HELP! Any Mechanics Around?

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It's been too many years for me but have been following this thread out of interest.
Aren't most engine timings set to go off somewhere around 12° before TDC?
Or are you setting everything to TDC then rotating the distributor to BTDC later?
 
O k Then . Wish me luck and I can unbolt the cam and remove the valve arms and cam sprocket to keep that from happening to valves. Hopefully that hasn't already happened, It doesn't seem like it so far. Thanks
 
zoomzoom said:
It's been too many years for me but have been following this thread out of interest.
Aren't most engine timings set to go off somewhere around 12° before TDC?
Or are you setting everything to TDC then rotating the distributor to BTDC later?
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Yes. At high rpm it is firing the plug 28+° before top dead center.
When cranking it is firing 6-8° before TDC.
Thats why I said the rotor will be pointing "almost" straight at the I4 terminal when we spot the engine at TDC 1&4. The metal tab on the rotor will actually be almost past it at TDC but nowhere near the other terminals.
The distributor (driven by the crank) has not been disturbed and is already in time with the crank.
 
Mr.Meer said:
O k Then . Wish me luck and I can unbolt the cam and remove the valve arms and cam sprocket to keep that from happening to valves. Hopefully that hasn't already happened, It doesn't seem like it so far. Thanks
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You don't have to remove the rocker arms to turn the cam if the pistons are not at the top.
You'll need the rockers to tell you where the cam is and what it is doing.
And don't drop the sprocket bolt or washers down "The Black Hole" gaah
 
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zoomzoom said:
It's been too many years for me but have been following this thread out of interest.
Aren't most engine timings set to go off somewhere around 12° before TDC?
Or are you setting everything to TDC then rotating the distributor to BTDC later?
Click to expand...


You right I think zoomzoom 12 degrees before tdc. As you may know by now following this thread I had a blown head gasket dew to a water pump went out.
So I went to parts store got one put it on and it cranked only to let coolant in oil. So I tore it down and replaced bearings, rings, pistons and head gasket. But seems chain slipped on crank and got out of time. Wouldn't crank afterwards.

Anyway to find out also, 'this' 86 Nissan z24 engine has dual pointers on rotor that fires both number one cylinders at same time. To say the least it's been a nightmare for me since blown head gasket.
 
Supervisor42 said:
You don't have to remove the rocker arms to turn the cam if the pistons are not at the top.
You'll need the rockers to tell you where the cam is and what it is doing.
And don't drop the sprocket bolt or washers down "The Black Hole" gaah
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O k . lol I put towel in to stop anything from falling in. I mentioned removing those because you scared me about vales hitting pistons and damage.

Got ya.:thumbs:
 
Mr.Meer said:
I mentioned removing those because you scared me about vales hitting pistons and damage.
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Will need someone else to chime in but as I recall:
Shortly after mfgrs went from timing chain to belt, they also changed their heads so if the belt broke, the valves won't hit the pistons, damaging both. I found this out when the timing belt broke on my '85 Honda Accord.

Not going back through your pics but IIRC, your engine still has the chain. Can't say whether your head config is such that piston and valves never meet. I'd think if you were cranking it with the timing way off, you would hear all kinds of racket if valves were hitting pistons.
 
zoomzoom said:
Will need someone else to chime in but as I recall:
Shortly after mfgrs went from timing chain to belt, they also changed their heads so if the belt broke, the valves won't hit the pistons, damaging both. I found this out when the timing belt broke on my '85 Honda Accord.

Not going back through your pics but IIRC, your engine still has the chain. Can't say whether your head config is such that piston and valves never meet. I'd think if you were cranking it with the timing way off, you would hear all kinds of racket if valves were hitting pistons.
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No sounds when turning over.
 
Mr.Meer said:
You right I think zoomzoom 12 degrees before tdc. As you may know by now following this thread I had a blown head gasket dew to a water pump went out.
So I went to parts store got one put it on and it cranked only to let coolant in oil. So I tore it down and replaced bearings, rings, pistons and head gasket. But seems chain slipped on crank and got out of time. Wouldn't crank afterwards.

Anyway to find out also, 'this' 86 Nissan z24 engine has dual pointers on rotor that fires both number one cylinders at same time. To say the least it's been a nightmare for me since blown head gasket.
Click to expand...


Umhumm, you mean nightmare for '"US " don't you?:peace:,one mans obsession is a womans nightmare.
I'm beginnig to wonder how that trucks gonna taste since our crops are being abandoned except for me and I can no longer see since Sep.26th. that good.And keep gettin into fight with those damn fruit trees with briars size of needles.o_O
 
Meerkat said:
I'm beginnig to wonder how that trucks gonna taste since our crops are being abandoned
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Maybe this is the subject for a new thread but:
Use the seat cushions for your cake. Use axle grease for your frosting. If it's a birthday cake, use spark plugs for candles.
The tires taste like chicken but are a little tough. I found it best to deep fry them in engine oil.
I have more recipes but don't want to sidetrack this thread anymore. ;)
 
Just for clarity, step by step:
1. Turn crank until distributor rotor tab is pointing at I4 and pulley mark aligns with 0° on the timing tab.
2. Turn the crank counter-clockwise so the pulley mark is about 1" before the timing tab.
3. Remove the cam sprocket and rotate the cam clockwise until the #1 exhaust valve just finished closing.
4. Turn the crank clockwise so the pulley mark goes back where it was in step #1.
5. Install the cam sprocket.
6. Rotate the crank clockwise 2 rounds and verify the cam timing by watching the valve movements as the pulley mark approaches 0° and goes past it. This is in post #180.
 
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Meerkat said:
Umhumm, you mean nightmare for '"US " don't you?:peace:,one mans obsession is a womans nightmare.
I'm beginnig to wonder how that trucks gonna taste since our crops are being abandoned except for me and I can no longer see since Sep.26th. that good.And keep gettin into fight with those damn fruit trees with briars size of needles.o_O
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Not being able to see the plants is why I figured I would be able to get away with it for a little bit. :rolleyes: J .K. honey we will get it done.:heart:
 
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Supervisor42 said:
Just for clarity, step by step:
1. Turn crank until distributor rotor tab is pointing at I4 and pulley mark aligns with 0° on the timing tab.
2. Turn the crank counter-clockwise so the pulley mark is about 1" before the timing tab.
3. Remove the cam sprocket and rotate the cam clockwise until the #1 exhaust valve just finished closing.
4. Turn the crank clockwise so the pulley mark goes back where it was in step #1.
5. Install the cam sprocket.
6. Rotate the crank clockwise 2 rounds and verify the cam timing by watching the valve movements as the pulley mark approaches 0° and goes past it.
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Ok then ; got it. :thumbs:
 
Mr.Meer said:
Ok then ; got it. :thumbs:
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Hint: You can turn the cam easily after the sprocket is removed by putting the bolt back in loosely and grabbing the shank of the bolt and the index pin with slip-joint pliers.
 
Caribou said:
The first thing I'd do is to make sure you are getting spark. Next I'd make sure the plug wires are correct. Next the timing. I'm not much of a mechanic but that's a start. He probably has done all this. How long has the gas been sitting and was it stabilised?
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zoomzoom said:
It's gasket, not casket. ;)
I'm with Caribou on the steps but leaning toward it may be a timing issue.
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Bacpacker said:
Spark, timing, bad fuel. Top 3 items. Is it trying to run at all, or just cranking with nothing happening?
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Cnsper said:
Make sure the distributor is not off a few teeth. Before anything else I would first check for spark. If you have an old plug around attach it to a plug wire then lay it on the engine so it grounds then look for spark as you crank it over.

If it does not spark then it is something with the cap, plug wires or coil.

If it does spark then you have an issue with fuel or timing.

But since he used starting fluid I am leaning towards something with the spark. Even if timing was off it should do something.

Forgot, if it attempts to fire and does not start, if you get a backfire through the exhaust or carburetor it is timing.
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Curmudgeon said:
Need to know the specific engine and exactly what was done.
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Thanks to all of you, :huggs: :Thankyou: :thumbs::great::green man:
 
Meerkat said:
Lots of steam is comign out of it now that its finally waking up.
Hubby is gtinnign ear to ear.
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Remember the oil that was put in the cylinders to test the rings (shot out of sparkplug hole), all of it went into the exhaust system.
Glad to hear it is rejoining the living :woo hoo: .
 
phideaux said:
I knew all along that Supervisor would get it going.

Now get him to get your solar system going.

I know his abilities and generosity are:great:
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Oh no, YOU have far more experience on that than I do :p.
 
Supervisor42 said:
Oh no, YOU have far more experience on that than I do :p.
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I'm not as articulate as you .:p

Remember those batteries I drove to Alabama and you donated to me?
4 interstates ?

They are still perking , along with 4 others.
Years have passed and , just proves, proper care , they live almost forever .

Jim
 
Hubby will be back soon as he is threw piddling and driving the truck to building to pump up the tires. I bet it will feel good to him to drive it again.
I learned years ago nto to tell him he couldn't do something. He is a good mechanic even if just shade tree with some professinal experience.so glad he had yalls help with this one it was a doosey.
I guess it helps him keep his mind off the lockup. Next is the boat again.
Do yall rememebr my bus ' Shorty ; ' had a7.3 diesel' on PS? He got it going plus painted it and did inside and I helped lot with that one .I have never missed a pocession like I do my bus makes me sick plus I gave it away for $3600. Buyer rove it to Denver Co. without a problem last I heard still going.we got it from a school bus sale it was ill yellow full of seats.
 
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Well Mr. Super v , you were right again and my HERO too.:Thankyou:



I ran it an hr. and it never passed 1/3 on temp but took about 20 min. of running then quit steaming. Drove it around the yard , checked tire pressure and it was fine.

Gonna fine tune it now and will be good to go.:thumbs:
 
Mr.Meer said:
Well Mr. Super v , you were right again and my HERO too.:Thankyou:



I ran it an hr. and it never passed 1/3 on temp but took about 20 min. of running then quit steaming. Drove it around the yard , checked tire pressure and it was fine.

Gonna fine tune it now and will be good to go.:thumbs:
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You're welcome.
Keep an eye on the coolant level in the radiator, not the reservoir. You know how to do this without burning the hide off of your arm.
If the head is warped or cracked, it will consume coolant from the radiator and replace it with air.
Keep it full of coolant and it will run until the cows come home.

BTW, you passed your certification exam on a level-9 engine.
I'd mail you a certificate, but I'm retired.:confused:
 
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