren't throwing a big field of light. They are not like an ordinary flashlight that has a fuzzy bright spot in the center of a wide field of light. There is no wide field of light to give off your position unless you zoom it out.
 
Most current lights have a very low or "moonlight" mode which consists of only 1 or 2 lumens. This is perfect for moving around the house at night without ruining your eyes. Several of my lights are "infinite variable" meaning you can control exactly what level of brightness you prefer by using a rotating dial or ring, some you just hold the button down and release at the level you like. It operates just like a dimmer switch. However, if you needed full intensity you can double tap and achieve full brightness instantly. These are very convenient and are my favorite UI.
 
that's an awful lot of posts about something as mundane as a flashlight, you either have a flashlight or you don't, I suspect that most on here do. end of subject.
 
what a boring subject, we either have a flashlight or we don't(most sheeple don't by the way). job done.
 
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