My Ensuite Bathroom Reno- Project #2

[zannej]

The floor has some sort of weird texture with tiny pockets that collect dirt and are hard to clean. (I did not pick this flooring out). Mopping with the floor cleaner didn't work so I had to get down on a kneeling pad with some microfiber cloths and some scrubby thingy and scrub the everloving crap out of each square. Found a bump smack dab in the middle that poked a small hole through the vinyl. Had to pull the vinyl up and get it out-- was a small screw. Can't even tell where the hole is though. It didn't lay back as flat but I don't care. If it really bothers me down the line I can adjust it again.

Got the toilet into the room, traced it with pencil on the paper to make a template for the pedestal I want to make (basically some 2x something wood to make it just a little higher so it is easier to get up from). Box for the toilet base was torn open by cats and they had puked all over it. So I had to clean it thoroughly and get all the little cardboard flakes out. Had everything set up for my friend to trim the pex & install the toilet.

Realized I could not find the waxless seal anywhere (I'm sure it will turn up later) so I grabbed one at the store. I put it on and used a silicone straw cut in half on the bolts to make it easier to line it up. I had to adjust the bolt positions as the flange is aligned properly with the wall. Had my friend drain the supply line into a bucket before cutting it off. Turning off the power to the pump didn't work but I had to go turn the whole house shutoff at the well off to get it to stop. He cut the pipe where I marked with tape and put the push-fit shutoff back on.

Couldn't find the toile supply line at first but it was in one of my tool bags so he got that installed for me. He also put on the nicer flush lever. The default one has plastic in it that breaks in a few years. Had to replace it twice on another toilet in 10years. I also like the look of my porcelain and metal lever-- parts are all metal so it won't break like the crappy plastic.

The seat is off because a small piece of plastic broke off where it attaches to the toilet and I'm letting the superglue cure for 24 hours before putting the seat on. The wonky floor to the left of the toilet will be hidden by toilet brush and other stuff. If it really starts to bug me I can always adjust it later. Looks like the excess cutting around the flange is not visible under the toilet so that is good.

Got my new trash can I got on clearance put in:

Next I need to tackle that mess on top of the vanity, get the door to the vanity re-attached, use some wood filler on voids in the plywood on the sides of the doors, do another coat of paint, get some baseboards in, etc. I do need to get my faucet changed out for a different one and get the plumbing underneath changed to a proper P-trap instead of S-trap. I still need to build my mirror to replace the current one.

I'll be cutting the wall where it is painted white to access some plumbing and will put wainscoting over it.

For now I am happy that the bathroom is at least halfway functional. Having an extra toilet in the house is so nice!

 

[zannej]

I'm not sure if I'll keep this in the bathroom or move it somewhere else-- if it doesn't fall apart when I try to move it. It's larger than it looked on the box.

Shower seat will be going in Mom's bathroom.
I'm also happy to report that the toilet completely covers the gap between the flange and the vinyl. I need to get a picture, but I put down a cover plate on the floor where the PEX comes up.

The toilet seat is only loosely in place as the fasteners it requires went missing. They don't sell them anymore so I had to order a whole hinge kit. Supposedly it is an improved design.

 

[zannej]

The laundry cart turned out to be useful for storing some tools and plumbing parts. I might be able to get more stuff off the vanity and into it but will still need to find better storage solutions.

Got a cover plate where the PEX comes up through the floor (I also really like that toilet lever)

Got the old hinge off the toilet-- no pics bc it was disgusting- I had to use clorox wipes in crevices where it was removed. Getting the first little cylinder to come out was a pain-- plastic started breaking-- but I finally got it. 2nd one came out easier. Put the new one on and bottom plate kept falling off so I had to tape it on. The old hinge had a thicker bottom plate. Ran into a problem because whoever put this together before shipping it out put the brackets on wrong (they are upsidedown). Rounded part should be down and more rectangular part should be on top. The little claws on the quick release kept popping off and I was getting mad.

I used these bolts with rubber "bungs" to keep the bolts from moving around and messing up the porcelain. The white cap thingies didn't fit so I left them off, but the metal washer fit.

This shows the brackets on the correct way

I already posted the pics of all the piled up clutter in the rant thread so I won't post here. This is how it looks currently

The small wastebasket is so I don't have to reach down to push the lever to open the larger trashcan-- for smaller stuff like q-tips and wet wipes. I might move the larger trash can elsewhere. Maybe closer to the door. I'm not sure. I'll play around with moving furniture around later. I'm not happy with how dark that bath mat is. It has a small tear in it on one of the ends. I may just give it to the cats as a bed and get a lighter colored one.

 

[zannej]

I went to put the Henry's leveling powder box inside the vanity to get it out of the way and realized it had flattened the crease in the vinyl completely. So instead I moved it over to see if it will flatten the remaining part of the crease.
I made good use of my cart:

Last night I cleared the sink out and vacuumed a little (leveling powder spilled on it). I moved everything over to the left side, scrubbed the right side clean, dried it, and then took every item and either threw it away, put it away somewhere, took it out of the room, or piled it on the laundry cart. I only kept stuff I wanted on the vanity up there and after cleaning them I moved them over to the left side. Once everything was moved I cleaned the right side and then moved a few items back.

Now I need to grab a few of my items from Mom's bathroom- mostly dental care supplies. I already have some q-tips so I can set them up. Need to find my cup holder and set it up. I'll get my little bag of dental supplies and rx mouthwash placed somewhere. I might dump the blue mouthwash that is up on the vanity since its been there over 10 years. I poured out some godawful red colored mouthwash and threw it out. Little liquid soap dispenser is almost empty and when it is I'll toss it and put soap in the larger container. I still need to clean out the tub- and I put a few things like towel bars and such in the tub. I still need to get a cabinet to go above the toilet. I have my eye on one but it's $159. It's solid plywood and real oak (unfinished).

Meanwhile, I have before and after pics:

I still need to get another coat of paint on the cabinets, the door put back on, the hardware installed, etc. Need to find some paintable wood putty/filler for the edges of the doors and drawers. I have some white putty but I need to see if it can be painted. Then I need to get stains out of the sink. I need to get pics of it. I still need to build a frame for the new mirror. I have a lot more to do but at least this is functional now. My brother came running in this morning because Mom was in her bathroom.

 

[zannej]

Before (taken in the day with some natural light coming in but I think flash might have been on)

And current (taken at night with flash). Still has the cleaning paste all up in it.

 

[havasu]

I'm afrain that rust is under the porcelain, and will never come clean.

 

[zannej]

Some of it won't come off but I got it looking like this:

There are some scratches in the sink (that were there before I started cleaning). I need to measure it to see if a replacement is feasible. That caulk is just an eyesore. Mom's sink looked oval but turned out to be round so I think this one might be oval as well. In the meantime, I might try to cover the black edge and I need to get the old caulk off and put clean new caulk on that isn't all bumpy.

 

[RaelynnVelasquez]

Personally, I hired a contractor to solve that issue. I think it’s the most reasonable way out of this situation. Still, I’m impressed by your work. You’ve done a really good job. Those before and after pics are shocking! Thanks for sharing your updates.

 

[zannej]

Thanks, RaelynnVeasquez. Part of my problem is that my area is so rural and so far out in the woods that I've had trouble getting anyone to come out. There were only two licensed residential contractors in my area and both died years ago. The "contractors" who did work for insurance companies after the hurricanes would only work in town and then I saw some of the work they did and would not want to hire them anyway. I've seen amateurs on youtube do better work than these clowns.

I did add a little more clutter to my bathroom-- a Brita water pitcher, q-tips (which I hope to get a proper container for soon), and a water pick. I think like 80% of my stuff is dental care stuff.

 

[RaelynnVelasquez]

Personally, I hired a contractor to solve that issue. I think it’s the most reasonable way out of this situation. Still, I’m impressed by your work. You’ve done a really good job. Those before and after pics are shocking! Thanks for sharing your updates.

You know, my wife and I are currently thinking of remodeling our bath. We’ve already found the company that would do the redesign (Home Remodeling Lafayette LA | Home Improvement Lafayette LA). My wife’s brother works there, actually. So, this project is too complicated for me to make it real myself. That’s why I highly respect your work. Keep us updated!

 

[zannej]

Thanks.
Lafayette is a few hours away from here.
Right now I'm researching drywall, the various muds, the seam tape, etc. I was thinking of getting Fibafuse but then saw it would require mud under it and I'd rather not deal with extra steps like that so I'm leaning toward Fibatape moldx10 for the seams and easysand90 for the mud. Will probably use purple board to go behind the tub surround. But I am open for other suggestions from people with experience in drywall & doing shower surrounds.
I will probably use purple board for above mom's shower & in the guest bathroom as well.
My attempt to clean the toilet seat did get it a bit lighter. Been getting complaints from Mom about the toilet in her bathroom needing to be cleaned since I was the only one who cleaned it and now I am not using that bathroom anymore.

Measured my sink and it is 18" round. If I want to replace it at some point it is good to know that.

I tried to measure the wood under the tub to see how tall it is but my measuring tape's metal piece blocked the numbers. I need a different one I guess. Looked like it might be 1" and the hole the mice chewed in the sheet vinyl goes out at least 1/2" from what I could tell. They sell shoe molding and quarterround with dimensions no greater than 3/4" from what I could find. I may paint it white (at least at the very top) and see if I can get it to push in more where it sticks out-- but that still leaves the mouse-hole gap on the flooring.

 

[zannej]

I've selected a wall surround. Nice and simple glue up one with a single lower shelf in the middle of the back wall, lower down. The sharp corners on the inside will let me use my Delta corner grab bar shelf. I am thinking of getting one of those tension rod shelf thingies for the other corner. When I'm soaping up I tend to stand away from the showerhead and I need something to grab on to so the left corner would be good for the grab bar shelf. I'm also thinking of adding some sort of suction cup corner shelves. Pondering getting a wall-mount (suction cup or doublesided tape) shampoo and soap dispenser so I can empty my shampoo and bodywash into it and not have to worry about bottles falling off of shelves or being dropped. I would only need 2 dispensers since I get bodywash/face wash combo and shampoo/conditioner combo.

This is the shower surround I'm looking at : Mustee Durawall MUSTEE Durawall 30 in. x 60 in. x 58 in. 3-Piece Easy Up Adhesive Alcove Bath Tub Surround in White 350WHT - The Home Depot

Still looking at the shower caddy options.
Anyone have suggestions? I want either chrome or white. Probably chrome since white might discolor.

 

[zannej]

This is my list of things still to do (not listing purchasing things)
*Remove old shower wallset
*Cut hole in painted portion of wall behind toilet to access/add plumbing vents
*Replace S-traps with proper traps
*Repair/reinforce area with cut joist
*Repair/shore up spot under house where ground eroded & support block dropped
*Add something to prevent further erosion
*Replace regular drain on tub with direct drain to avoid conflict with joist
*Put a pressure treated 2x12 under toilet to create platform (but trim to fit shape of toilet
*Fix DWV- replacing drain for toilet & extending up to have flange (already purchased) on 2x12
*Caulk around 3 sides of toilet (leaving back open)
*Replace wall switches & outlets
*Install new vanity light (already purchased)- may require cutting in to wall above vanity to access wiring unless I can gain access to wires in attic
*Use flashing at bottom of moisture barrier above tub to direct water to tub at bottom of wallboard
*Install waterproof hardie backerboard around tub & seal seams
*install Mustee (or other type) glue-up surround
*Install corner shelf grab bar (already purchased)
*Install new showerhead, shower trim, tub spout, shower arm, escutcheon, (already purchased)
*Install new shower curtain rod (already purchased)
*Install new tp holder, towel ring, towel bar, etc
*Build frame for new mirror & install
*Sand, prime, and paint door
*install new lever on door (already purchased)
*install lightweight mirrors for doors on both sides of door (black on bedroom side-- already purchased, white on bathroom side)
*sand & repaint vanity
*Sand & repaint dresser drawers
*Install tank topper cabinet (after painting it)
*Install door and drawer hardware (already purchased)
*Fix hinges on vanity doors
*Install baseboard, wainscoting, and other necessary trim
*Clean tub & repair large scrape
*soak in the bathtub & relax

Has anyone here ever worked with the hydrodefense (waterproof) hardie backerboard?

 

[zannej]

HD alerted me that the wallset was in yesterday & I pestered my friend into helping me go get it. I bought him Taco Bell food to thank him (I almost always get him food when he helps me with something). I suck at using tie downs and was not feeling well. The box was damaged on the outside but the contents thus far seem to be ok. They did put the box in the truck with the top down (ignoring the THIS SIDE UP markings) but it was at an angle and its not too heavy.
He & my brother put the box in my bathroom and I checked the damaged corner which seems to be ok. I was absolutely exhausted and almost collapsed after I took my friend back home, so I will have to open the box and inspect it better.
I did notice it doesn't look white. More of an off-white almost beige, but I'm hoping that is the lighting and the plastic wrap around it. It will annoy me if it isn't actually white, but I can live with it.

I want to do 1/4" cement board behind it and I think it would be best to take it all the way to the ceiling, but I will have to see how things go when I get the current wall panels off. I think I need about 6 panels & will have some scraps leftover.
I need some sort of modified thinset to cover the tape (I'm using alkalai resistant self adhesive fibatape) but I have no clue what to get. I want something that won't set up too fast but that won't take days to dry. Something I can sand easily and paint over. Also, I don't want to mess with 50lb sacks. Any recommendations on what to use?
I also want to paint the walls above the surround. One problem is that the wall panels don't go all the way to the edge of the tub, so I will have to find some sort of waterproof trim or something to cover the edge and get to the corner of the wall (which is 2" from the apron of the tub). I need to figure out how to handle those corners where the cementboard ends and around the side is printed wood panel. I can put up outer corner trim or something I suppose (builders put a strip of rough wood up in that spot). I'll have to get more pictures later.

 

[havasu]

Those wall panels are made to go over existing jobs I believe. If you are going down to studs, get no less than 1/2" cement board for behind the panels, and 1/2" green, moisture resistant wall board (drywall) for the exposed surface. they will be the same thickness, and easy to paint. Use thinset for the cement board, and drywall mud for the exposed surface. Please do not try to shortcut this process by adding cement board all the way up to the ceiling and painting it. It will look horrible!

 

[zannej]

I'm curious as to why cementboard would look horrible painted. Does it not take paint as well as greenboard (or purple)?

The wall panels I have on are currently 1/4" thick so I figured I could keep that same thickness, but if you think 1/2" would be better, I can do that. I was thinking the 1/4" would be cheaper and lighter weight but I'm no expert on these things. I suppose 1/4" could break more easily.

So the recommendation is to use cementboard up to the height of the wall panels and then go to drywall (I like the purple kind)?
Is there a type of mud or thinset that can bridge them together?

Worst case I can always put some sort of pvc trim boards at the top to cover seams.

 

[havasu]

You can buy a small can of ready made joint compound, and a small bag of thinset, but there is not just one product since you have both concrete and paper mediums, since drywall is paper lined.

 

[zannej]

That's why I was thinking of having the cementboard all the way up and painting it. Then I would add some sort of moulding at the top. Would the purple drywall work if greenboard isn't available here?
Also, since the most efficient use of the cementboard is to use two horizontal pieces on the back wall and a vertical panel on each end wall, that would make the back panels come up 72" and the side ones 60". The surround is 58". Should I cut them all off at the 58" mark? Or go to 60"? Or should I just use two whole pieces for the back wall and go up the 72" and bridge to drywall above that?
Absolute worst case scenario, I have some peel & stick vinyl floor tiles that I could use some 3M spray on for extra sticking power and put them on the walls above the surround. I'm hoping for just some semi-gloss paint though.

 

[havasu]

If the walls of that tub surround was steady enough, why not use the green board (or purple, but 30% more $) all the way? Not knowing what the directions say, if it is100% waterproof, why even use cement board?

 

[zannej]

The directions said it had to be cementboard or something like that. Greenboard isn't available at stores in my area (I looked). I consulted the mfr of the surround and of the purple drywall and both confirmed it needs cementboard. I'd wanted to use the purple drywall but they told me it wouldn't work. I think it would delaminate.

So, I need to figure out the best way to transition from cementboard to drywall and to transition from cementboard to the 1/4" wood panels. Although, I'm thinking of just putting the tape on and using some sort of moulding to cover it. I don't mind having moulding because right now I have ugly rough wood strips anyway.

Maybe a dumb question, but do they make trim that has a rabbet edge to cover two different wall thicknesses?

I'm probably overthinking this but I don't want the wall panels to peel off like the current ones are doing.

 

[havasu]

Why would you use any existing wall? Take all the wall off, and replace with Durock under the panels, and purple board from the top of the panels to the ceiling. You also mentioned that something wasn't the correct size. Do you need to build up a wall? I don't know where that issue is.

 

[zannej]

I'm keeping my existing walls in the rest of the bathroom and one wall is on the same plane as the tub wall.

The tub is 31" but the surround wall only comes out 29" (although it is advertised as 30"). The 1/2" drywall should bring it closer to the tub edge. I'll keep the curtain drawn when showering so that part of the wall might not get hit with water as much, but I've got about 2" from the edge of the surround to the edge of the tub that I will need to make sure is waterproof. I suppose I can get wider pvc trim boards and notch them around the tub and bring them to the floor next to the tub. The existing wood trim covers the gap between the tub and the wall. So, the 1/2" you recommended will help cover that.

 

[zannej]

I just had a possibly hairbrained idea. I did some measuring. The existing surround in my bathroom goes up 60" above the tub. The center of the shower arm is ~57" above the tub. The new shower surround is 58"H and has a lip. The showerhead is currently too low so I want to bump it up above the surround enough that the flange will fit on without looking awkward. I'll have to measure the flange. I'll have to figure out the measurement. If put cementboard for just a few more inches above the surround, I can use something like this at the top edge of the cementboard strip above the surround: ClarkDietrich 1/2 in. x 10 ft. Vinyl Rip Bead L-Trim 1/2 VLZL-10 - The Home Depot

That way I can keep the printed plywood above (it has lasted since the 70s thus far). Maybe I can paint any exposed parts of cement board with drylok. Alternatively, I could cut the cementboard off just above the surround- enough to use the rip bead piece- and use a pvc board that is wide enough for the shower flange to fit on and slap that up so the showerhead can protrude through it and it will cover the wall more.

 

[zannej]

My current plan:
Go to stores to pick up supplies/materials
Sort out the plumbing valves & controls and such (I should have everything I need already)
Make template out of cardboard for holes that need to be cut
Put plastic sheets up on walls over studs so wood will not be in direct contact with cement board
Run cement board up to the height of the new surround (58").
Paint Mapei AquaDefense on all edges that will not get thinset and around any holes cut
Cut it off just above the surround-- enough to put the tear away trim on.
Run sides of side wall cement board out to end of wall on the right and same distance on the left
Use tear away trim at edges
Use trimmed off cementboard to go down just above floor next to tub (may need to add some blocking in wall for reinforcement)
Use leftover tear away beads next to tub side
Spread thinset (still trying to decide on type-- need modified thinset)
Use aquadefense over thinset in corners, top, and bottom perimeter as extra precaution
Glue up surround
Paint drylok on any exposed pieces of cement board to be painted over with Killz later
Trim existing 1/4" printed plywood panels above surround enough to put up 3.5" PVC boards
Drill hole in middle of PVC board on right wall for showerhead (need to get correct sized bit for boring through)
Put pvc boards up on side edges of shower to cover exposed painted cement board
Caulk with 100% silicone around everywhere that needs to be caulked

I know it is a lot of work, but I'm hoping things will go smoothly. I may have to shim behind some walls to make sure everything is straight so I'll pick up some shims. I need to make sure I find all of my tools and materials that I already have at home before picking stuff up.

I'm limited to the thinset options available at home depot or lowes in Alexandria - zipcode 71303. Anyone have suggestions? I don't want it to dry too fast to work with, but still want it to dry fast enough to be able to move on to sanding. Dry time maybe 45min to an hour? Even 30min might be enough. Gotta ask my friend how fast he is at mudding.

Is thinset about the same as drywall mud in terms of application?

Edit: I think I found the thinset. Meets the required standards. Working time 30min. Dries in 3 to 4 hours. If used on floors can be walked on in 6 hours. Getting a bucket with a lid to give more working time bc in the bucket it dries faster. https://www.lowes.com/pd/MAPEI-Rapid-Setting-50-lb-Gray-Thinset-Tile-Mortar/5014025091

Current state of my bathroom:

I'm going to get the rest of it cleared out tomorrow and move things to better places. That mop is broken so I can toss it.

 

[zannej]

Cleared the tub out. Need to vacuum and wipe it down better. I was going to buy a new tub stopper but I think I have one in a drawer. If I can't find it I'll buy one, but I will go look for one in a bit.

 

[zannej]

I need to sweep up and vacuum, but I found all of the pieces I already have that I need for the shower installation. I tore down the surround panels on the back wall and left wall. Need to get the tub spout and showerhead off to get the other one off. I was surprised there is wood behind. The back wall crumbled into pieces. Looked like it had old termite damage. Gonna have to pry that plywood out somehow too. It's going to be tight working space, but hopefully we can make some progress tomorrow.

 

[zannej]

I figured I would tear off that damaged plywood and reveal the stud pockets. Imagine my surprise when I found wooden planks with old termite damage. Some of them are pretty rough but they are secured to studs and are solid where I need them to be.

The plywood was less damaged at the bottom but it was tucked behind the flange so we had to remove it. Tried with a chisel first. That didn't cut it. Resorted to oscillating attachment on my Matrix. Took awhile but we finally got it off. I had some gloves ready for my friend and he tore the walls down. I forgot to get pics. He also scraped as much of that caulk off as he could. It was like rubber. They really went overboard with it.

Did a dry fit of one cement board and found the walls lean away at the top and the tub slopes to the right. Will need extra spacers to get the cementboard level. I also have composite shims. My friend started to secure the cement board and then I remembered the plastic sheathing. I told him I don't want cement board making direct contact with the wood (since I'm not taking down the rest of that wood). Friend marked stud locations higher on the wall for future reference.

Removing the tub spout was a bear. That sucker was stuck on there and he had to get the big wrench out. That sucker could be a weapon. Had to go into the closet in the hallway to cut off the old pipes to remove the old trim from behind. Measured and marked locations for new trim and adjustment to showerhead (raising it up). The center of the trim will be ~21" from the top of the tub. Decided to be lazy and that the tub spout will go through the hole for the old diverter (raising it up to be within 18" of the center of the valve per mfr directions).

I realized that I still needed to clean the flange in order to get the tape to stick to it properly on the bottom to hold the plastic sheet in place. Friend took a break while I started scrubbing and realized that wasn't working. Made a cleaning paste out of white vinegar and baking soda. I slathered it on thick and have it soaking. I'll clean it off tomorrow. Probably going to need more than one attempt at it, but the main goal is to make sure nothing is gritty enough to cause the tape to detach so if this doesn't take it off, the tape won't either. But I do want to remove some stains.

Current status:

My friend is busy the next few days so on the next day he's available he'll come over to work on things again. Hoping to get holes drilled, cementboard cut to size and put up, edges sealed with aqua defense, etc. This will probably take a few weeks with his schedule.

 

[zannej]

I cleaned debris out of the tub and vacuumed. Trimmed the plastic to be more manageable. Started removing the paste & scrubbing the hell out of the tub. Rinsed with vinegar, wiped with paper towel with rubbing alcohol. Had to use a chisel to get some of the stuff off. I'm currently having it soak in some rubbing alcohol to see if that will help remove more residue. I noticed that it helped soften it up a bit. I'm taking a break to let the air clear and rest my hand.

Cleaning paste in place

After a ton of scrubbing

Started on the back section

 

[zannej]

Latest pics after I scrubbed the tub last night and this morning:

I'm going to put the cut off plastic in the tub to catch debris and keep it clean.

 

[zannej]

The wood planks are in rough shape. I'm going to vacuum debris off of them and see how they look afterward. There are two holes I want to fill with great stuff so mice & bugs don't crawl up and chew the plastic. I wonder if I should cover them in Killz or if I should try to do something to reinforce them. I was thinking of putting some wood putty on to smooth things out but I'm worried that spreading stuff on might cause more deterioration.

Any suggestions?