Time for some new equipment soon?

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I haven't stayed current on pricing for 15 years or more. So can not comment on price. The specs look good if it will support your load and you have 48 V battery banks.

Ben
Moving up to 48v allows you to move twice as much power thru the same size wiring as a 24v system.
Many members have posted how many hundred$ they have shelled out for heavy cabling for low-voltage systems. :(
I worked with machines with 50hp 48VDC motors and they ran fine with cables the size of your pinky-finger.
 
Personally I think their batteries are overpriced but their panels are good I have 20 of the 300 watt. I also have one of their charge controllers on the GC. This would be the first of the all in one units I've used.

My system has been 48 volt for a dozen or more years... Always using Aims 48 volt inverters except the one cheapo I bought to test, it failed!
 
I'm kind of new to the solar setups so this is from reviews of others as opposed to my personal experience.
All my solar panels and both of my charge controllers are Renogy. The other components from Renogy I'm sure are high quality but a bit too pricey for my little setup.
I'm using Weize LiFePO4 batteries.
Can't recommend a 48v inverter as I'm only using a 12V 4000W.
 
I'm kind of new to the solar setups so this is from reviews of others as opposed to my personal experience.
All my solar panels and both of my charge controllers are Renogy. The other components from Renogy I'm sure are high quality but a bit too pricey for my little setup.
I'm using Weize LiFePO4 batteries.
Can't recommend a 48v inverter as I'm only using a 12V 4000W.
4000 watts at 12 volts requires 333.3 amps.
You gotta have some damfat, expensive cables to handle that! :oops:
A 48v system only requires 1/4 of that, 83.3a, to supply the same 4000w of power.
Same power, much less expensive copper cabling. :thumbs:
 
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I have to be honest in my "opinion" the "R" inverters performance depends a lot on the application and how you are using them... I had trouble with some of their smaller ones due to ground fault sensitivity when using with a transfer switch. If I use them stand alone they are find but not with the transfer switch.

I have had good service out of their charge controllers and solar panels.

At this point I'm like @zoomzoom using a 12V-4000 watt unit with really big cables and very short cable runs... :)
 
4000 watts at 12 volts requires 333.3 amps.
You gotta have some damfat, expensive cables to handle that! :oops:
A 48v system only requires 1/4 of that, 83.3a, to supply the same 4000w of power.
Same power, much less expensive copper cabling. :thumbs:
Yeah my cabling is WAY oversize and I like it that way. IIRC I can run 500 amps continuous through my double or was it quadruple cables the size of my fat index fingers! Copper was cheap enough back when I bought them planning them to fit ANY need that may arise as the years progress! Pretty sure I am running quad cabling! I know over kill but they NEVER get warm!!!!!!!!
 
My system is 24v and I use a Magnum inverter. Yes, the cables are large but they're very short runs. My battery bank is 12 Rolls batteries at 1169 ah each. I've got 2 solar arrays, 1 is 10 panels at 295 watts each This summer I installed 4 new panels at 415 watts each about 200' away. They both point slightly different directions. I ran 10 ga wire from the new panels 200' to the new charge controller. Everything works great, except on cloudy days, then the generator automatically starts.
 
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My system is 24v and I use a Magnum inverter. Yes, the cables are large but they're very short runs. My battery bank is 12 Rolls batteries at 1169 ah each. I've got 2 solar arrays, 1 is 10 panels at 295 each This summer I installed 4 new panels at 415 watts each about 200' away. They both point slightly different directions. I ran 10 ga wire from the new panels 200' to the new charge controller. Everything works great, except on cloudy days, then the generator automatically starts.

Magnum inverters have a great reputation. My pockets are kinda shallow for them though.
 
That's a good run on any kind of equipment without issue. My aims inverters started having small issues after about 7-8 years. They led to larger issues so I bought a second and it's now on about year 5 or so. In all honesty I often ran the Aims inverters past their limit but they always did it. Never had problems until july / aug with the AC running in addition to the fridge and deep freezer + the rest of the house. It was more heat problems than anything. My power system is NOT in a climate controlled or even coolish area. It's a tiny 6x8 building with no shade and also has 35-40 KWH of very old AGM cells (96) configured in 4 strings @ 48 volts.
 
I'm really pleased with my 2 volt × 12, 1169 ah Rolls batteries.
I hear they are super nice and long lived when taken care of. That's one heck of a bank! My total was a little over half that.
I'm looking forward to the switch to LifePO4 less space less weight more usable AH or KWH . I never was one to draw my batteries down hard. 49.6 volts under load was about the lowest they ever went until this year. Now they are dying off faster and faster with the same loads applied so time for some new ones. If I can pull it off that is!
 
At this point I'm like @zoomzoom using a 12V-4000 watt unit with really big cables and very short cable runs... :)
@Supervisor42 & @UrbanHunter

Now you got me thinking if my wire may be inadequate. :(
I have (3) 100Ah batteries connected in parallel. I'll have to confirm but pretty sure I'm using 2-gauge wire between them. Each cable is about 1 foot.
From the last battery, I'm running 2-gauge wire to the inverter. Distance is a foot or two.

Is that heavy enough? I'm thinking of other 12v systems (e.g. vehicles) that have very high CCA's but don't use wire that are super thick.
 
@Supervisor42 & @UrbanHunter

Now you got me thinking if my wire may be inadequate. :(
I have (3) 100Ah batteries connected in parallel. I'll have to confirm but pretty sure I'm using 2-gauge wire between them. Each cable is about 1 foot.
From the last battery, I'm running 2-gauge wire to the inverter. Distance is a foot or two.

Is that heavy enough? I'm thinking of other 12v systems (e.g. vehicles) that have very high CCA's but don't use wire that are super thick.
In a vehicle the high amp draw only lasts a few seconds during cranking.
Not enough time for heat buildup.
To check if your wiring is adequate, simply feel how warm they are during peak draw. :)
 
@Supervisor42 & @UrbanHunter

Now you got me thinking if my wire may be inadequate. :(
I have (3) 100Ah batteries connected in parallel. I'll have to confirm but pretty sure I'm using 2-gauge wire between them. Each cable is about 1 foot.
From the last battery, I'm running 2-gauge wire to the inverter. Distance is a foot or two.

Is that heavy enough? I'm thinking of other 12v systems (e.g. vehicles) that have very high CCA's but don't use wire that are super thick.
If you only have 2 or 3 foot of wire then 2 gage is fine. The size of wire is impacted greatly be the length, much more so than many people realize. Checking for heat at the end of a long hard run will answer your question. Cables generally warm up a little, less than 7 degrees if everything is properly sized. My personal general rule of thumb is that if you can hold your hand on it at max power and draw after an hour of run time then your fine. Most people can hold an item at 120f for a minute or so but they know it's hot at 130f most people tent to let go QUICK! Personally I tend to oversize wire just because it's cheap insurance against problems. Plus things generally work better when they run cool versus hot.

Just my redneck backyard way those with more knowledge may not agree. Hopefully @Supervisor42 will chime in.
 
Thanks guys.
I just got an e-mail from Weize. They're having a somewhat decent sale.
At a glance, the solar panels look like a decent price.
For the LiFePO4 batteries, check Amazon first. Their "sale" price isn't as good as what I've been buying on Amazon. Their "sale" price of $269 is $50 more than I've been paying.
 
@zoomzoom I am running 4 strings of 4 100AH 12 Volt all parrallel (a 12 volt system), I figured I might actually try to get 4000 watts out of the system in a SHTF event so I went with 00 cables, my cable runs are 3 feet (after combining at the buss bar). Most of the time I am drawing less than 100 amps or about 1200 watts. I used a voltage drop calculator like this to get a feel for how much I am losing in the wiring, Voltage Drop Calculator

FYI I am a big fan of @Biggkidd 's knowledge in DC electrical systems, and I agree that using the heaviest wire you can afford is always a good investment.
 
My wiring was originally for a 5kw 12 volt system and I still went way overkill with Quad cables and they are the size you see on road tractors or my D4d. My longest run is no more than 5 feet and IIRC less than 4 maybe 42 inches or so. It's been a lot of years since I made those cables... Even used copper water pipe for the ends. lol Speaking of which I've made a lot of buss bars out of copper pipe over the years too.
 
I'm seriously starting to think I should look in to wind power. Three seasons a year we have a fair bit of wind. Generally it gets on my nerves and does nothing useful just stops me from working on things but if it was making me some power then it wouldn't be so bad. Today it gusting up in the 20's to the 40's from the way things are acting.
 
I'm seriously starting to think I should look in to wind power. Three seasons a year we have a fair bit of wind. Generally it gets on my nerves and does nothing useful just stops me from working on things but if it was making me some power then it wouldn't be so bad. Today it gusting up in the 20's to the 40's from the way things are acting.
I’ve done a lot of reading/watching about wind power. Almost everybody that bought one regrets it because the marketing materials are based on best case scenario, and reality is the opposite. At our next house I plan on installing an anemometer and logging a full year of data before deciding which, if any, wind turbine to spend money on.

For those that don’t know, the formula for power output from a wind turbine has 1 real variable (after the thing is installed), wind velocity, which is cubed. which means energy goes up very quickly with wind speed. If 10mph=100W, then 15mph=338W and 20mph=800W. When the marketing dept gets involved, they’ll advertise output at maximum wind speed. Take the same wind speeds, you buy what you think is an 800W turbine, but typically only have 10mph wind, so you only get 100W and realize it was a waste of money.
 
I’ve done a lot of reading/watching about wind power. Almost everybody that bought one regrets it because the marketing materials are based on best case scenario, and reality is the opposite. At our next house I plan on installing an anemometer and logging a full year of data before deciding which, if any, wind turbine to spend money on.

For those that don’t know, the formula for power output from a wind turbine has 1 real variable (after the thing is installed), wind velocity, which is cubed. which means energy goes up very quickly with wind speed. If 10mph=100W, then 15mph=338W and 20mph=800W. When the marketing dept gets involved, they’ll advertise output at maximum wind speed. Take the same wind speeds, you buy what you think is an 800W turbine, but typically only have 10mph wind, so you only get 100W and realize it was a waste of money.
100% TRUTH

Yes wind would be supplemental power when our solar isn't performing. Here an anemometer would tell us plenty but I already know we get lots of winds over 20 and up through 45 during 3 seasons and descent wind during summer in the early mornings and later in the evenings when the suns not shining.. Hill country living is a bit different from anywhere else I've ever lived.
 
New inverter is on hold for the moment, went in a slightly different direction for the time being.

Sometime in the next thirty or so days I should no longer have battery woes! I have 32) 280 AH 3.2 volt cells coming. This an entire battery bank replacement. Taking out 650ish AH of old OLD AGM type cells and replacing them with 580 AH of NEW LifePO4 cells. These should out last me by a few years. They have a 8000 cycle lifespan, which is pretty much 22 years at once a day charging. My excysting bank had a usable 165 AH of storage roughly using the top 25-30%, the new cells will essentially double that using the middle 60% of their capacity which will give me about 335AH of usable power. The downside is the new cells need to be in a moderately controlled climate. So I've got that little (HUGE) technical difficulty to overcome. I'm thinking maybe dig a tiny basement under the power building by going right through the floor. Anyone else have any ideas? I could move them inside the house but I'd really rather not for a number of reasons. The main one being serious lack of space and the fire danger. Another option is to simply put them in an insulated box with thermostat controlled heaters. But that's not going to help any with summers heat plus it uses valuable power to run the heat...
 
The basement idea sounds workable from moderating the climate some. No idea about the physical nature of doing it at your location
 
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Yeah the most work is usually the best option! In this case the building is only 6x8 feet. So it's likely in order to keep the building supported the "basement" could probably only go 4x6 feet which would be problematic. The 3500 pounds of batteries sitting at the rear of the building also make for a problem not even mentioning the buried cabling going to the house.

Far as hand digging this ground goes that will be a job X 3. Red clay with plenty of rock.

I need to study on this some. If I can move some of the equipment around and free up say two feet of wiring / cabling to the house then I could conceivably lift the building 18 inches or so IF the floor can handle the weight unsupported is a MAJOR question.
Of course there is another option I could just go ahead and disconnect everything and run the generator nonstop for a week or so. Then I could conceivably just empty the building and move it dig and build the basement and put the building back.

Suddenly I'm thinking the last option may well be the best option. What do you guys think? Of course it's also the most expensive option of an already expensive project with a very limited budget...

I do really like the idea of the batteries and power equipment all being underground. Nice cool constant temps should be perfect to extend the life of the equipment. I wonder if or how much that would protect against a solar flare or EMP type pulse?

Hmmm Just had another insane thought. Maybe just sink an ICB tote or even two one on top of the other under the building and fill them with water pour concrete around them and then pump the water out after it sets up. It would be kind of small but it would surely stop ground water from being an issue.

Thoughts?
 

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