Outside faucet question

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Peanut

Peanut

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Outside faucet question. I live in the lower unit of a 2-story duplex. The floor of my house is a reinforced 6-inch-thick concrete slab. The slab continues outside for another 6 feet which is my porch. My front wall is std 8-inch cinderblock covered by brick.

I need an external insulated faucet on my front porch for plants and such. I’m also hoping I can run a pressure washer from the faucet. The first photo is underneath my kitchen sink which is against the front wall. Water to the sink is through pvc pipes that were run down the center of the wall.

I thought the easiest approach would be to mount a “T” above the pvc coupling under the sink. One leg/flex-hose would continue up to the sink. The other leg would be a flex-hose through a small hole punched through the cinderblock and brick to the porch. Externally I’d mount the faucet to the brick. There is no mortgage/insurance concerns or building codes where I live.

I think @Frodo is our resident plumber but has anyone ever added an external faucet? Looking for ideas.

Porch faucet (1).JPG
Porch faucet (2).JPG
 
I'd prefer 3/4" for an outside hose bib but you can live with 1/2". Tee off the 1/2" cold line and put in a second valve on the inside so you can shut it off in the winter or to make repairs.
 
If I were you....
I would rent, borrow, a Hammer drill and a 1'' hammer drill masonary bit
Th bit needs to be 12'' long.
I ASSUME You sink is centered on the window?
Find the EXACT center outsid by dropping a plumb bob And mark the brick
Measure from Floor Up and find the center of the cold pipe Under the sink
make a mark on the brick outside

move over 6'' from the mark. and UP 2'' DRILL a 1' hole through brick and wall
insert a 12'' frost proof HB into the hole .DO NOT SECURE YET

Turn off the water to the house
remove the supply line
remove the valve
Remove that ILLEGAL 1/2 x 3/8 black threaded reducer
install a BRASS threaded 1/2'' TEE
install a BRASS reducer on top of the tee and hook the sink back up.

use a 5 1/2'' nipple in the tee [brass] install a elbow on the nipple
scrrew the frost proof hb into the elbow


Fill the anulal space in the wall with spray foam
secure hb to outside wall with tap cons or blues/screws

You may have to adjust nipple length
Woodford 12'' x 1/2'' frost proof HB

CORRECTION
8''cinder block 4 .5'' brick. 4'' wall = 16.5''
you need a 16''HB and an extension for the bit

Menards

Woodford® 1/2" MPT x 1/2" FSWT x 18" L Freezeless Anti-Siphon Wall Hydrant
Model Number: 17CP-18-MH

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Woodfor...-Inlet-Anti-Siphon-Wall-Faucet-w-Metal-Handle
1599381207092.png


WHY BRASS instead of pvc or cpvc??????
Makes it Mo ridgid, for the sil that pulls on the hose LOL PVC tends to snap off when snatched by a gorilla
 
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This is my winter project. The house faces south and there are lots of warm winter days here in Alabama with the sun shining on the porch.

Check, have a Milwaukee hammer drill and good assortment of masonry bits. To save buying another bit I'm pretty sure I can hit the same hole from the other side. Half the hole from one side, half from the other.

Check, spray foam, two unused cans on the shelf.

Check, door knob drill bit to get through the back of the cabinet.

Thanks @Caribou I like the idea of a cutoff valve inside...

Thanks @Frodo I think your instructions are straight forward. I've never done much plumbing. In fact, the biggest plumbing job I was ever involved with was building this house in 1974. I've forgotten a few details in the decades since. biggrin.gif
 
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Well, can't think of a thing I'd add to all of above.
Pretty straight forward..drill holes thru wall, cabinet, connect valve and frost free valve ..voila..easy peasy ...done.

Ain't it funny how much easier it is to say it...than do it.
10 minute job , right?

More like 2 hrs + after you've got everything you need .

For me..
At least all day.
Nah, I can't get down that low and then get back up, so it's a hire it done job.

When your decrepit, and old, you got the know how, just not the ability.

If you was closer I'd loan you the star bits and drills.

Jim
 
I didn't see these 2 points mentioned:
Frodo may have covered it in this statement "move over 6'' from the mark. and UP 2'' DRILL a 1' hole through brick and wall "
When you drill your hole through the brick, you want it pitched downward as it goes towards the exterior. This way, when you close the inside valve and open the outside spigot come winter, any water in the pipe will drain out (and thus avoid freeze risk).

When choosing where to drill and if possible, you want to try and hit the open part of the cinder block. If you try and drill through the solid center portions of the brick, it'll be much more difficult. If you catch the edge of the solid portion, your bit will have problems going straight.
 
The Lazy L said:
Take a long 1/4” masonry bit to drill completely though the wall. Then you will have a guide hole on both sides of the wall, no guessing and you can make minor adjustments if needed.
Click to expand...
When using this technique I drill the hole downhill so the faucet will naturally drain. The angle is 1/2" drop in 10". It's not enough to mess you up but is enough to get the job done. I make up a cardboard pattern with 10" on 3 sides and 9 1/2" on the other. I've never tried this in concrete.
 
phideaux said:
10 minute job , right?

More like 2 hrs + after you've got everything you need .

For me..
At least all day.
Click to expand...
I would amend this, add a few more hours to "Call a plumber to fix my failed mess and stop ongoing flood damage to the residential structure. Pay through the nose because it will no doubt be an emergency call, in the middle of the night, on a holiday weekend."
 
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zoomzoom said:
If plumbing isn't in your skillset, you may want to consider "sharkbite connectors"
Click to expand...
OH GAWD NO.....
You just entered into my pet peeve area LOL
Back up slowly and do not touch anything
slowly close the door and do not open it again.

no shark bite, shark bite bad,

use pex and a crimp tool instead
altho i do no see what is complicated about screwing a fitting. but hey. i'm chill
 
Pex yes, SharkBite yes. I've used flared, threaded, crimped (multiple types), and SharkBite, all to great success. SharkBite is my favourite but is not always my choice depending on the situation. Like anything else, you need to do it right.
 
Shark bite is not a time tested product. It is quick and easy BUT
The seal on a shark bite is a rubber o ring , The o ring has been know to fail
I was around in the early 80's when polybutalene was the next best thing to a hot cup of coffee
and I was around when it failed and the law suits went on for years
PEX in my opinion is going to face the same thing it is just a matter of time.
mice chew holes in it to get water and pin holes are being reported to apear where it comes thru the concrete. The reason for the pin holes is not know at this time. BUT....


https://www.consumerclassactionlawy...lures-class-action-lawsuit-investigation.html
https://www.classaction.org/zurn-pex-plumbing-lawsuits
When a product goes into a class action lawsuit i STOP using it till the law suit is finished, I will not intentionally harm my customers for a few bucks
 
I installed SharkBites almost 20 years ago that are still in operation, without a problem. Pex is manufactured in three basic grades. I only use Pex A which has >90% cross linking. It is the only Pex that you can cold expand. I expect that your leak inside concrete is either from the deterioration of the metal connectors or from micro cracks that can develop in Pex B (not to be confused with B Pex), or Pex C.
 
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My current house and my last house both used PEX everywhere in the house. I would have wanted copper but I admit I never had an issue with the PEX. Between the 2 houses it has been 15+ years living with PEX. But I still don't like it :)
 
I'll play Devil's advocate here for just a bit. In principal your idea sounds good. You have the supply line to the sink located just about where you'd like to have a faucet bib for your porch on the exterior, so as long as you can pipe through that exterior wall, your good to go.

Exterior supply for irrigation & yard use is separated from the home supply by what's called an Anti-Siphon Valve. It work on the same principal as an anti backflow valve if your on a well supply. A backflow preventer valve would be located between your well pump supply, and your supply pressure tank. It's purpose is to prevent any water already in pressure tank from draining back into the well supply in case power is cut to the pump.

You want an Anti Siphon valve for much the same reason. Say you have a garden hose hooked to the bib, but the valve is off, and no water is flowing thru the hose. Then someone pours something into the hose, and puts a pressure nozzle with a shutoff feature in the shutoff position, on the hose end, then charges the line by opening the hose faucet. With no water leaving the hose because of the closed nozzle on the end, the outside garden hose, and whatever is in it, now essentially becomes an extension of your indoor plumbing. And, if there is water being used inside the house, the hose water will be siphoned into your supply and start flowing out of your faucets.

Since your not located in a city, urban codes wouldn't apply, but there usually is some County provision. A water well contractor would probably tell you over the phone faster than trying to look it up.

It does sound like a good idea though. No intention from me to cast doom & gloom.
 
hiwall said:
My current house and my last house both used PEX everywhere in the house. I would have wanted copper but I admit I never had an issue with the PEX. Between the 2 houses it has been 15+ years living with PEX. But I still don't like it :)
Click to expand...
When I bought my HUD home, it had been vacant for a few years, and a number of things made of metal were stolen, one of those being the copper pipes. HUD had the pipes replaced with PEX and someone told me that I should have them replaced because PEX wouldn't last long. That was 30 years ago.
 
PEx should outlast copper. I had a freeze up so I replaced all my copper with PEx. A few years later I had another freeze up. No ripping sheetrock off and replacing it after fixing the copper. I had to push one SharkBite back on the PEx. Keep PEx out of direct sun.

Had about a $10,000 repair of a frozen up home. It had a history of annual splits in its domestic and heating system. I replaced everything with PEx that I could. One of my competitors was upset because he had work every year repairing the same stuff and now he won't be getting those calls. If I'd had to put copper back in the labor would have been far higher.
 
So is this kind of what you are doing? I used 1/2" copper as it was what was at the kitchen. I also put a shutoff before the frost free/anti-siphon valve (chrome part showing at the edge of the cabinet and going to the outside of the house).
1599449186805.jpeg
 
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SeventiesWreckers said:
I'll play Devil's advocate here for just a bit. In principal your idea sounds good. You have the supply line to the sink located just about where you'd like to have a faucet bib for your porch on the exterior, so as long as you can pipe through that exterior wall, your good to go.

Exterior supply for irrigation & yard use is separated from the home supply by what's called an Anti-Siphon Valve. It work on the same principal as an anti backflow valve if your on a well supply. A backflow preventer valve would be located between your well pump supply, and your supply pressure tank. It's purpose is to prevent any water already in pressure tank from draining back into the well supply in case power is cut to the pump.

You want an Anti Siphon valve for much the same reason. Say you have a garden hose hooked to the bib, but the valve is off, and no water is flowing thru the hose. Then someone pours something into the hose, and puts a pressure nozzle with a shutoff feature in the shutoff position, on the hose end, then charges the line by opening the hose faucet. With no water leaving the hose because of the closed nozzle on the end, the outside garden hose, and whatever is in it, now essentially becomes an extension of your indoor plumbing. And, if there is water being used inside the house, the hose water will be siphoned into your supply and start flowing out of your faucets.

Since your not located in a city, urban codes wouldn't apply, but there usually is some County provision. A water well contractor would probably tell you over the phone faster than trying to look it up.

It does sound like a good idea though. No intention from me to cast doom & gloom.
Click to expand...
The outside valve that Frodo pictured above is an Anti Siphon valve
 
I've had nothing but good experience with PEX. It's freeze resistant, (note: not freeze proof), where I live that's a huge deal. I wouldn't use anything else. The only downside I can find is that good pex tools are a bit pricey for a homeowner. I have a cheapo crimper that works with a Vise Grips, it works ok but a dedicated crimper is better.

Hope this project goes well for you!
 
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