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They usually do just after the Warm-up Starts...!!! They know nothing about the Following Freeze coming early next Tuesday AM...!! I will do everything in Me Power to keep them Safe but it's All GOD's Will...!
 
I planted 2---100 foot rows of white potatoes today.
Put down bone meal, & dusted the potatoes chips/eyes with diatomaceous earth.
I have 50 pounds of each, so I should not run out this season, the DE will keep the fire ants & grubs off the chips until the plant has a good root system. It is a new garden plot, has not been planted in at least fifty years, so a little sweeter for the soil is in order.
 
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LadyLocust said:
Seeded a bunch more (inside). Do you know how difficult it is not to plant a full tray of everything or plant all the seeds in the pack !? The control I’m exhibiting is astounding. Y’all should be impressed. 😂
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I know it.

The Princess asks " But where will you grow it?"

Ben
 
All this talk of seeds and not planting the full packet is so hard to maintain, also I now keep a roll of scotch tape above my potting area to seal up the seed packets after I plant just a pinch of seeds. If I don't seal them back up they find a way of falling over and just making a mess. I am finding that starting a pinch of seeds in 1 starter cup and then splitting them up allows me to have a wide variety of stuff going in different stages, while minimizing my foot print. Currently, I plant a starter cup, 3 weeks later I have to replant into multiple cups (continue growing indoors), then a few weeks later I move them to the raised beds where they get big enough to harvest. The big exception to this are root crops and onions, they get directly planted into their beds.

Because of my limited space and the constant battle with squash bugs in the past I have gotten into the habit of planting 2 starter cup with about 3-4 plants about 6 weeks apart. I have 3 places outside where I can plant them, so I will plant one area and then wait a month and plant another area, usually I get a few harvests before the squash bugs or vine borers arrive. Then I pull the plants clean the space and amend the soil and wait a couple of weeks before planting new plants that have been growing indoors. I only need a few squash each week so I really don't need a lot of plants. Last year I was able to keep harvesting into late fall. Last year I was able to grow a couple plants in a covered raised bed but the watering was wrong for the plant's needs. Now that I have a working irrigation system in the greenhouse I may try to grow a plant in there this fall.

This week we are seeing temps reach 70sF, which means that the raised beds are seeing 95+ (if I don't open them), next week they are predicting temps to drop with lows going back down to the 30s, really hard on young plants.

This weekend I plan to did up the space for my tomatoes, I plan to install 2" PVC about a foot down below where they will grow (I will add watering vents where each plant should be via circular saw). The goal is to be able to bottom water and feed the plants and avoid the issues with water on the leaves. It does mean that I will have to make some changes to my irrigation system.

This is truly an exciting time of the year, so many plans to make and execute. I have to keep reminding myself that it's MARCH!
But Hey, I have been able to resist jumping the gun as badly as some years in the past!
 
Snowman said:
They usually do just after the Warm-up Starts...!!! They know nothing about the Following Freeze coming early next Tuesday AM...!! I will do everything in Me Power to keep them Safe but it's All GOD's Will...!
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My blue berries are load with tiny berries, hope they make it this year.
 
UrbanHunter said:
All this talk of seeds and not planting the full packet is so hard to maintain, also I now keep a roll of scotch tape above my potting area to seal up the seed packets after I plant just a pinch of seeds. If I don't seal them back up they find a way of falling over and just making a mess. I am finding that starting a pinch of seeds in 1 starter cup and then splitting them up allows me to have a wide variety of stuff going in different stages, while minimizing my foot print. Currently, I plant a starter cup, 3 weeks later I have to replant into multiple cups (continue growing indoors), then a few weeks later I move them to the raised beds where they get big enough to harvest. The big exception to this are root crops and onions, they get directly planted into their beds.

Because of my limited space and the constant battle with squash bugs in the past I have gotten into the habit of planting 2 starter cup with about 3-4 plants about 6 weeks apart. I have 3 places outside where I can plant them, so I will plant one area and then wait a month and plant another area, usually I get a few harvests before the squash bugs or vine borers arrive. Then I pull the plants clean the space and amend the soil and wait a couple of weeks before planting new plants that have been growing indoors. I only need a few squash each week so I really don't need a lot of plants. Last year I was able to keep harvesting into late fall. Last year I was able to grow a couple plants in a covered raised bed but the watering was wrong for the plant's needs. Now that I have a working irrigation system in the greenhouse I may try to grow a plant in there this fall.

This week we are seeing temps reach 70sF, which means that the raised beds are seeing 95+ (if I don't open them), next week they are predicting temps to drop with lows going back down to the 30s, really hard on young plants.

This weekend I plan to did up the space for my tomatoes, I plan to install 2" PVC about a foot down below where they will grow (I will add watering vents where each plant should be via circular saw). The goal is to be able to bottom water and feed the plants and avoid the issues with water on the leaves. It does mean that I will have to make some changes to my irrigation system.

This is truly an exciting time of the year, so many plans to make and execute. I have to keep reminding myself that it's MARCH!
But Hey, I have been able to resist jumping the gun as badly as some years in the past!
Click to expand...
Have You tried any Soaker Hoses...?!?

https://www.bobvila.com/articles/best-soaker-hose/

1710425350037.png


"
When it comes to plants, two things are essential: sunlight and water. Whether you have a raised vegetable garden or a mixed border of trees, shrubs, and perennials, everything benefits from a regular drink of water during the hot, dry months. Once the July heat rolls in, weekly rainfall is about as likely as a snowstorm in the middle of August. That’s when a soaker hose can make a big difference. A soaker hose can reduce the pressure of keeping the garden alive and well by giving users the option to water their plants via a “set it and forget it” watering system.

That said, not all garden soaker hoses are equal when it comes to watering gardens and landscape beds. Some emit irregular rivulets of water, while others cannot withstand intense water pressure and end up bursting. We noticed manufacturers of dozens of soaker hoses—both expensive and budget-friendly—were making claims that their hoses were the best options around, so we decided to put them to the test.
"
 
Fedco order arrived today...root stock and scion look great.Waiting on one more package to arrived before i dive chin deep into grafting for the year.Its going to be a bunch compared to what i done in past and will have to pay close attention so i dont get confused on what i am doing and make things work out correctly. I sure dont want to waste scion i bought..hate to run out of root stock and limbs on trees to graft and have stuff left over.If i have left overs..and i will..it better be scion i grew and harvested and not spent money on.
 
What i have to work with this year.

46 scion i collected that can do 2 grafts per scion of various types
6 scion from skillcult can do 2 grafts per scion
5 scion from fedco can do 2 grafts per scion

20 root stock and 5 sapling whips to graft first and then graft on trees making them even more like skillcults frakentree.

I may need to go on and order more root stock now...lol..dont know if i will. this will be a bunch to do and deal with as is.

When i placed my early order for root stock as theres a deadline to order i had not planned on being able to get any scion from skillcult or rather scion being in my price range to buy.
 
elkhound said:
What i have to work with this year.

46 scion i collected that can do 2 grafts per scion of various types
6 scion from skillcult can do 2 grafts per scion
5 scion from fedco can do 2 grafts per scion

20 root stock and 5 sapling whips to graft first and then graft on trees making them even more like skillcults frakentree.

I may need to go on and order more root stock now...lol..dont know if i will. this will be a bunch to do and deal with as is.

When i placed my early order for root stock as theres a deadline to order i had not planned on being able to get any scion from skillcult or rather scion being in my price range to buy.
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I will not even think about getting any Skillcult's scions until I have more experience with successful grafts. All of my seedless grape vines are cloned from a few cuttings from him.

Ben
 
Amish Heart said:
I get that. And try telling 2 young uns they didn't have to do that. There must be 35 cucumber plants that need uppotting. Maybe the neighbor needs some.
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I planted 1 cuke 😂 Last year I got over 100 cukes from 1 plant. I was giving them to everyone I know. If you get that many, it will be roughly 3500 cucumbers 🥒😳

@UrbanHunter not that you need more to do but onions 🧅 love to be watered from below also.
 
Neb said:
I will not even think about getting any Skillcult's scions until I have more experience with successful grafts. All of my seedless grape vines are cloned from a few cuttings from him.

Ben
Click to expand...
He had some scion under $10.Cherry crush and Pink lemonade was $7.50.Thats about as cheap as any scion you can buy.Fedco scion i order was $6 each. So its very comparable now on some items.Now other items auctioned off forget it...it brings the money..limited availability,people wanting the new genetics and theres guys out there just wanting to buy from him because of getting money to him for funds for new place he is getting in next year or so.

You will get to point you get grafts to work out..just keep grafting and watching stuff and try and go to a grafting class in your area.Theres classes being advertised in my area now.
 
Amish Heart said:
Well, I do use extra cucumbers for animal feed. Even Betz the horse loves them. And tomatoes. How on earth did you get that many cucumbers from one plant, Lady L? You must have emerald thumbs.
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It was a record for sure. We ate so many, made pickles and gave away more than I could keep track of. I had one friend who limited me: I couldn’t give her more than 6 a week 😂. Spoiled sport!
The planet had afternoon shade from the house. That’s the only difference from previous years.
 
LadyLocust said:
I planted 1 cuke 😂 Last year I got over 100 cukes from 1 plant. I was giving them to everyone I know. If you get that many, it will be roughly 3500 cucumbers 🥒😳

@UrbanHunter not that you need more to do but onions 🧅 love to be watered from below also.
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Wow! I plant a couple of packages of seeds and maybe get 100 cucumbers total each summer. Is it your soil?
 
My Hoss Okra seeds came in today, while I was at a mushroom growing class.
Has anyone grown Jambalaya (50 days) or Cowhorn (55 days) or Jing Orange Okra (60 days)?
I going to try them this year, I can plant them close because I am not saving seeds this year.
I do not need to save seeds, I have enough to grow for three years, without saving.
 
Weedygarden said:
Wow! I plant a couple of packages of seeds and maybe get 100 cucumbers total each summer. Is it your soil?
Click to expand...
We brought some good mountain soil when we moved here but nothing since and no fertilizer. I do rotate crops (not really crops but you know what I mean right?)
 
joel said:
My Hoss Okra seeds came in today, while I was at a mushroom growing class.
Has anyone grown Jambalaya (50 days) or Cowhorn (55 days) or Jing Orange Okra (60 days)?
I going to try them this year, I can plant them close because I am not saving seeds this year.
I do not need to save seeds, I have enough to grow for three years, without saving.
Click to expand...
I’ve grown cowhorn peppers but not okra.
 
Weedygarden said:
Anyone ever plant rhubarb from seed? I have some seeds that I have soaking now, because that is recommended. I do have some rhubarb in the garden, but I want to plant more.
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Yeah, but it’s been ages. Can’t remember what I did or if it worked. I know I do have rhubarb. You can split the rhizomes too.
 
Cowhorn Okra is an heirloom, open-pollinated variety known for it's long, tender pods. This okra variety dates back to the 1900s and produces pods with spines or ridges. While other varieties may become tough when pods get long, this variety will maintain tenderness at 10" long. Pods are at optimal tenderness when harvested about 6" long. This is a great variety for pickling in larger jars. It is also excellent when stewed or used for making okra and tomatoes over rice. Cowhorn Okra pods will tend to curl at the ends, hence the name "cow horn."

Cowhorn Okra may be direct-seeded or transplanted. In early spring, we recommend transplanting to get a jump start on the growing season. Okra prefers warmer temperatures for seed to germinate. By transplanting, you can have plants in the ground before the soil temperature warms enough to direct seed. We recommend starting transplants 4-5 weeks before the desired outdoor planting date. Okra transplants grow great in our heavy-duty seed starting trays, where they develop a solid root ball with roots that are trained to grow downward. Plants are ready to go in the ground when they can be easily pulled from the cells in the seed starting tray.
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https://growhoss.com/products/cowhorn-okra?variant=47689333342518
 
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