HELP! Any Mechanics Around?

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Meerkat said:
Hubby said I misundrstood but he understood what your saying,and thanks for encouragement.
Click to expand...
I'll walk him thru setting it up.
I'm gonna hafta fire up the PC though.
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Too much typing to do on the tablet.gaah
 
Edit: the following assumes that the front cover, or oil pump, have not been removed and reinstalled.
@Mr.Meer: The first order of business is to verify 0 degrees top dead center on cylinder #1.
Using a long screwdriver thru the sparkplug hole, you can feel the #1 piston come up to the top as you rotate the crank clockwise with a wrench.
When it is all the way at the very top, the mark on the front pulley should align with the 0 on the timing scale.
If there is no mark on the pulley, we will have to make one.

Next we will rotate the crank clockwise until the distributor rotor is pointing at the #4 sparkplug wire terminal in the distributor cap.
If the cam is in the right time, the exhaust valve will on #1 will just finish closing (moving upward) as we rotate the mark on the pulley up to the 0 on the timing scale. Immediately the intake valve will begin to open if we keep turning the crank past 0.
This period at the end of the exhaust stroke and the beginning of intake is called "overlap".
If the cam chain is even one tooth off, one of the valves will be moving when it passes 0.
When you get the cam in time, don't try to start it until you adjust the valves.
When a head comes back from from being worked the valves are always too tight (meaning they can't close completely)
We'll adjust the valves in the next post.
 
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Supervisor42 said:
@Mr.Meer: The first order of business is to verify 0 degrees top dead center on cylinder #1.
Using a long screwdriver thru the sparkplug hole, you can feel the piston come up to the top as you rotate the crank with a wrench.
When it is all the way at the very top, the mark on the front pulley should align with the 0 on the timing scale.
If there is no mark on the pulley, we will have to make one.

Next we will rotate the crank until the distributor rotor is pointing at the #4 sparkplug wire terminal in the distributor cap.
If the cam is in the right time, the exhaust valve will on #1 will just finish closing (moving upward) as we rotate the mark on the pulley up to the 0 on the timing scale. Immediately the intake valve will begin to open if we keep turning the crank past 0.
This period at the end of the exhaust stroke and the beginning of intake is called "overlap".
If the cam is even one tooth off, one of the valves will be moving when it passes 0.
When you get the cam in time, don't try to start it until you adjust the valves.
When a head comes back from from being worked the valves are always too tight (meaning they can't close completely)
We'll adjust the valves in the next post.
Click to expand...


Thank you SuperV your so knid to help.
But Hubby is going to take one day from truck to help me get some things done around here he has been putting off. Like chickn pen cleaning, food preserving, getting things ready to put in van in case of forest fires since we are now in a drought and no rain expected for seceral days. No fun packing up or loading in a smoke filled environment. Did that last tiem we had fires all around us. Also last time we palyed in softball leaque in 1990, smoke everywhere!Itwas precided by a 100 year flood.gaahwejust moved onto property and living in tents,had tent:doghouse:or kitchen,tent for bedroom and tent for stoage.Lightening striking right at our heads on the ground and winds laid tent on your face while sleeping.
 
If you still need a timing light - Around here, most of the auto parts stores loan tools out for free. Might be worth a call to see if they have this available.
 
Supervisor42 said:
@Mr.Meer: The first order of business is to verify 0 degrees top dead center on cylinder #1.
Using a long screwdriver thru the sparkplug hole, you can feel the piston come up to the top as you rotate the crank clockwise with a wrench.
When it is all the way at the very top, the mark on the front pulley should align with the 0 on the timing scale.
If there is no mark on the pulley, we will have to make one.

Next we will rotate the crank clockwise until the distributor rotor is pointing at the #4 sparkplug wire terminal in the distributor cap.
If the cam is in the right time, the exhaust valve will on #1 will just finish closing (moving upward) as we rotate the mark on the pulley up to the 0 on the timing scale. Immediately the intake valve will begin to open if we keep turning the crank past 0.
This period at the end of the exhaust stroke and the beginning of intake is called "overlap".
If the cam is even one tooth off, one of the valves will be moving when it passes 0.
When you get the cam in time, don't try to start it until you adjust the valves.
When a head comes back from from being worked the valves are always too tight (meaning they can't close completely)
We'll adjust the valves in the next post.
Click to expand...
The best way to adjust the valve lash is not the easy way.
When we rotated the engine to put #1 cylinder in overlap, it's twin #4 has just fired the sparkplug and the cylinder is at max pressure.
This is when valve clearance is most important.
Each cylinder has a twin that is doing the opposite thing that it is.
1 & 4 are twins and 2 & 3 are twins.
With #1 at overlap, adjust the valves on #4 with a .014" feeler gauge (cold) and lock the jamnuts.
Rotating the crank clockwise a half turn and you should see #3 exhaust valve closing.
When it gets closed, adjust the valves on it's twin #2.
Rotate the crank a half turn clockwise and you'll see the exhaust valve closing on #4.
When it gets closed, adjust the valves on it's twin #1.
Rotate the crank a half turn clockwise and you'll see the exhaust valve closing on #2.
When it gets closed, adjust the valves on it's twin #3.

After the engine has been run to operating temperature and the valves have had time to seat, you can check them at the "hot" setting which is the same procedure, but with a .012" feeler gauge.
 
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Meerkat said:
Hubby is at it again, he is now taking off valve cover,will come back and read the direcions afain then hope he gets it started.
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He's got a lot of work to do. If he has questions, have him post them.
 
zoomzoom said:
If he has a beer at every break, he'll feel much better. ;)
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Funny you say that I was just eyeing a ice cold mug in the freezer 5 minutes ago. And yes he may have one too. What the heck why wait to celebrate.
 
@Supervisor42 I have the valve cover off and torn down. Checked at tdc number 1 piston to see where rotor button was pointing and looks like #4 plug but it is hard to tell for sure because that rotor button is round instead of oblong like most rotor buttons are. Is pointer on it metal? Also no sleep last night , wife had bad night. I had marked the cam gear and chain before taking it apart and its totally in line.
 
Meerkat said:
@Supervisor42 I have the valve cover off and torn down. Checked at tdc number 1 piston to see where rotor button was pointing and looks like #4 plug but it is hard to tell for sure because that rotor button is round instead of oblong like most rotor buttons are. Is pointer on it metal? Also no sleep last night , wife had bad night. I had marked the cam gear and chain before taking it apart and its totally in line.
Click to expand...
The metal pointer on the rotor should be pointing at the #4 terminal in the distributor cap just as the exhaust valve on #1 closes and the crank pulley timing mark passes the "0" on the ignition timing tab.
This only happens every 2 rounds as the crank turns.
If the cam is in time, I'd bet money all the valves are too tight. Adjust valves.
BTW, the valve adjustment procedure I listed is much easier to do if the spark plugs are out.
Edit: When the head is removed, the chain falls away from the sprocket on the crank losing it's time.
Marking the chain and cam sprocket becomes meaningless.
 
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Supervisor42 said:
The metal pointer on the rotor should be pointing at the #4 terminal in the distributor cap just as the exhaust valve on #1 closes and the crank pulley timing mark passes the "0" on the ignition timing tab.
This only happens every 2 rounds as the crank turns.
If the cam is in time, I'd bet money all the valves are too tight. Adjust valves.
BTW, the valve adjustment procedure I listed is much easier to do if the spark plugs are out.
Click to expand...
metal


Ok, also the crank pulley timing mark not there either. The gauge that tells you what the reading is is there. Im gonna have to get a filler gauge to do valves too. I wigggled the arms on valves and they seem loose But will still set them just gonna take awhile after getting some rest. Thanks again.
 
It is really hot out there now SuperV. Truck is in shade 'haha shade tree mechanic' but its still very hot. Thsi is me Meer again now.

Hubby said he marked the gear chain and cam and made sure i was lined up.So he will go back and bring top dead center to #1 and see where rotor is pointing now that you told him that metal on rotoe is the pointer.filler gauge misplaced have to get another.
 
Meerkat said:
Ok, also the crank pulley timing mark not there either. The gauge that tells you what the reading is is there.
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I think I mentioned that.
Guess how useful a timing light is with no mark on the pulley?
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I have to ask, Is it running ?
 
Thanks SuperV for bringing this up, I looked everywhere and never could find it.:huh:

Right now he is taking a break from the truck. My old van is getting a charge, plus I like to drive it around to make sure the old parts get lubed and moved. Its the only way qe have to go now but thats ok I guess since we can't go anywhere anyway.:eyeballs::fun fun:
I likedthe little happy smilies but putting them up now is not realistic, well sometimes maybe..
 
Meerkat said:
Thanks SuperV for bringing this up, I looked everywhere and never could find it.:huh:

Right now he is taking a break from the truck. My old van is getting a charge, plus I like to drive it around to make sure the old parts get lubed and moved. Its the only way qe have to go now but thats ok I guess since we can't go anywhere anyway.:eyeballs::fun fun:
I likedthe little happy smilies but putting them up now is not realistic, well sometimes maybe..
Click to expand...


What we have here is failure to communicate! I'm in there washing dishes and hubby who is not suppose to comment unless I ask hin to. I don't go to his Yaght club site where he ak quations about the Mayflower jon boat. .

Any way glad it is found.
 
I have a car & a van that need some work done, but we are backed up with Spring planting & strating Fall clean up, before it gets to hot.
 
joel said:
I have a car & a van that need some work done, but we are backed up with Spring planting & strating Fall clean up, before it gets to hot.
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Well Joel guess your plates full or will be.
Hubby has now decided its the WHOLE head, well that makes my head hurt!:ghostly:

So Junk truck wants more money and credit card we said not useing is about to get slammed.
He said its aluminum and i could have busted when it got so hot.Head shop wanted a couple 1000 kept addign on things so we said no thanks.
I think he is getting stir crazy so truck is looking like it needs attention 'again'.
 
What say yall? Don't worry about being blunt we can take it.
 
Got $110.00 off on points .So it one the way and the beat down goes on,lol.Reminds me o=f a song guess which one?
 
Meerkat said:
Well Joel guess your plates full or will be.
Hubby has now decided its the WHOLE head, well that makes my head hurt!:ghostly:

So Junk truck wants more money and credit card we said not useing is about to get slammed.
He said its aluminum and i could have busted when it got so hot.Head shop wanted a couple 1000 kept addign on things so we said no thanks.
I think he is getting stir crazy so truck is looking like it needs attention 'again'.
Click to expand...
If the head is cracked (always between the valve seats) it will run but will push coolant out of the cooling system or 'consume' coolant with steam in the exhaust as it runs.
Ignore the timing marks on the cam sprocket and chain and put it in time using my method before scrapping a good reworked head with new valves.
If the machine shop worked it, (ie: it came back with a shiny head gasket surface) then it isn't cracked.
 
Supervisor42 said:
If the head is cracked (always between the valve seats) it will run but will push coolant out of the cooling system or 'consume' coolant with steam in the exhaust as it runs.
Ignore the timing marks on the cam sprocket and chain and put it in time using my method before scrapping a good reworked head with new valves.
If the machine shop worked it, (ie: it came back with a shiny head gasket surface) then it isn't cracked.
Click to expand...

We didn't use machine SuperV. He wanted us to bring in head,block and just kept going up so hea didn't get done.It cost more than the truck boat and van put together is worth! If this keeps up it will be a totally new truck!
 
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