Cast Iron
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Good to know, all sorts of applications besides cast iron cookware. Thanks! I was curious myself but had no time to look into it.
I don't have any of the old, quality cast iron. The only thing I have is a Lodge brand skillet. Those things come pre-seasoned and feel kind of "bumpy". I can't imagine that things wouldn't stick to that mess, so I didn't give it a chance.
I figured this Lodge stuff is cheap enough, so I wouldn't mind if I ruined it.
So I went after my new skillet with a power sander. One of those oscillating tools with a triangular sander attachment. I got the inside of the skillet glass smooth (didn't worry about the outside). I then seasoned the skillet very carefully using grapeseed oil. That took all day, as I kept repeating the process to try and get a good initial seasoning.
It came out great! Nothing sticks to that baby, and everything cooks well. Not bad for a piece of cheap Lodge cast iron. I wanted to try something inexpensive and common first, to see if I liked cooking on cast iron. I do. Cleanup is a little more tedious than with other cookware, but not bad.
The way I clean if it's grungy - right or wrong - is I first reheat the skillet to about 300 surface temp on a stove burner (I have an infrared thermometer). Then I get the water from the faucet as hot as I can (about 140 I think it's set to). Then the skillet gets a little bit of that hot faucet water in it, which immediately boils. I then use a plastic scraper to get what's left off. I dry it with a lint-free cloth. Back on the stove burner to be reheated to 300 to cook off any remaining moisture. I then add a bit of oil and wipe it all down with a different lint-free cloth. If things look perfect, I'm done. If not, I add a tad more oil (the skillet is still very hot) and some course ground Kosher salt. This does not dissolve in the oil. Then out comes another lint-free cloth to do a scouring with that salt. That salt always takes ever last thing off the skillet (except the seasoning). One final wipe down with a lint-free cloth to get all the salt out and I'm done. I let it cool and put it away. I wash the lint-free clothes by hand with liquid dish soap, let them dry, and put them away for next time.
Who knows if what I did for that initial sanding and seasoning was "right". Or if my cleaning technique is "normal". But they seem to work for me and my cheap Lodge cast iron. I will probably buy a few more pieces of cast iron in the future. I doubt that I will fully convert to it for all cooking though. There's something very convenient about a quick over easy egg on a good non-stick pan. Cleanup for that takes seconds. I use the cast iron for larger dinners where I will be cooking for a longer time.
I figured this Lodge stuff is cheap enough, so I wouldn't mind if I ruined it.
So I went after my new skillet with a power sander. One of those oscillating tools with a triangular sander attachment. I got the inside of the skillet glass smooth (didn't worry about the outside). I then seasoned the skillet very carefully using grapeseed oil. That took all day, as I kept repeating the process to try and get a good initial seasoning.
It came out great! Nothing sticks to that baby, and everything cooks well. Not bad for a piece of cheap Lodge cast iron. I wanted to try something inexpensive and common first, to see if I liked cooking on cast iron. I do. Cleanup is a little more tedious than with other cookware, but not bad.
The way I clean if it's grungy - right or wrong - is I first reheat the skillet to about 300 surface temp on a stove burner (I have an infrared thermometer). Then I get the water from the faucet as hot as I can (about 140 I think it's set to). Then the skillet gets a little bit of that hot faucet water in it, which immediately boils. I then use a plastic scraper to get what's left off. I dry it with a lint-free cloth. Back on the stove burner to be reheated to 300 to cook off any remaining moisture. I then add a bit of oil and wipe it all down with a different lint-free cloth. If things look perfect, I'm done. If not, I add a tad more oil (the skillet is still very hot) and some course ground Kosher salt. This does not dissolve in the oil. Then out comes another lint-free cloth to do a scouring with that salt. That salt always takes ever last thing off the skillet (except the seasoning). One final wipe down with a lint-free cloth to get all the salt out and I'm done. I let it cool and put it away. I wash the lint-free clothes by hand with liquid dish soap, let them dry, and put them away for next time.
Who knows if what I did for that initial sanding and seasoning was "right". Or if my cleaning technique is "normal". But they seem to work for me and my cheap Lodge cast iron. I will probably buy a few more pieces of cast iron in the future. I doubt that I will fully convert to it for all cooking though. There's something very convenient about a quick over easy egg on a good non-stick pan. Cleanup for that takes seconds. I use the cast iron for larger dinners where I will be cooking for a longer time.
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Ha! I use an infrared also. It comes in very handy when I want to sear meat. I get my iron skillets to about 440 degrees, it take about 50 seconds to produce a good sear on roomtemp burgers or chops. Takes about 1:30-40 on something thicker like a steak, plus I like the temp a bit higher, close to 500 degrees.
It took out a lot of the uncertainty when I was learning to cook and even now when tackling new styles of cooking, like asian. Know the exact temp of the bottom of a wok compared to the sides of the wok... is handy information to have.
As far as grinding a skillet surface, don't see why not. I've been considering the same thing for a camp stove I have, except the bottom of the pot is rounded.
Also, all my Lodge cast iron is from when it came perfect from the factory, not like now. In fact I used to drive by the lodge factory in South Pittsburgh TN several times a month, have even purchased from the factory store.
It took out a lot of the uncertainty when I was learning to cook and even now when tackling new styles of cooking, like asian. Know the exact temp of the bottom of a wok compared to the sides of the wok... is handy information to have.
As far as grinding a skillet surface, don't see why not. I've been considering the same thing for a camp stove I have, except the bottom of the pot is rounded.
Also, all my Lodge cast iron is from when it came perfect from the factory, not like now. In fact I used to drive by the lodge factory in South Pittsburgh TN several times a month, have even purchased from the factory store.
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I use my infrared thermometer to know the skillet temp when using various oils. I have a printout of each oils smoke temperature, and I make sure the skillet is below that temp for the oil du jour.
I also use it to check the skillet temp when it's cooling to be put away. That way I know when it's safe to grab the handle.
And I also use it as I mentioned in my previous post, to check when the skillet has been hot enough, for long enough, to have evaporated any residual moisture before I prepare to put it away.
I got this infrared on one of the Amazon Prime Day events. Being a sucker for their sale, I had spent a long time looking for something I needed to buy. Nada. Couldn't find a thing. So as a last minute whim I said, "Why not this infrared thermometer? It's dirt cheap." So I bought it. And it has indeed been very handy. Turned out to be a very good "purchase on a whim". I can't remember what I paid. Definitely less than $15 though.
I also use it to check the skillet temp when it's cooling to be put away. That way I know when it's safe to grab the handle.
And I also use it as I mentioned in my previous post, to check when the skillet has been hot enough, for long enough, to have evaporated any residual moisture before I prepare to put it away.
I got this infrared on one of the Amazon Prime Day events. Being a sucker for their sale, I had spent a long time looking for something I needed to buy. Nada. Couldn't find a thing. So as a last minute whim I said, "Why not this infrared thermometer? It's dirt cheap." So I bought it. And it has indeed been very handy. Turned out to be a very good "purchase on a whim". I can't remember what I paid. Definitely less than $15 though.
You don't really have to grind cast iron. It is very soft, at least my Lodge stuff was. Simple sand paper, especially on a power tool, will smooth it out very quickly. Of course you have to re-season after doing that though. I was able to do the bottom and sides of the skillet with the oscillating tool, but the corners where the sides and bottom meet had to be done by hand. But that went really quick. I was expecting to have to use a lot of elbow grease. Not really. I wrapped the sandpaper around some thin rounded thing - I can't remember what it was at the moment, just some piece of junk I found in the garage - and that allowed me to do the corners quickly. If your corners are really rough (mine weren't), I suppose you could use a Dremel Tool with one of those miniature rounded grinding attachments.
Got mine at an autoparts store. I needed something to help me find an exhaust manifold leak. About $20, don't really remember either. Now I use it in the kitchen almost daily.
Peanut you mentioned Asian food and a wok. Is the wok Cast iron? I bought one years ago and have never used it. Its still in the original box and stored.
@Bacpacker No, not cast. Traditional woks are either pressed from a carbon steel sheet or hammered by hand. The expensive ones are hand-hammered, supposed to be better quality. Don't know this for sure. I got mine in the 90's, it's hand-hammered, didn't really use it until the last year or so.
Now you can buy them with non-stick surfaces. I also have one of these.
Now you can buy them with non-stick surfaces. I also have one of these.
Hmm. The one I have is cast. I need to dig that out and start using it.
I bet those hand hammered ones are nice.
I bet those hand hammered ones are nice.
My hammered wok is 14", big! The one with non-stick is only 9+". I use it more often, especially when I make stir fry for one or two. My big one is almost too big.
Another issue... the largest eye on gas stoves I previously had was 12,000 BTU, standard. The stove I bought last year has one eye that is 17,000 BTU's. It can heat a large wok properly. After all these years I can now use my big wok and cook with it the way it's supposed to be used. Frying in the bottom and cooking/keeping warm on the sides.
The large eye is also great when I use cast iron. I can finally sear a couple of steaks properly. I can easily get a skillet over 500 degrees and keep it there.
Another issue... the largest eye on gas stoves I previously had was 12,000 BTU, standard. The stove I bought last year has one eye that is 17,000 BTU's. It can heat a large wok properly. After all these years I can now use my big wok and cook with it the way it's supposed to be used. Frying in the bottom and cooking/keeping warm on the sides.
The large eye is also great when I use cast iron. I can finally sear a couple of steaks properly. I can easily get a skillet over 500 degrees and keep it there.
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I bought one of these to scrub cast iron if the pan stuff gets stuck. It works well and has never affected the nonstick qualities.
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Yes, the new Lodge cast iron has a bumpy surface. I find that very strange.
I have a laser temp gun but I mostly use it to be sure my lizards have the proper basking temps for belly heat and digestion.
As for cleaning my cast iron, I usually rinse it to remove most of the loose stuff. Then I put water in it and let it boil for a couple minutes. When it cools enough to handle, I let hot water run and scrub it out with a stuff nylon brush. Sometimes I need to give it a quick, light rub with a steel or copper scrubbie pad.
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Same way we clean ours except I've never had to use a metal pad to clean, just a nylon brush and boiling water in the pan.
It's the "new" pre-seasoning. They've been doing it for a few years now and its awful!!
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I like cast iron gear when I am campfire cooking.
I have cast iron for my camping gear that also is part of my INCH kits.
This cook set is made up of a 9 quart dutch oven, 2.5 quart dutch oven, cast fry pan (with removable handle that doubles as a pot/lid lifter handle), welding gloves (essential for working campfires), silicone mats, trivets, tongs, spatula, wood spoons.
Space efficiency is important - so I setup this kit to "nest" to be as compact as possible.
Here are the two dutchovens in action. The 9 is cooking a couple of rabbits in a slow cooked stew, while the 2.5 is making damper bread to go with the stew (after adding some Red Feather butter).
I have cast iron for my camping gear that also is part of my INCH kits.
This cook set is made up of a 9 quart dutch oven, 2.5 quart dutch oven, cast fry pan (with removable handle that doubles as a pot/lid lifter handle), welding gloves (essential for working campfires), silicone mats, trivets, tongs, spatula, wood spoons.
Space efficiency is important - so I setup this kit to "nest" to be as compact as possible.
Here are the two dutchovens in action. The 9 is cooking a couple of rabbits in a slow cooked stew, while the 2.5 is making damper bread to go with the stew (after adding some Red Feather butter).
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That bumply finish is just the cast finish. They used to mill the cooking surface which they no longer do. Hubby used a scotchbrite on the surface of the griddle because it was like that. Same result I'm guessing.
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I love the trivets for the inside bottom of your Dutch ovens. I wish I had some. I generally use stones in place of a trivet.
And, i see you are an experienced campfire cook! One who cooks on campfire coals. I laugh every time I see a photo of someone cooking over campfire flames. I say to myself, "Show me your finished meal, I bet it's burnt!"
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Regarding new cast iron with a "bumpy" surface. Don't worry about it. With proper seasoning, using plenty of oil/lard when cooking, proper cleaning, and proper storage that surface will eventually become smooth as a baby's butt. With continual use, the oils will harden into those bumps and make the surface become smooth. It takes time, patience, and proper use and care.
I picked up one of the smaller style trivet things at the dollar and more store for $2-3 - use it a lot in canning too. (It's probably not the same quality as the one shown, but it's worked for about 6-7 years now.)
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I like the idea of a trivet in my Dutch ovens when I bake. That way, the DO is acting as a true oven which allows heat to circulate on all sides of what ever is being baked. I have seen the results of others who try to bake bread or a cake directly in the bottom of a DO....usually resulting in burning where the bread/pastry touches the cast iron. I always bake my bread/pastry in a separate steel pan that fits inside of the DO. The pan is propped up off the bottom by stones. I'll have to look for trivets. Thanks for the tip.
I'm liking all the info being shared here. I've never even thought about putting a steel pan IN the DO - that's smart! I figured that's why dumplin's were born, so they cook on top of the food rather than in the bottom. Now I have to look for a pan(s) that fit in the DOs.
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I normally will use round layer cake pans. They are sold in a variety of sizes.
Show and tell please. Got photos for non-cooks who have some gear? I bought a lot of gear years ago but I could barely cook in my kitchen at the time. I was just guessing at the time. I know no one who actually cooks meals on coals.
A board for teaching campfire cooking would be useful to many of us.
Links to great books and video's would also be of great help. I bought a couple books way back when but was guessing as to quality.
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I keep looking for a Dutch oven cookbook that doesn't use charcoal. I have 3 Dutch ovens and will start using them this summer. I have a 10" I bought when I was 13-14 years old. I BSR 12" deep oven and a BSR 14" oven. Can't wait.
My very favorite dessert recipe, and oh so easy:
https://www.lodgecastiron.com/recipe/lazy-peach-cobbler
https://www.lodgecastiron.com/recipe/lazy-peach-cobbler
Here is my ignorance showing, but why does it matter what the cook book says? I have plenty recipes that say charcoal and I just use wood embers. Admittedly it does take more finesse because you can't just drop 6 or 10 briquettes on top as the recipe dictates. Instead you use normal wood embers and yes sometimes they need replacing etc. You need to keep a closer eye on things. But the food cooks through none the less, and tastes just the same.
By charcoal do you mean those kingsford briquets? Most real cooking is over "coals", hot embers left after a fire has burned down.
Dutch ovens are designed to use coals from the fire. a few coals under the pot - that's why they have legs - and more on the top (which is why it has a lowered top area). It gets heat from the bottom and top just like an oven. The only other way you could use a dutch oven is in the oven and there are better pots for that.
As far as cleaning goes there are two things that never touch my cast iron; paper and soap.
As far as cleaning goes there are two things that never touch my cast iron; paper and soap.
Dade,
I've seen briquettes used and I have used the glowing embers with mine. Briquettes have to be refreshed more often if you are cooking big dishes but they work fine for biscuits or thin cakes. It all depends on what you're cooking and what you have available. When no fires are allowed you can get away with using briquettes but not a fire to make embers.
I've seen briquettes used and I have used the glowing embers with mine. Briquettes have to be refreshed more often if you are cooking big dishes but they work fine for biscuits or thin cakes. It all depends on what you're cooking and what you have available. When no fires are allowed you can get away with using briquettes but not a fire to make embers.
